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Thread: 110 Precision (6.5CM) bolt lift and cocking pin Qs

  1. #1
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    110 Precision (6.5CM) bolt lift and cocking pin Qs


    I have a Savage 110 precision in 6.5CM, just shy of 900 rounds through it, and jesus this bolt lift is rough. It's been rough from the get-go, and I know this is a common issue that generally comes with the territory, but it almost seems like mine has gotten worse (that could just be in my head though). Kind of feels more like hanging up than a heavy bolt lift.

    Does it really take that much force to lift the bolt/cock it for the rest of you, and how have you approached this? The real hang up is probably the last fifth or so of the throw. Some things that I've read or came to mind:


    • Bolt lift kit- thoughts on this/if it's worth it? Haven't taken apart the bolt yet but doesn't seem too difficult on these. Any suggestions on kits that standout from the others? I've only really looked at Desh



    • Lubricant/grease- not sure how much effect this would have here in general, but opinions I've been finding are all over the map here. I've only done very light amounts of grease (shooter's choice or TW25B) on the lugs previously, and imagine at some point a bit of lubricant oil has prob ended up on the rails they slide on. Some talk about greasing the ramp/cocking cam where pin slides against; that seems like it might cause more harm than good? Flip side, if it's too gunked up maybe needs a blast of gun scrubber or MCW25 or something? I've got breakfree CLP too but don't use that stuff much and not sure that really belongs anywhere here in the first place.



    • Screws- heard some people mention front action screw, or even scope base screws, as a possible factor. Still need to play around with the torque here and see how it's affecting things, but have any of you experienced this and what are you running the torque at? Action screws I run somewhere around 50-55 I believe, which I thought was pretty normal. My scope base has actually come loose twice; once right from the factory (seems somewhat normal) and once a tiny bit about 100 rounds ago. I've got the EGW 20MOA rail that comes w/ the precision model; torqued to 20 in/lbs this last time per their website, although just now realizing that there may have been some loctite on there from the first time it came loose... so maybe I've over-torqued technically. Hm. How much would you torque if using loctite do you think?


    Another thing I noticed is that the cocking pin on mine doesn't stick straight up perpendicular to the bolt when in the cocked position- it's actually angled back slightly, almost like it's getting pushed to that angle by the pressure or something. Not 45deg or anything like that, but definitely noticeable. Couldn't find much on this, any idea if it's normal or possibly a problem? Pin on my Savage 12 (.223, old model w/ staggered feed internal mag) is like that too, but to a much, much lesser degree than this 110.

    Speaking of that 12, the bolt runs buttery smooth compared to this 110, and the trigger pull is also way lighter. I've been trying to get the 110 adjusted down to that pull, but every time I get it down to a certain point, the accutrigger blade (?) trips and locks up the trigger (for lack of much better wording). Maybe just the luck of the draw here, or accutriggers used to better back in the day... Would be great to have the bolt even halfway near as smooth as the 12 too.

    That ended up being long as hell, my bad. Any and all thoughts/experience appreciated though. Thanks guys

  2. #2
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    Yes, bolt lift is a problem on all the 110s. There are a several things done to combat its unwanted presence. The first I tell people is a new longer bolt handle. This is simple physics. A longer lever! Remember what Archimedes said: “Give me a lever long enough & fulcrum on which to place it, and I shall move the World!” Also, Lift kits do work well. Some better than others. None are complete a fix on their own however. I’m thinking you have the new style firing pin. Is this correct? There is a member here, Grimstod Desh. He makes lift kits for the new style firing pin. Here’s his site. https://deshind.com/product/savage-b...ring-pin-2019/ I make really nice ones for the old style firing pin & give them out to people here. But I only do it once in a awhile & don’t have any currently. Polishing is also good. The edges of the ramp that the cocking piece pin ride against. And smoothing the little tip at the top of the ramp. But take care here if you do. With the cocking piece pin being slightly slanted. Yes, this is normal as the hole is beveled for easy insert. Now, on the old style, adjustable firing pins, the cocking piece can be tapped 1/4-28 all the way through and a set screw installed. This will keep the cocking piece pin straight up & down. Not sure on the new, 1-piece style pin.

    There is no one Magic fix. It’s a series of little things. If you look through my older threads you’ll see I’ve done a great deal of work to get mine where it’s at. I’ve gone as far as to machining a new Firing pin & found a resource for lighter Flat Wire FP springs. The result of my efforts is a 1 finger bolt lift. I have a video of that floating around here & on YouTube as well. If you search you’ll find tutorials on most things. And many threads answering questions like yours. I wouldn’t rush into doing anything. Take your time. Research, A LOT! I and others here didn’t get to where we are overnight after all.

    I have no doubt you’ll be able to get your 110 where you want it. Welcome to the Forum partner.

  3. #3
    Basic Member Robinhood's Avatar
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    To add on thing to Daves post, a lift kit really helps but sthe increased spring compression needs to be addressed. Read spacer or machining of the BAS. There exists a spring mod that takes it to the sweet spot but,,,,, thats not my trick to give. Good luck
    The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.

  4. #4
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    I have a 6.5CM 110 Elite Precision. The bolt was a chore to run and saying it was stiff doesn't really describe it fully. I put one of Grimstod Desh's bolt lift kits in, which as a thrust bearing and a spacer to maintain the right spring compression. I also changed the bolt handle out for a longer 110 BA Tactical bolt knob. $60 later, I can run my bolt with one finger. Huge difference and so much improvement from a couple quick fixes.

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