Oryx CAN be milled out to accept 3.85 CIP Magazine. Its beautiful 110FCP 300PRC

[nathantc]

Same with scopes. We can’t all spend $2K-$4K on Glass. Some of us have a pretty strict budget of under $1K. What’s sad are those who shit on that.


Ahh... so now I guess I’m “playing” the part of a Gunsmith?

Must mean I’m “playing” at being a Knifemaker because I don’t pound on garbage steel with a hammer & anvil, huh? Because everyone knows a “FORGED” knife is the best & only custom knife, right?

I have yet to use my Strike Eagle 5-25x56 firing live rounds, but since mounted to the rifle, lying prone on my trailer deck, getting it focused properly to my eye. I'm not regretting it just yet. Did a basic tracking test using a yardstick and plumbob. Not exactly perfect or scientific but it was 100% spot on as far as i could tell. The farthest i've looked thru it is 488 yards at a tree. Beautiful clear sunny day, i can see the tree bark as if i were standing there. All of that said, i still want the Leupold MK5HD im saving for. I think this optic (if it holds up) is 100% worth the $700 i spent on it. I, in no way, Expect it to be a MK5 in 5-25x56. Nope, not at all. $700 vs $2,700 (local prices) is a massive difference. Just like i would not expect the center point scope from walmart for $80 to be on par with my Strike Eagle.
Now do i expect my savage barreled action ($1,100 invested) to be on par with a custom action, custom barrel, custom trigger a close to $3000 or more. No, no i do not. I do however, i do know you would be hard pressed to buy a barreled action, on a trued action, that has a very high probability of being less than MOA for $1,100 anywhere else.

[yobuck]

Same with scopes. We can’t all spend $2K-$4K on Glass. Some of us have a pretty strict budget of under $1K. What’s sad are those who shit on that.


Ahh... so now I guess I’m “playing” the part of a Gunsmith?


Must mean I’m “playing” at being a Knifemaker because I don’t pound on garbage steel with a hammer & anvil, huh? Because everyone knows a “FORGED” knife is the best & only custom knife, right?

Have you ever bought a scope on Ebay Dave?
Because thats where many of mine came from.
On my 4 long range hunting guns, 3 wear old Leupold scopes.
A 3.5x10 vari x 3, a straight 12x vari x 3 and an 8.5 x25 with the varmit hunter reticle, all bought used.
I own only one Nightforce scope and althought it is a better scope than the one it replaced, i wish i hadmy old one back and the cash in my pocket.
I have no doubt bought more than 50 used spotting scopes on ebay, most of which were the very expensive old Bushnells.
You know what Dave? the problem here is that you dont know what the f—- your talking about.

[nathantc]

Have you ever bought a scope on Ebay Dave?
Because thats where many of mine came from.
On my 4 long range hunting guns, 3 wear old Leupold scopes.
A 3.5x10 vari x 3, a straight 12x vari x 3 and an 8.5 x25 with the varmit hunter reticle, all bought used.
I own only one Nightforce scope and althought it is a better scope than the one it replaced, i wish i hadmy old one back and the cash in my pocket.
I have no doubt bought more than 50 used spotting scopes on ebay, most of which were the very expensive old Bushnells.
You know what Dave? the problem here is that you dont know what the f—- your talking about.

do you have any idea how many of those Leupolds you see on ebay are actually fakes. And i mean 100% fake, not just packaged wrong or mislabeled. Not exactly where i would trust my money on glass. But you seem to know more than the rest of us.

[Dave Hoback]

Uh huh.... sure thing yobuck. I guess I don’t know what the F I’m talking about...yadda, yadda, yadda. While you’re literally showing YOUR arse to everyone. So good luck with that.

BTW: “YOUR” is the possessive. “YOU’RE” is the contraction of You Are, which I believe you meant.

[nathantc]

Uh huh.... sure thing yobuck. I guess I don’t know what the F I’m talking about...yadda, yadda, yadda. While you’re literally showing your arse to everyone. So good luck with that.

crazy part is,
you were defending this guy in my inbox when he started this rant.

