Oryx CAN be milled out to accept 3.85 CIP Magazine. Its beautiful 110FCP 300PRC

[CFJunkie]

nathantc,

Sorry to intrude in your interesting interchange, but both my Oryx chassis mounted on 12FV Savage actions (.223 and 6.5mm Creedmoor) are torqued to 60 in.-lbs. and they both shoot great.
They are mounted on Sinclair Gen 3 F-Class bi-pods using a rear bag shot from a bench and my results are in both the Ammunition and Reloading threads and the 110-Series Bolt-Action Threads.
The Sinclair bipods don't rotate once clamped down so I can't speak to the impact of a bi-pod that moves while you are setting up.

The Oryx torque recommendation is 60 in.-lbs so the comments about Savage actions not being torqued that tight are not based on knowledge of Oryx stocks.

Don't give up on your new barrel just yet.
You obviously know what you are doing, and it looks to me that you have an outstanding set up. But it might help to check out a couple of little things that could be causing you problems with a new rifle with just a little time behind the trigger. Not every problem is solved by modifying equipment. Set-up consistency can eliminate a lot of shooter induced variations.

Consider that the Oryx stock has little to no drop in the stock (like a recoil tube AR) so if you have the rifle mounted low on the bench or low when you are shooting prone, you may be hunched over.
That would create real problems trying to get a consistent set up.
And variations in your set up will move the POI around, even if you think you are aiming at exactly the same point.

1) Moving in or out on the scope could be moving your POI up or down respectively. I have measured that about 1/8 inch change in eye relief can move your POI by 1/4 inch. It is that sensitive.

2) Also, if you are not on the optical plane of the scope, you could be moving the POI to the right or left.
(To avoid such problems, I check my position before each shot by slightly moving my head back from the scope eye piece until I see the black ring around the scope image.
If the black ring is concentric, I know I am on the optical plane and just move back until the ring goes away making sure it stays concentric until it just disappears. Stopping when the black ring just disappears also eliminates moving in too far on the scope and helps with eliminating item the problem described in item 1)

3) And lastly, if you are seeing the scope move off your POA after a shot, probably to the right, you have the butt of the stock too far out of the notch in you shoulder.
The recoil is pushing your shoulder back and the barrel is moving to the right.
Even a slight movement during recoil actually moves the POI even though the bullet takes only about 1 millisecond to go down the barrel.

I hope this helps.

[nathantc]

nathantc,

Sorry to intrude in your interesting interchange, but both my Oryx chassis mounted on 12FV Savage actions (.223 and 6.5mm Creedmoor) are torqued to 60 in.-lbs. and they both shoot great.
They are mounted on Sinclair Gen 3 F-Class bi-pods using a rear bag shot from a bench and my results are in both the Ammunition and Reloading threads and the 110-Series Bolt-Action Threads.
The Sinclair bipods don't rotate once clamped down so I can't speak to the impact of a bi-pod that moves while you are setting up.

The Oryx torque recommendation is 60 in.-lbs so the comments about Savage actions not being torqued that tight are not based on knowledge of Oryx stocks.

Don't give up on your new barrel just yet.
You obviously know what you are doing, and it looks to me that you have an outstanding set up. But it might help to check out a couple of little things that could be causing you problems with a new rifle with just a little time behind the trigger. Not every problem is solved by modifying equipment. Set-up consistency can eliminate a lot of shooter induced variations.

Consider that the Oryx stock has little to no drop in the stock (like a recoil tube AR) so if you have the rifle mounted low on the bench or low when you are shooting prone, you may be hunched over.
That would create real problems trying to get a consistent set up.
And variations in your set up will move the POI around, even if you think you are aiming at exactly the same point.

1) Moving in or out on the scope could be moving your POI up or down respectively. I have measured that about 1/8 inch change in eye relief can move your POI by 1/4 inch. It is that sensitive.

2) Also, if you are not on the optical plane of the scope, you could be moving the POI to the right or left.
(To avoid such problems, I check my position before each shot by slightly moving my head back from the scope eye piece until I see the black ring around the scope image.
If the black ring is concentric, I know I am on the optical plane and just move back until the ring goes away making sure it stays concentric until it just disappears. Stopping when the black ring just disappears also eliminates moving in too far on the scope and helps with eliminating item the problem described in item 1)

3) And lastly, if you are seeing the scope move off your POA after a shot, probably to the right, you have the butt of the stock too far out of the notch in you shoulder.
The recoil is pushing your shoulder back and the barrel is moving to the right.
Even a slight movement during recoil actually moves the POI even though the bullet takes only about 1 millisecond to go down the barrel.

