Yep!Originally Posted by Fuj'
powderburnz, at this point in Your shooting experience, My recommendation is go with a Drop In Straight 6mmBR. This, IMO, will give You the experience necessary to move forward later, in areas like custom spun barrels, and formal competition.
Since You “only compete with Yourself”, what would You consider victory? You will be amazed what You can do with a straight 6mmBR, out to 1,000yds.
Good Luck With Your Decision
Yep....or even a bigger six like the 6 or 243 Winchester. I like having regular OTC brass. But the 25 creedmoor sure looks good with the bergers that are out now.
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
Brux
Stainless MTU contour
27 “ 8 twist
Muzzle tapped 5/8-24
Planning on using Erik Cortinas EC tuner brake
Lapua brass
Berger 108’s
So I have a box of 6BR Lapua brass and a no-go. I do not have a go gauge. Using a comparator measuring about 50 pieces all were .005 shorter than the no-go. Realizing there’s a difference lot to lot and I’m sure this virgin brass is probably a bit shorter than my die and the go gauge that I don’t have, can I set my headspace with the virgin brass as my go? Or should I put a piece of tape on the brass?
Bump⬆️
Yes, you can use the brass as your “Go” gauge. And you already have a “No Go”, correct? Just be careful, as you can easily compress the brass.
My preferred method has been a “Go” gauge & then using shims I make from feeler gauges. .002”, .003”. Works really well.
Yes I do have a no-go. Do you think I should add some tape to the brass to be in the safe side? I’m sure virgin brass is a tad shorter than a go gauge??
I wouldn’t worry about it. Because you have the NoGo. As long as the brass loads easily, & the NoGo doesn’t fully engage, it will be fine.
Also, make sure you aren’t compressing the brass. Brass can compress under force. You want it to load with ease. So the bolt handle simply falls.
So now I’m wondering while installing the barrel, loctite or no loctite?
Nah... it's not needed. I like the barrel VERY tight! Usually 50ft lbs. this last time, I torqued the nut to 75ft lbs.! I'm not saying to copy me. I'm just saying what I do. But even at the typical torque...(I can't even remember it off hand...like 40ft lbs or something?) In any case, even at the lower torque vale, the barrel isn't going anywhere. Trust me! It's much like a bolt tightened with a spring under tension. The bolt can't loosen because the force of the spring. Same idea with the Savage barrel & nut. They are counter loading one another. It's a shame so many are against it. Really is a brilliant idea. Interesting so that customs are doing it now because there is no accuracy loss to anyone except maybe the top level shooters.
Off the shelf Savage rifles have been known to have the barrel nuts super tight from the factory. Think installed by a GO RILLA!!
Once loosened and re installed, a good "rap" with a steel hammer on the nut wrench will get it tight, enough that I have never had one come loose. Never bothered to use a torque wrench. I DO mark the nut to the action so I can see if it ever moves. Never happens.
And something else to consider. Factory loaded 6 BR ammo is pretty hard to come by and anybody that gets it is probably only after the brass?
Think about that when you set the head space. Set it on the snug side so you don't have to move the brass, when resizing, any more than needed.
And the only thing to add to the barrel/nut threads is a good grease. Just enough that both the nut and barrel spin free. Loctite is bad Ju ju.
Loctite has been known to run/ease into places that you don't expect THEN, you're in a world of hurt. Plan ahead.
Oz never gave nothing to the Tin Man, that he didn't already have.
So the barrel install went awesome guys, thanks for the help. Now on to my next series of beginner questions. In my 308 days I acquired all my brass 3 ways. Factory loads, the range and bought used. All federal. I learned trimming, turn and weighing. So now I have new 6br Lapua. Am I wrong to say my first load/firing is almost a waste? Can’t size it if course, can’t really discern any real info from the brass prior to the first firing? Neck turn maybe?, although Lapua has about .001 thickness variance, not bad but on the 308 I had it perfect so .001 seems bad to me. Chime in please.
Glad everything went well for you. I wouldn’t trim it... don’t think you’ll really see much difference. But hey, if you feel the need go for it.
I understand where you‘re coming from. Feels kinda “BLAH” having something so good handed to you, as a reloader. At least I have some feelings like that. Although for me it’s accuracy based solely. I really just enjoy reloading. I enjoy making the brass & prepping it. But I actually use Lake City primarily. For my 223 reloads, & especially for my 260 REM.
6BR is great to fool with. Small primer so you can run the pressure up and it's a short 243. Because I change barrels a lot, I use index marks and not much tension. You will have trouble with the 6BR working through a magazine. Easy to tune, easy on components, accurate and just plain fun to shoot. Got three, Encore rifle, Encore pistol and a Savage/McGowan barrel.
Thanks for the replies. Still kind of interested in everyone’s thoughts on my comments/questions on brass 3 posts back. Thanks
The times I have fired Lapua brass (.223 and .308) for the first time it shoots as well as later reloads. After firing you can decide if you want to neck turn or not. I'd wait and see what the runout is before I trimmed anything.
I do not shoot benchrest quality groups but I haven't neck sized anything since I had a .30Herrett.
So am I good to just load without neck sizing mandrels which is what I usually do?
That's how I did it. Just treat the new brass as full length sized and ready to go.
Just for grins I do a test fit in the chamber before I get too deep in the process.
So the neck ID on the brass is .242. That surprised me. .001 neck tension out of the isn’t much!
New Lapua brass is usually consistant and ready to load out of the box.
The first load will not be a waste.
You headspaced the barrel to the new brass so that factor is out.
The barrel break in might play a little factor is the first few shots but I think you will be pleased with the initial results.
If you want to, size the brass. It will not hurt and it might make you feel better about the first load.
I have full length sized, necked sized, and just loaded new 6BR Lapua brass--all is good.
Enjoy your new 6BR
Jack
Get 100 Lapua brass and never look back. I use a collet die for the bolt gun and a body die and collet for the Encore's. I try to put them all on one hole , so I spend time trying to precision reload.
Another question as I am looking to go from 243 to 6BR. Will the 243 4 round magazine work with the 6BR? As I understand it the mag for the 308 is the same one used in the 243.
Neck turning is nice but not required, I will run all my new brass through a .241 mandrel to ensure the necks are round, chamfer as you normally would and dry lube the inside prior to seating. Free bore will have a say in what bullets give you the flexibility to jam or jump, in my Savage Criterion barrel NSS uses a .93 FB that worked well for 90ish to 107, later as the throat eroded slightly108 Bergers took me to 1000 yard bench rest. If you have the reamer print ? You should notice the FB and case length of 1.570 defined and 6br do not grow very fast so you have plenty of time to order a Wilson trimmer and fired case holder prior to setting and trimming to 1.550 ish. I do not weigh each lapua case rather maintain lot seperation. For dies contact HARRELS precision, they will walk you through their process. Your first loads downrange are an opportunity to be amazed.
Hope this helps
Thanks guys! Now just trying to find powder and primers. Ha!
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