[nathantc]

My levels came in (ordered precision levels) got the scope mounted as level to the rifle bore as humanly possible. Just waiting on my scope mounted level. Scope rail, mount, and rings are all properly torqued, Action screws torqued at 60 inch pounds. Just about ready to see how she shoots.

Magazine issue solved. Feeding issues solved but caused an ejection issue (new parts on the way). My fault. I filed a bit to much off the ejector getting the feed issue corrected. Now has weak ejection.

The rifle is just about ready though and im not going to lie, im getting impatient. Cool thing to note on THIS Strike Eagle, the reticle is exactly level when the upper turret is dead level. Checked by projecting the reticle onto a wall, and by hanging a plumbob at 100 yards.

[nathantc]

tried to get a rough zero while i wait for my scope level. I think one of two things is messing me up here.
1-i have no way of knowing for sure if i canted the rifle between shots. Platform, hill side, and target were all unlevel so i have nothing to go on.
2-the monopod i chose is brand name garbage from sako. Folds under recoil and is very unstable. Could have also been the cause

Each shot from my perspective was very stable, i was sure of each shot. The bottom sting is me getting on zero or close enough to get started. The 3 shot group at the top was me aiming at the very point of the red bar. 1.5" group is absolutely unacceptable regardless of ammo. Ammo used is Hornady match 300PRC 225g.

Im betting the monopod and lack of knowing if im canting hurt me here, but im pretty sure there is more to it than that. I hear some barrels need some breaking in to shoot. I personally have only seen this to be true of 22lr.

Bottom line, i may be having a custom barrel made if i cant get this down to .5" at 100 yards. I personally can print groups like that, but something bout my setup "feels" off under recoil. Due to the hard to find triple priced ammo, im stopping here till get an accu-shot monopod. Personally i think they are ugly as sin, but i know from usingthing they are rock solid, and do not move under recoil.


im leaning towards monopod issues as its more horizontal stinging. Noticed not just in the 3 shot group. Out of frame on the photo are the first 2 rounds fired. Very high, and to the right. Both shots were nearly dead level but were exactly 1.5" apart. So i am seeing a pattern of horizontal stinging. The bipod is rock steady, does not hop under recoil. The only thing that stopped me from staying on target under recoil was the monopod folding under recoil causing the rifle to sift from my shoulder. Best i could tell i was planted behind the rifle (prone on my trailer deck) correctly. The bipod feet didn't appear to move from where they were before the shot. After i get a level (currently in the mail) on this scope ill try again using a bag to see if there is any change. Especially eliminating rifle cant from the equation.

On my 22wmr at 100 yards. i can fire a 3 shot group keeping the rifle dead level. then fire one shot with the bubble in the level riding the line. When i do this the odd shot will be up to 2" off target. So i know that can play a huge part.

I'm really hoping that the most expensive savage i ever bought, will not end up being the worst shooting one i ever sold.

[yobuck]

crazy part is,
you were defending this guy in my inbox when he started this rant.

What actually started (your) rant was, my saying that apparently you guys prefer cool over performance.
Your certainly entitled to your opinion of cool, but since this is a public site im entitled to make comments.
There must be reasons other than that comment that set you off?

And Dave, im not aware that any of the older scopes like the ones i buy on Ebay are fake.
Like many of the new scopes on the market are today.
Anyway Ebay stands behind all that.
Ive also bought quite a few guns because i wanted the scope, then sold the gun and ended up with a nice free scope.
But see im not concerned that they dont look cool. lol

[nathantc]

What actually started (your) rant was, my saying that apparently you guys prefer cool over performance.
Your certainly entitled to your opinion of cool, but since this is a public site im entitled to make comments.
There must be reasons other than that comment that set you off?

more or less i genuinely wanted an answer to what exactly you viewed here as "cool" and not "functional". Being as i never got an answer, i assume you are just being a troll and have no idea what you were talking about.

