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Thread: Savage 12 FV

  1. #1
    Basic Member usmc69's Avatar
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    Savage 12 FV


    I have a quandary on my hands. I have a friend that literally knows nothing about firearms, but does shoot them well. He has bought a Savage Model 12 FV with a heavy barrel(?) in .223. He is going to buy a Vortex 6.5-20X44 scope for it *has a 30 MM tube). My question is what mounts and rings are you all using? TIA

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    Team Savage NF1E's Avatar
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    I have been using EGW picatiny rails on mine along with Leupold low MK 4 rings.

    Received my discharge from active duty in the Corps 1969. Semper Fi
    Semper Fi

    Sgt USMC 66-72

  3. #3
    Basic Member jpx2rk's Avatar
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    DNZ 1 piece mounts for me.

  4. #4
    Basic Member usmc69's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by NF1E View Post
    I have been using EGW picatiny rails on mine along with Leupold low MK 4 rings.

    Received my discharge from active duty in the Corps 1969. Semper Fi
    May try that set up. Thanks for the info.

    Belated Happy Birthday! Semper Fi! 1969-1993

  5. #5
    Basic Member usmc69's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jpx2rk View Post
    DNZ 1 piece mounts for me.
    Thank you for the information.

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    Basic Member hamiltonkiler's Avatar
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    Leupold 20moa rail and sig rings. In high.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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    Basic Member hamiltonkiler's Avatar
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  8. #8
    Basic Member usmc69's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hamiltonkiler View Post
    Leupold 20moa rail and sig rings. In high.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    Thank you.

  9. #9
    Team Savage wbm's Avatar
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    I have been using EGW picatiny rails
    +1.

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    You just cant go very far east of Stickmarsh, unless your house floats.
    Maybe Sebastian area?

  11. #11
    Basic Member usmc69's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by yobuck View Post
    You just cant go very far east of Stickmarsh, unless your house floats.
    Maybe Sebastian area?

    Yep, Grew up in Vero and joined the Corps. There are times when I wonder why we came back. Answer is family lives here.

    Shoot three days during the week at the County Range on CR 512. Come by and ask for AJ.

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    I have the same gun and scope and used egw rail and low seekins rings

  13. #13
    Basic Member usmc69's Avatar
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    Thanks for the info.

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    Hate to rain on the parade and, up until a few weeks ago, I would have suggested med-low rings for a 12 FV (I have two of them) to accommodate the 44mm front objective on a higher power scope just to ensure that the front objective is not too close to the barrel.
    Recently, I found that the general rules for ring height may not apply to big people with really round faces.

    My range buddy was having a problem with getting behind his scope with a target rifle so I loaned him a 42 mm front-objective Sightron with extra-high rings that I had used on a chassis with a stock that was straight back without the drop that most bolt actions have.
    He couldn't get comfortable behind my extra high ring scope either. He had to press his cheek so hard into the stock just to see the image at high magnification.
    He is a really big guy with a very round face and I measured his eye to the edge of his cheek and found it was much wider than mine.
    When standing he could see through the scope but when shooting from a bench, he couldn't get his eye behind the optical plane when he had a cheek weld.
    The eventual solution was to raise the entire rifle up on the bench so he didn't have to bend over as far and get his wide cheek in the way.

    So my answer now is "It depends on the person, and I would be wary if the person is larger than the norm".
    I'm not sure anymore that getting a general consensus is the answer to what ring height to choose for any particular person, especially if the person's size is far from the norm.

    Also, the higher the maximum power of the scope, the smaller the optical focal plane is, so what works at 6X may not be adequate at 20X.
    Even if you can get to the wider optical plane at the lowest magnification, you may not be comfortable at the highest magnification when the focal plane becomes much more concentrated and you have to move you head a bit to find the optical plane.