I hope this helps.

I agree with all of the info you said about the scope, eye relief, and parallax. The scope is setup correctly for my eye. I have it mounted as far from the buttpad as possible so as when i get lined up, if i move my head rearwards at all, even a little bit, that black ring starts to show. So i do the the same. set the rifle up holding its self, look threw the scope not touching the rifle at all. make damn sure parallax is good. Then when getting ready to aim i move my head out of my comfortable position rearward slightly to see the black ring, move forward till the ring is gone (comfortable position) keeping a mental note to know that my cheek has not moved on the cheek rest. Then make my shot.

Raising the rifle bipod legs when in prone was only more comfortable because the buttpad was where it should be. I could not hold as steady as the rest of me was not in a relaxed position. Lowering it back down with the addition of the adjustable butt pad adapter has made it 100% comfortable. Recoil pad is now where it should be with me completely relaxed and comfortable. This im sure will help. Also there is an odd thing with this trigger where the safety blade has a really stiff spring, more so than the trigger pull weight. Not sure how that is effecting things but its not as natural to me as my other two savage accu triggers and this is their "target" model.

So for the time being i need to find a lighter spring for that safety blade, wait a lil longer for my anti-cant bubble level, and then actual comfortable weather so im not in such a hurry. I have a feeling with the new buttpad set up, and better weather ill improve on things. I fully agree trigger time is needed as i'm not used to this animal or 300 PRC. Today i shot my savage b22 22wmr and put a 5 shot group that was basically just one hole at 50 yards. But for some reason that trigger is simply better and it should not be. Its much more predictable. Predictable being the best word i can think of to describe it. Also there is 0 recoil so how its shouldered is far less important. or painful.

The 300 PRC started getting painful due to where the recoil pad landed on my shoulder in the prone position. It was to low, so only the upper corner made contact.

[CFJunkie]

Like I said, you obviously know what you are doing.
Sounds like you don't need any coaching.

I have nine Savage 110s and have 8 Varmint triggers and one Precision Target trigger (red blade).
The 8 Varmint triggers are set at 2 lbs and the Precision Target trigger is set at just over 1 lb.
All the safety blades simply move toward the trigger with almost no effort.
I suspect something is binding up your safety blade, if you even notice having to move it.

The only time I have ever noticed the safety blade was when I pressed it sideways instead of straight back.
With the trigger set light, it locks up the trigger - (a safety feature protecting against the trigger being hit from the side).

[nathantc]

Like I said, you obviously know what you are doing.
Sounds like you don't need any coaching.

I have nine Savage 110s and have 8 Varmint triggers and one Precision Target trigger (red blade).
The 8 Varmint triggers are set at 2 lbs and the Precision Target trigger is set at just over 1 lb.
All the safety blades simply move toward the trigger with almost no effort.
I suspect something is binding up your safety blade, if you even notice having to move it.

oh i don't know everything lol. constructive criticism is always welcome. This rifle im building to learn EXACTLY the things i clearly dont know well lol.
As for the trigger it does not seem to be binding, could be though. With the spring removed, it moves freely. The spring itself seems to stiff. I 100% forgot to take it apart and bring the spring with me to the hardware store this morning to see if i can find some replacements to use, cut, or modify to get it where its near unnoticeable. It only needs just enough to support the weight of the blade to catch the sear. I've thought of going aftermarket but i plan to do more than sit in a controlled environment. so i like the safety of the design. The day i was shooting those groups i had it trip while closing the bolt. Thought i had it tight enough that it would not. Guess i was wrong or the adjustment moved after firing. I have it set as light as possible without (or so i thought) it doing that when closing the bolt hard.

[CFJunkie]

With my varmint triggers, if they get much below 2 lbs or the adjustment nut gets loose (over 2000 rounds in my experience), they tend to get finicky and lock up if the bolt is closed hard or if I put even the slightest side pressure on the safety blade.
I now put some lock-tite on the adjustment screw to keep it at 2 lbs. Haven't had any adjustments get loose since I started doing that.

The Precision Target trigger (red blade) can be adjusted down to 6 oz. It came from the factory at 10 oz.
But I found that if I shot that trigger at 10 oz. first, I would jerk the varmint triggers or if I shot the varmint triggers first, the precision trigger was just too light to shoot consistently.
Turns out that 1.2 lbs is just about right on the precision trigger so I can shoot two different rifles during the same session and not notice the difference.