[Dave Hoback]

What actually started (your) rant was, my saying that apparently you guys prefer cool over performance.
Your certainly entitled to your opinion of cool, but since this is a public site im entitled to make comments.
There must be reasons other than that comment that set you off?

And Dave, im not aware that any of the older scopes like the ones i buy on Ebay are fake.
Like many of the new scopes on the market are today.
Anyway Ebay stands behind all that.
Ive also bought quite a few guns because i wanted the scope, then sold the gun and ended up with a nice free scope.
But see im not concerned that they dont look cool. lol

You need to work on reading comprehension. I never made a comment about your eBay scopes or whatever. I suggest re-reading.

I don’t mind people’s opinions. What I mind is continued comments lacking any evidence of standing whatsoever. Once again I’m still waiting for those “facts” I’ve turned my back on. Please cite my comment which is in clear defiance of a proven concept. Can you do that? If not, than your “opinion” is mindless dribble...AT BEST! Worst case, it’s a coordinated attack on someone based on your dislike.

So.... is there anything else?

[Dave Hoback]

Nathan... unfortunately, if you felt “good” on every shot, then that is what it will do with THAT ammunition. Fact is, it’s just not going to do what you WANT with every load. It’s very typical to see huge differences between factory & worked up loads. Especially with factory rifles. Just nature of the best. Are you set to reload the prc?

[Fuj']

Bottom line, i may be having a custom barrel made if i cant get this down to .5" at 100 yards.

I'm really hoping that the most expensive savage i ever bought, will not end up being the worst shooting one i ever sold.

One factor not in this equation is the ammo your using. That barrel may be capable of shooting
bugholes but as has been said long ago....Garbage in, garbage out. Did you use factory ammo
or something you loaded ?? And yeah; That monopod is not doing you any favors. And if that
bipod can freely rotate on the spigot, again your not doing yourself any favors.

[nathantc]

One factor not in this equation is the ammo your using. That barrel may be capable of shooting
bugholes but as has been said long ago....Garbage in, garbage out. Did you use factory ammo
or something you loaded ?? And yeah; That monopod is not doing you any favors. And if that
bipod can freely rotate on the spigot, again your not doing yourself any favors.

On all my bipod equipped rifles, i shoot better groups with the cant being set where it "almost" freely moves. has always worked better for me, maybe not for others.
Hornady match 225g 300PRC, ammo is super hard to find right now so its all ive got (i know nothing about reloading). Usually get good result from Hornady match in other chamberings. Keep in mind this was only 100 yards, so that spread is terrible.

I'm thinking, even though that palm shelf grip worked for me in the past, it maybe hindering me on this rifle (inducing torque unknowingly to me), the monopod is nice for what it is, but not doing what i need. May try the oem MDT grip, and a rear bag next to be sure. Just to damned hot in the middle of the day. Don't like covering my rifle in sweat.

If changing all the "free" variables makes no difference. Ill lock the chassis into a shooting vice, use my air plunger for the trigger and see whats what. If that also fails, this barrel will be up for sale

Now, what i did do prior to shooting.
action screws torqued at 60 inch pounds
rail to receiver screws torqued at 25 inch pounds
Warne skyline mount to rail torqued at 25 inch pounds
warne skyline mount to scope torqued at 18 inch pounds.

So my theory is that should all be good to go.

[nathantc]

Nathan... unfortunately, if you felt “good” on every shot, then that is what it will do with THAT ammunition. Fact is, it’s just not going to do what you WANT with every load. It’s very typical to see huge differences between factory & worked up loads. Especially with factory rifles. Just nature of the best. Are you set to reload the prc?

I plan to, but this will be my first experience at reloading. So the 100 rounds i have, im saving the brass for now. Figure it should be doing better than that though. I have yet to have any rifle shoot that bad with Hornady Match. Not saying you are wrong about it. Just would really suck for me, as there are not many offerings in 300PRC just yet. And i know nothing about reloading just yet.

