Model 29 pump info needed

[Chinook]

Greetings to all and hopes for a decent new year to you !

So after a number of months doing a little of this and that on a retail store ? Model 29 / "Ranger", I am finally putting it back together.
The pitting was moderate on barrel and receiver, so I had to go with a matte finish to hide the receiver pits. The wood had
the black curse to it. Minor pitting in the barrel, but I'm going to scrub it and see how it shoots, a liner "may" come later.

My problems are a few missing parts as it was a basket case when I picked it up.

1. Operating lock spring - 990120A. . . . . . see below ! solved
2. Cartridge cut-off ball - 990060A

Now as of this a.m. I did found a spring that can be / IS an excellent replacement. It is an AR15 bolt, ejector spring, that has the correct
diameter but long in length. Did an estimate of length needed and cut with a dremmel cut off wheel. Works just fine !

The cut-off ball is the bigger and last part needed. And this is where I need the help !
Steel balls are available . . . a new replacement part can be found.
I need the steel ball SIZE / Diameter.

If someone has one out, or can take their model 29 apart to get to the steel ball ... measure ( with a micrometer ) and let me know ? ? ? ?
I will be deeeply appreciative. Its like the last piece of the jig saw puzzle.

( suggestions on photo posting site )

Be safe out there !

[Sav22]

They are 3/16" and are available at hardware stores and bicycle shops, which often have them in bulk for about 5¢ each.

Have you checked the locking surfaces for any distortion? I've run into several of these that with the locking surface in the receiver damaged. I always suggest these be shot with standard velocity, or lighter. When the locking surface starts to distort metal is pushed down and this then keep the bolt from rising to the fully locked position which accelerates the damage until you can't get the action to close. These were introduced before Hi-Speed 22 ammunition and the early guns should definitely not be shot with it, they made changes for use with Hi-Speed in later guns, they did not change the lock-up much, it appears they just made changes to support the head of the cartridge more.

Here are some old photobucket pictures that show the locking surface (now under photobucket water marks).


Below is one with good locking surfaces, it was repaired by Savage after the introduction of Hi-Speed and has a new receiver (possibly due to locking surface damage?), it also has an early bolt with a later narrow Hi-Speed firing pin. The rest of the parts are all show a lot of wear.

They added a warning stamp to the barrel.

Here's an early Model 29 that was sent back to the factory after Hi-Speed was introduced, it has the same stamp added to the receiver -


Added- Here's a link to more information on the model 29's - https://www.24hourcampfire.com/ubbth...18/type/thread

[Chinook]

SAV22 . . . . excellent ! thanks for the info. Any chance I can get those pix emailed to me ?

And yes mine has some internal damage at top of receiver. Can't say it will get a factory repair at this point, but good to know how to avoid
further damage with slower ammo. This one is a K - 1959 date and has the " T " firing pin, no warning stamp.
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ( my bad on the date thing )
Along with keeping the power down, have you been removing the metal flow to permit the bolt to elevate and lock up.
The wear marks look to be caused by a dragging fire pin (cookie cut part) and the locking shoulders seems to be untouched. Same with shoulders on bolt
they look undamaged but the FP has a bit of wear on the ridge.

Have you had a FP out ? I pulled the FP spring and pin, but it seems something else is holding on ? Or is this no mans land, as those pins in the claws
look dreadful with blind ends. The FP is a bid hard to move and peening on the hammer end, again the cookie cut part issue.
Thought I'd take it out for a clean up.

Again Thanks for info !

[Sav22]

Chinook, the ones I find with damaged locking surfaces end up in a 'to look at later' group, I have a number of good ones to use - if I ever get a chance to shoot them! My thoughts are to find a bolt with good locking surfaces but some other problems and cut it off even with the rear of the locking lugs so I can put it in a gun with an empty case in the chamber, this would give access to use a punch & hammer to try and put the metal of the receiver back into place behind it. I'm still looking for a bolt I wouldn't mind cutting up (and I don't know it my idea would work anyway). If I removed metal, I would not be able to do that.

The K after the serial number has nothing to do with the date, the letter date codes started in 1949 and Model 29 production ended about 1938. The 'K' designates that it was a house brand and not Savage Arms marked, those had the letter 'L'. For a very short time they also used the letter 'M' for a Stevens marked version (some Model 75's, not seen often), but that didn't last long, later Stevens' versions also had a 'K'.

The firing pin is held in by a pin at the rear and a small piece of tube with the extractor spring in it at the front, you need to remove one extractor so you can pull that tube.

For pictures - right click on them, a box will popup, left click on 'open picture in new tab', open the tab and the picture will appear without the water mark, right click on it again, in the popup box, left click on 'save image as'.

[Chinook]

looking at the top photos, and marks in mine and reference the parts near by. i gotta say those scars / marks are from the firing pin.
Put a piece of clay up into it and worked the action, yep .... the stamped part edge is doing the damage. Smoothed the firing pin
back bone with a dremel cut wheel. The hammer isn't hitting it perfectly in line, so the hit slightly below centerline slams the back
of the FP upward hard. Can't really do much about it now, it locks up and there is still material left up there and I don't think
i'm gonna wear it out any time soon.