I can imagine if, on any of my rifles, the blade was harder to pull than the trigger itself, I would have problems getting comfortable with it and probably couldn't be consistent.

[nathantc]

I can imagine if, on any of my rifles, the blade was harder to pull than the trigger itself, I would have problems getting comfortable with it and probably couldn't be consistent.

dry fire with the safety blade removed is so damn nice. I'm sure it will be ok once i get a lighter spring in there.

[CFJunkie]

It might not be the spring, something, maybe a burr, could be binding up the blade movement, especially of the trigger pull is great without the blade.

[Dave Hoback]

That’s why I stone them in a jig. Keeps a perfect angle & makes the surface completely flat. I make sure not to go past the case hardening of the metal. I use a completely different new spring with a step turned set screw that acts as an overtravel stop. The problem is spring rate. I played with different springs for a couple years. I know people like making fun...but anyone that feels my trigger is quite surprised. It feels like a very good 2-stage. Feels nicer to my finger than any aftermarket. But, they are a love it or hate it setup. I understand people not liking the safe action design. But I prefer them for the same reason I dislike external thumb safeties on pistols. With a Safe Action trigger the weapon can NOT fire unless the trigger is pulled.

[nathantc]

With a Safe Action trigger the weapon can NOT fire unless the trigger is pulled.

To bad you aren't closer. might save me a lot of time with making shims, and picking out springs. Also i would love a photo of your overtravel set up. Probably pretty self explanatory.

As for the quote, that is 100% the main reason i shy away from an aftermarket trigger. If the rifle was only going to be a range toy, i would try some triggers. Being as i plan to hunt, with other people, i rather use my booger hook as an absolute safety. Hell i dont even use the actual safety on any firearm i own, except my beretta, i use it for the decocking feature.

[nathantc]

using a click counter (press button and it keeps count) 200 trigger pulls of trouble free dry fire practice this morning. Swapped trigger with a different one from a project rifle i recently picked up. Seems the smith that worked on that trigger messed up the angle on the trigger that catches the sear. It will never hold like it was. With each trigger pull it was starting to get worse, and got to the point it was trip just sitting there while i was aiming. Now its 100% reliable, just harder than i like. So i'm researching the Jard 100% drop in trigger that replaces sear and all. Re adjusting the scope location, to correct eye relief (i was correcting me, not the rifle), a slight change in cheek rest was also needed with the new adjustable but pad modifaction. And some help from a link shared with me on snipershide, im now holding on target before, during and after the trigger pull better than i have in my life. Now its a matter of unlearning what is basically muscle memory doing things wrong, to make this new way of gripping the rifle feel "natural" to me.

https://www.snipershide.com/precisio...e-firing-hand/

Here is my practice setup/location for dry fire. For live fire i move the truck and trailer out into the pasture for obvious safety reasons. Its is the most stable thing i have available to me that is over the grass enough to see the target. I lay an old comforter down over the deck when shooting for comfort reasons. Posting these photos to give an idea.

[CFJunkie]

Glad you got your trigger problems resolved.

You might see if there is a Precision Target Trigger (red blade) available on this site.
The red blade triggers can be set down to 6 oz., although I would suspect that setting it that light would make the trigger to be sensitive to lateral press on the blade or just hard bolt closures. I didn't see any sensitivity when set at 10 oz.
My Varmint triggers can be set to 1.5 lbs. work great at 2 lbs, but when one had an adjustment screw get loose after about 2,000 rounds, it got down to 1.5 lbs and got too sensitive to lateral pressure and bolt closures. Resetting to 2 lbs and a bit of loc-tite solved the problem and it never happened again even after another 2,500 rounds.

[nathantc]

got too sensitive to lateral pressure and bolt closures.

that is where the issue lies. Im wanting a pull weight of about 1lb. But i also want it to be realistically safe. I do plan on hunting with this rifle out at longer ranges in the future. That being said, i only close the bolt when im getting ready to fire. I trust the open bolt more than any safety. So far, i've never seen an accutrigger properly function under 2lbs. Not saying its impossible. Also those red bladed trigger sell in the used market for more than they are worth "TO ME". I just worry id be buying someone else's mistake or problem, then be stuck with it. IDK, but this is the trigger im researching. Not much out there on it, from what i see, not many people ditch the accutrigger. I to love it, just not so much for this build. I love the safety it provides, but hate the savage sear design for lightweight reliability.

looking at getting the 7-12 ounce version.
https://jardinc.com/jard-savage-cent...trigger-system

[Robinhood]

I have a suggestion and I subscribe to grens post #69. Set your phone camera up to video you pulling the trigger with live rounds. If you like to yank off a box or more get a creedmoor. A gun like that will kill your timing and form shooting a box of twenty. I also bet that bullet will settle down as it nears 300 plus meters. Save your brass and I might make the 2.5 hour trip over there to visit one day and we can figure something out.