[Fuj']

On all my bipod equipped rifles, i shoot better groups with the cant being set where it "almost" freely moves.

The reason I mention this is all about barrel torque. Those heavy loads found an easy path
to rotate the rifle on that bipod set up. My advice is to pull it, and shoot it off bags, fore and aft.
50% of my match shooting is done off a GGG bipod. Once set for a particular senario, It's locked
down tight....Once you get your load locked down, add back the bipod for a comparison.

[nathantc]

The reason I mention this is all about barrel torque. Those heavy loads found an easy path
to rotate the rifle on that bipod set up. My advice is to pull it, and shoot it off bags, fore and aft.
50% of my match shooting is done off a GGG bipod. Once set for a particular senario, It's locked
down tight....Once you get your load locked down, add back the bipod for a comparison.

I like that idea. Ill give it a shot.

[nathantc]

The reason I mention this is all about barrel torque. Those heavy loads found an easy path
to rotate the rifle on that bipod set up. My advice is to pull it, and shoot it off bags, fore and aft.
50% of my match shooting is done off a GGG bipod. Once set for a particular senario, It's locked
down tight....Once you get your load locked down, add back the bipod for a comparison.

OK decided to sweat my ass off. Keep in mind this gets expensive for me. The 20 rounds fired are $90 a box here locally. so ouch.

the blue squares are exactly 3/4" side to side for reference

First 2 groups fired are with the set up as it was




3rd and 4th are using a rolled up towel as a rear bag (dont own one) It was not at all better but i was happy to see a change. Crazy part is im not seeing that kind of error in the scope when firing. Its odd enough i almost want to try a different optic just to be sure, but changing how i rest the rear of the rifle changed the group pattern so probably not the issue




5th group was using a craptastic gun rest as an adjustable rear bag. Also not so great (EDIT GROUP WAS ACTUALLY 1.25")




6th group was standing, rifle supported on the bipod, off hand in the hand hook position on the stock, last 5 rounds of the 20 fired. I cannot prove it, but the last two that are nearly touching to the left, were the last two fired, and both times i noticed i moved that direction as i fired. So i feel that group could have been better. (EDIT, GROUP WAS ACTUALLY 1.25")



All of this, what do you think of it. So far changing how the rifle is supported has changed the pattern. Standing i feel was better because i can get the recoil pad in a more comfortable position than i can prone. The cure for that should be here tuesday as i ordered this to fix it https://www.ebay.com/itm/284261538223

I feel now for sure its something im doing wrong, just not sure what exactly just yet. This is my first chassis rifle so maybe its a learning curve?

[nathantc]

one other thing to note is, every one of my "first" shots on each group, was the one closest to point of aim. Fluke, or clue idk.

[GrenGuy]

I have yet to see a Savage action torqued to 60 in #’s shoot well, I don’t care what the stock manufacturer recommends. Any rifle can benefit from torque tuning the action and I have found that figure to be 45 in/lbs or less, and depending on the rifle 30 can be enough. Even a metal chassis “can” benefit from bedding.

Your shooting a big boomer in a relatively light rifle. I think there’s a reason Your first round is POI and You best group is standing. If I had to shoot that round in that rifle prone or from a bench, I’m sure I would have a 1 1/2” FLINCH, and I ain’t no wimp. The first round is on, now the body knows what’s coming with the second.

For proofing a rifle with factory ammo, FGMM is the standard for initially establishing what a rifle will do. Your rifle may not like Hornady, no matter what success You had with it in the past. Your rifle demands reloading, IMO.

You built a Tactical Rifle, not a Bench Rest rifle. It is capable of hitting center mass at sniper distances, and is therefore acceptable. I suspect it can be improved.

In My opinion, Your in to big a hurry. Going out and shooting in uncomfortable conditions is not the best way to tune a rifle. A lot of good rifles have been sold at bargain prices because the owner tried to fix too many things at the same time.