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    Yeah I was gonna say, this is about as good as asking people what their favorite food is! It’s just SO subjective. A dozen people may answer, and you’ll get a dozen different answers! How do you weed out good from bad? Research. My advice is not brand specific, rather quality & material. Stay away from Weaver & standard bases. Go Picatinny. Also, a 1-piece rail is more rigid than 2-piece. More rigid is a good thing here. Another important issue is material. Steel is good, but heavy. Billet Aluminum is awesome. 6061 is good, 7075 is MUUUUCH better!! I would stress the rail should absolutely be 7075-t6, or Titanium(best material) like the Murphy Precision rail.(my next choice very shortly) Also with rings. I’d stay away from 6061 rings & always recommend 7075. They are worth it. If using a 1piece scope mount, 6061 is ok because there is so much more material. I still rather have 7075 used, but there are only a few 1-piece mounts made of the higher grade Aluminum. Like the Spuhr & Tier One mounts, which are cream of the crop. But both are in the $400 neighborhood! (No Thanks!) The Warne Skyline mount is 7075, & looks promising. It can be had for just under $200. Although I have seen some negative reviews about it’s machining. I have been using an ADM Recan 1piece, Picatinny mount for several years now. Its a QD style and works well. If I was doing it again, I’d go with 7075 rings now. The last point is precision machining quality. Which is why I’ve stayed with my ADM mount. It’s the lesser 6061 Aluminum, but again, because it’s a 1-piece mount it has the extra mass to aid rigidity. And the machining quality is superb. Remember, a scope mounting setup has only two purposes. Firstly (and the only thing that really matters), is holding the Glass precisely and as rigid as possible! The second point is looks. Now, many people say they don’t care about looks...with statements like “I could care less how it looks, as long as it performs!” But, this is a big, fat LIE! Of COURSE we care how are rig look! Anyone who says otherwise is a damn liar! Very simply though, it should not be the ONLY, or even number ONE draw. However, a wonderful thing in today’s world is that rails, mounts & rings are FAR superior in performance to yester-years Redding/Leupold “standard” and “all over the place” sizing Weaver styles! They look good while giving great performance.

    There are enough choices you don’t have to go with a brand just because someone others use said brand. Research what’s out there and choose by what you are drawn to. Chances are it will be one of the well known... Leupold, Seekins, Nightforce, TPS, Warne, Zeiss, Talley, American Rifle... etc, etc, and the list goes on & on...

  16. #16
    Basic Member usmc69's Avatar
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    My friend has been at Disney this pat week. He has been given several options to buy for rings and mounts. Next week he should bring everything to the range and we will get him set up. Will keep all posted as to what he buys and how it works.

  17. #17
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    While I agree that going with better mount and rings can make a difference....for fun shooting or such with a .223 just about any mounts and rings will be fine. I do have a weaver rail and some cheap rings (I don't know what brand they are) on my .223.

    If you have a lighter rifle with heavier recoiling cartridge, or you are in competition, then do go with the more expensive options.

    And 20MOA rail is not needed for the .223. Realistic range for shooting is only 600yd or so. I have shot mine at 1000 but it is a crap shoot depending on the wind.

  18. #18
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    Good points Charlie. As you are aware, there is a difference between a beater rifle that gets used once or twice a year for the sole purpose of adding another trophy to the w..., I mean MEAT in the freezer....(yeah, that’s the ticket), and a rifle you take pride in. One being a pure tool and the other a custom rifle you’ve built yourself or even one you’ve wanted for a time. A rifle you truly enjoy shooting & even cleaning! Now I absolutely do NOT simply confuse Quality solely on High Price. I’m not big on the terms “you get what you pay for”, or “buy once, cry once”; not in every situation. There is a HUGE difference between “Inexpensive”, “Affordable”, and “CHEAP”! High quality doesn’t always need to be the higher price. I’ve flat out PROVEN this with the AR15. I do all my ARs with 80% Billet Lowers & use many parts of much HIGHER quality than many of the Top Tier companies. Companies like Knight’s Armament, LMT, Larue Tact... rifles sold for $2500-$3000, when mine are built for not even HALF that! But I digress.

    I do agree with the statement, buy the best you can afford. However, I can not stress enough why research is so valuable. Because that statement does not always mean buy the most expensive. Unfortunately, it gets misconstrued all too often.

  19. #19
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    EGW picatinny rails exclusively, and Weaver Quad lock, or six hole tactical rings.

  20. #20
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    I agree about the price and other stuff. That's why I buy Weaver stuff frequently. When I did have real 'beaters' that I took hunting they frequently wore Tasco stuff, mounts, rings and scopes. Never missed an animal due to them.

    The only rilfe I have spent any amount of money on is my 12BVSS. It has a Warne rail and EGW rings.

  21. #21
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    I've got Vortex precision high rings on mine. No issues with the rings beyond the fact that I should have bought mediums. I have to bring my comb up higher than I want to in order to get behind the scope well. Eh, lesson learned, the rifle I bought the rings and scope for originally I thought I might hit the 50mm bell on. It didn't, but I never replaced the rings.

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