[nathantc]

I have a suggestion and I subscribe to grens post #69. Set your phone camera up to video you pulling the trigger with live rounds. If you like to yank off a box or more get a creedmoor. A gun like that will kill your timing and form shooting a box of twenty. I also bet that bullet will settle down as it nears 300 plus meters. Save your brass and I might make the 2.5 hour trip over there to visit one day and we can figure something out.

oh i am saving all my brass. Next things ill be buying is reloading equipment and learning to reload on this round. Figure 100 rounds is a good start. Im down to 60 rounds. Sold my 6.5 creedmoor a while back when i could not figure out the feed issues, sadly i now know how easily that could have been solved. So its this, and my 7.62x39 savage axis i was using to better learn and understand MOA as the SWFA 10x on it, and the strike eagle on this, are both in MOA. I stopped shooting he 7.62x39 due to biden and his retardation. Might be rebarreling as i will not pay 308 price for x39. But yes, you would be welcome if you ever wanted to make that trip. At least there would be no range fees lol.

[Dave Hoback]

I agree with Robin. Take advantage of his offer Nate. A couple hours with Robin & he’ll have your issues sorted.

[nathantc]

got my issues sorted out. turns out this rifle/chassis set up really likes 50 inch lbs on the action screws. Seems groups open up anywhere above that and anywhere lighter than 30 inch lbs.
Adjustable recoil pad and the MASSIVE new muzzle brake help drastically. With the scope at 25 power, at 100 yards i can watch milk jugs explode in the scope. Never have i been able to see that on anything larger than a .243. Recoil is amazingly managed now. Honestly the recoil isnt much different than my 7.62x39 savage i built. With the exception of a gentle push. It 100% took away the smack on the shoulder i felt before the brake. Recoil is there, just "different" so to speak. Much more pleasurable. Or maybe the 3/4 lb muzzle brake settled the harmonics to agree with this load. Advertised as 350 grams but i swear its a full 1 lb when in my hands. Anyway thanks for all the suggestions and help. Got the rifle dialed in and functioning 100%. Last thing to do is make up my mind on the jard trigger or deal with the heavy accutrigger.

[Dave Hoback]

I wouldn’t want to be anywhere near the side of that going off. “Holy SHOCKWAVE Batman!”

Looks good Nate. Glad it’s worked out for you.

[nathantc]

I wouldn’t want to be anywhere near the side of that going off. “Holy SHOCKWAVE Batman!”

Looks good Nate. Glad it’s worked out for you.

lol yeah my dad was about 6' to the left of me. (ear muffs) and said it felt like someone slapped him in the face lol. Cant leave loose ammo, ball cap, or well, pretty much anything next to me when i fire. That said, this rifle will never see a gun range so that should never matter. Serious recoil reduction and i love it.

[Dave Hoback]

I do miss that. Living in Arizona...my backyard was damn near my range! Here in SE Pennsylvania I’m screwed! We do have quite a bit of BLM land. And Pa. maintains free outdoor ranges for hunters or those with a range pass($35/year). But I have to travel almost 2 hours just for 300yds. MAX. There are several 1000yd ranges through the state. Again though, they are not close to me. And besides costing a couple hundred to join(can’t just shoot there), each one has it’s own little “Boys Club” & politics to match! Gets old.

[nathantc]

I do miss that. Living in Arizona...my backyard was damn near my range! Here in SE Pennsylvania I’m screwed! We do have quite a bit of BLM land. And Pa. maintains free outdoor ranges for hunters or those with a range pass($35/year). But I have to travel almost 2 hours just for 300yds. MAX. There are several 1000yd ranges through the state. Again though, they are not close to me. And besides costing a couple hundred to join(can’t just shoot there), each one has it’s own little “Boys Club” & politics to match! Gets old.

I dont do ranges, or group hunts. Its hard enough to fine one person who knows how to properly handle a firearm and understands tactics and safety let a lone a group. I just dont have that much faith in people. Especially not the gear queer mall ninja types i always encounter at gun shops and ranges. I prefer the outdoors and solace