I only rely on levels for initial bench set up. After that, I train Myself to plum the vertical cross hair by sight.

All of My comments were meant to by helpful, and I hope no offense was taken by any. Best of Luck with Your build.

[nathantc]

I have yet to see a Savage action torqued to 60 in #’s shoot well, I don’t care what the stock manufacturer recommends. Any rifle can benefit from torque tuning the action and I have found that figure to be 45 in/lbs or less, and depending on the rifle 30 can be enough. Even a metal chassis “can” benefit from bedding.

Your shooting a big boomer in a relatively light rifle. I think there’s a reason Your first round is POI and You best group is standing. If I had to shoot that round in that rifle prone or from a bench, I’m sure I would have a 1 1/2” FLINCH, and I ain’t no wimp. The first round is on, now the body knows what’s coming with the second.

For proofing a rifle with factory ammo, FGMM is the standard for initially establishing what a rifle will do. Your rifle may not like Hornady, no matter what success You had with it in the past. Your rifle demands reloading, IMO.

You built a Tactical Rifle, not a Bench Rest rifle. It is capable of hitting center mass at sniper distances, and is therefore acceptable. I suspect it can be improved.

In My opinion, Your in to big a hurry. Going out and shooting in uncomfortable conditions is not the best way to tune a rifle. A lot of good rifles have been sold at bargain prices because the owner tried to fix too many things at the same time.

I only rely on levels for initial bench set up. After that, I train Myself to plum the vertical cross hair by sight.

All of My comments were meant to by helpful, and I hope no offense was taken by any. Best of Luck with Your build.

i'll try different torque on the action screws. MDT recommends 65 inch pounds, i went with 60 due to only have a FAT wrench. I'm not opposed to bedding either. Machining the magwell could have altered the bedding.
Is 16.6 lbs considered light for this type of rifle?
Normally i shoot far better with just about anything, that being said this is the most recoil i've ever tried to shoot for groups with. Could definitely be i need to learn better recoil management.
I agree sub optimal conditions are not the best idea. I do however work in that nightmare daily. Still probably correct about that though. Sight in was in more comfortable weather, same exact results.
"You built a Tactical Rifle, not a Bench Rest rifle" This is true and maybe i'm hoping for to much. I'll be happy if i can consistently stay less than 1" though. Again, after yesterday im convinced its a combo of me, and setup. Not the rifle.
"For proofing a rifle with factory ammo, FGMM is the standard" I Had to google "FGMM" lol. As far as i know Hornady is the only ammo available right now in 300PRC. I do not know how to reload, or have any reloading equipment YET. This will be the chambering that i wet my feet on, so to speak.

absolutely no offence taken. Sound advice and constructive criticism are always welcome. Much more so than "You guys obviously prefer cool over performance. lol" and no context as to why that comment was made.

[nathantc]

messing around, trying a test a youtuber mentioned. I got set up at 100 yards, cock the rifle and put it on safe (safety selector). Get set up 100% like im going to fire, then pull harder on the trigger quickly than i would to fire while watching the reticle. Behold, i moved to the left OR the right every single time. Could not get this to quit no matter how i grip the rifle. Its not canting, just swinging left or right, very slightly that i can see, but we all know slight at this distance is huge at greater distance.

The cure i have found is extending the bipod legs just two notches taller. That 1" difference in height at the base of the bipod (7.5" to 8.5") mad a massive difference in how steady i can hold, and my trigger hand position. Ive always thought "as low as possible" was better. I have yet to try this live fire, but dry fire switching up position low, 1" high, and 2" high, i find im much more consistent dry fire at the 1" high mark on the bipod. It puts my head, and shooting hand in a more natural position as well as placing the recoil pad much more properly on my shoulder. not just the upper corner of the pad making contact with me.

When conditions allow (windy today) im wanting to try this.
Do you guys think there is reality to this, or am i psyching myself out. Got the idea to try this, mainly to get the recoil pad higher to meet my shoulder better and be more inline. Assuming that is why i did better standing than prone.

[Fuj']

Your first 2 groups are horizontal where as the following groups are vertical. The horizontal
groups are showing rotation of the rifle and possibly a combination of pulling. The simple
resting on a rifle can have a big impact on grouping. As was mentioned about action screws.
On all my target action, I'm never higher then 50 inch lbs. with MDT stocks. Have you
measured your trigger pull weight ??

[nathantc]

Your first 2 groups are horizontal where as the following groups are vertical. The horizontal
groups are showing rotation of the rifle and possibly a combination of pulling. The simple
resting on a rifle can have a big impact on grouping. As was mentioned about action screws.
On all my target action, I'm never higher then 50 inch lbs. with MDT stocks. Have you
measured your trigger pull weight ??

Ill back off the action screws. Should the two always be the same. And what would be the lowest safe torque to use as a starting point.
I do not have a means for measuring trigger pull weight. The trigger is the savage "target" trigger and was cleaned up by a local smith. Its as low as i can get it, without tripping it by closing the bolt hard. Any lower and it falls on the safety blade of the accutrigger.

I've always loved the accutrigger but i'm strongly leaning towards something else. First though ill put a lighter spring on the safety blade as its pull, is actually tighter than the trigger pull. Making it kinda weird. Just like the "safety" of the accutrigger is why im stubborn on replacing it. I like knowing if the sear falls on its own, the rifle does not go off.

The change from horizontal to vertical in the grouping actually was relieving to see. I feel better knowing its something im doing vs the rifle. Only other magnum rifle i ever owned was a 7mm rem mag. Light weight, plastic stock, sporter barrel no brake. Shoulder bruiser. So i never once tried to shoot for groups. Before this rifle, the hardest recoiling rifle i ever shot for accuracy was a 6.5cm and its a baby. Its new to me seeing recoil change a group. I dont have "flinch" issues. So im learning that the very instant the recoil starts and skew a group. Been watching a lot of "Mark and Sam after work" on youtube. Guy really seems to know what he is talking about. Doing so has shown me a few things im doing wrong.

The rifle as it sits is 16.6lbs. Not so sure the brake on it is as efficient as some other options may be. Bee looking into other options. Just not sure i would "feel" a difference, or see a difference in group.


https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCs3...P5Er95EniC-uMw

[nathantc]

i made a mistake in my not so good measurements on those groups. Group 5 and group 6 are both 1 1/4" not 1 3/4". I know that is trivial but makes me feel better knowing im closer to MOA on a 110*f day in open sunlight, no wind at all, no shade, and for whatever reason i could have checked my pulse looking threw the scope. Noticed that again today with some dry fire practice. Not sure what my deal is with that, it is unusual for me.

decided to take another look at those groups after watching this video. Different rifle, different shooter, different location, different weather. So i know, it's not apples to apples but it was with the exact same factory ammo. He got roughly the exact same result. So idk, maybe like mentioned, the ammo is the limiting factor. Gotta wait till im set up to reload to work on that though.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N99w8WakUBc

[nathantc]

now THIS is really going to help. Now i can get into a natural COMFORTABLE position behind the rifle without having to adjust my neck and shoulder to compensate to the rifle. I can also keep the recoil impulse in a direct straight line with the bore when in prone now. Before hand only the upper corner of the but pad landed low on my body making the rifle kinda want to go under me during recoil.







Ordered this from the Czech Republic. Its universal and would be extremely easy to use any recoil pad you like, on any rifle you want to attach it to. I will be upgrading my recoil pad to something thicker, and softer. When i do the spacers you see in the photos (came with the product) will be removed to compensate thickness. This thing is beautifully machined and finished. well worth the $125 shipped it cost me. I just might be cutting my boyds pro varmint stocks down to compensate for this on both of them.
https://www.tactical-evo.com/en/usef...universal.html

EDIT
here is this piece compared to the MDT spacer thickness for reference