Discussion here has went all over the place, so i edited my original post to better show the info on the subject in the title for those who stumble across this, looking to do unusual things with the ORYX chassis. I will continue to update this post to answer questions as they come. To better save readers time who aren't interested beyond modifying the oryx.
started as a savage 110FCP in 300 PRC with the HS Precision stock.
Now it's (priced with tax and shipping rounded to nearest $1)
1400 new rifle
oryx 450
oryx side panels 50
oryx lop spacers 40
oryx adjustment knobs 20
Fortmeier H210 bipod 300
bipod spigot 30
Tactical EVO butt plate height adjustment 125
gunsmithing fees TOTAL to date 280 Milling, re-chamber and polish (had bur in chamber)
Gunbloke tanker 2 muzzle brake (still in the mail) 135
ergo grip 60
sako s20 monopod 120
warne skyline mount 130
scope bubble level (still in mail) 40
vortex strike eagle actual cost to me 750
so not counting anything optics related that is $3010
with optics included that is $3,930 and i'm still shopping for a better recoil pad.
7.62x39-124g 380-147g 30.06-180g 300PRC-225g size comparison.
Very, very nice Nathan. Like it.
Ya know your first thread sparked me to finally do something on mine. I’ve him-hawed on mine awhile, wanting more reach with the bipod. But after seeing your mock-up, I thought it was trick looking. So I machined my own Spigot setup for my chassis.
Im actually machining some new parts to change up the buttstock as well.
Good stuff man! Looking forward to hearing how yours shoots.
That is pretty awesome. Like you like the handguard clear, and the bipod out far. Looks pretty cool. You do pretty damn good work. I lack the tooling so i had to take the chassis to my local smith for the machine work.
i fell in love with the versa pod style spigots. Super easy tilt/cant set up. One simple lever with your thumb and the bipod is off leaving a very out of the way mount. Great for when fitting a rifle case to the rifle, even better for weight reduction when shooting off hand. Simply slide back on till it clicks into place to reinstall. Also makes using one bipod for multiple rifles very quick and easy. Just really love this system, wish it was more common.
It’s trick for sure. I like it.
Oh, of course... I certainly don’t fault anyone for lack of tooling. In fact, I would have had to have someone do the same on that chassis. I don’t currently have a lathe....(no room), and it wouldn’t fit upright in my mill. But I’m not too shabby figuring out small parts.
I really do like your Versa-pod setup. Whole thing....with the Oryx in Black... very slick looking partner.
I honestly like it more than i thought i would. Could not find a chassis that was comfortable off hand, on a bench, and prone. All seemed to be good at one or the other. That and i wanted simple, one piece of aluminum front to back. Didn't want an AR style stock or one of MDT skeleton stocks. Didn't need a folder, or a bunch of easy adjustments. For me, i'll set the LOP and the cheek riser to suit me, and probably never move it again. So the fewer moving parts, the more rigid (i think) it would be. I think the green on them makes them look extra cheap. Just was not my cup of tea.Originally Posted by Dave Hoback
Photo of before any mods to the chassis
Got my Vortex Strike Eagle 5-25x56 mocked up in some wheeler rings.
DO NOT BUY THE WHEELER RINGS EXPECTING THE LEVEL TO BE OF ANY USE AT ALL. If it was fixed and not foldable it may have worked. Yes you can adjust the mount to correct the level, but the level will never rest in the same spot twice. It cannot be trusted. Rings are "ok" but highly recommend lapping them as they are cheap and it shows in every way. Would they work, sure, i think so, but they will never be more than just a mock up on this rifle. They are so loose i can move the scope in these photos for a reason.. Currently waiting on my Warne skyline medium mount that should be here Monday to actually mount this optic for the time being.
Again, wheeler rings are ok if on a budget, personally i only have them because i got a deal on them for $20 shipped, and now i see why.
Now for some updated photos.
You guys obviously prefer cool over performance. lol
how do you figure. "cool" would not have been an oryx chassis. "performance" is more rigidity and fewer parts. The rings i just spoke of are shit. The bipod set up is more functional than the garbage you will attach to a swivel stud bar none. What am i missing here?
Yeah, I’m not understanding the “cool over performance” condescendence?? The Oryx chassis is a proven performer. The Vortex Strike Eagle is a fine scope in a price range affordable to many who can’t even think of dropping $2K-$4K on glass, and I agree with Nate’s statement on the bipod. A MUCH higher precision piece over a Harris hanging to a swing swivel. As for the rings... he has lamented on their shortcomings & as they are temporary with order of a 1-piece mount made of 7075, any talk of them is moot.
Don’t get me wrong yobuck, you know I’ve always appreciated your input in threads.. I’m simply curious. Your statement “you guys” & fact of my input here leads me to believe I’m included in your thinking. Can you elaborate?
I chose it because it's nice enough i'll want to keep it for a different rifle in the future, nice enough to get this rifle running, nice enough to last me till i can put the coin down on the Leupold MK5HD im drooling over lol. If you can tell from my photos, that is my 2008 ram 1500 in the background. After i finally get the Leupold i want, i'll actually have more invested in this rifle than my daily driver.
so "cool over performance" kinda struck a nerve. I'm not planning on a $2500 optic, to put in a $400-$500 spuhr mount, on a $140-$160 steel badger ordnance or stainless murphy precision rail, because it's "cool".
Point is i'm a long way from "done" on this one. Just slapped a "cool" optic on it to get it running in the time being.
By the way, how long is that rifle. Mine is 51.25 inches long by 12.5 inches tall with the scope. Currently looking for a hard case that i can cut the foam to fit the rifle. I ask because your rifle looks to be pretty long as well and that looks like a nice case.
My rifle is 46-1/4” OAL. Thanks.. I do like the case very much. It’s a Pelican 1750. I would never have purchased for myself, but it was a gift, & I’m quite thankful for it. I have the room to store my rifle at full length, but I still remove the shoulder stock for the case. It’s super easy on the TAC21 chassis & maximizes space.
The Leupold Mark5HD is one of my top picks as well. But far outside my budget! Ahh, perhaps one day. I have been quite happy with my Athlon Midas scope. And it’s not a “get me by”. It’s a permanent fixture on my rifle. The mount is an ADM Recon and it to has performed without complaint. It’s a chunk of aluminum & is machined true....not really much more goes into performance for rings/scope mount. A Spuhr, once again is not something that I’ll will ever use. I could...but I don’t believe it offers anything many other mounts do....and for much less $$. (Same reason I would not not have purchased the Pelican case for myself.)
I've always wondered about the big lower shelf on grips like that. Putting any pressure at all on that shelf would potentially cause the rifle to flex slightly, causing vertical errors. I think they're probably the bees knees for bullseye pistol shooting. That being said, I actually have one on an AR varmint/target setup, but I'm rethinking it.
I will mention I've actually shot benchrest competition out to 1000 yards, but not with a Savage. LOL. Black powder out to 1000 yards and beyond. That's all wind doping and gun handling
for me i like the grip its self. The palm shelf i like when used with the thumb shelf on the chassis. It helps me when prone to relax my shooting hand as much as possible and move only my trigger finger. Anything other than prone (for me) that shelf is just kinda "there". Its one of those things i do to taylor it to me personally.
First time i ever used one was on a custom AR built off a bushmaster varminter matched barrel and bolt in a matched ASA receiver set. Years ago and this thing was a tac driver. But im just not an ar guy. sold that rifle for $3500 about 8 years ago.
im saving for the Leupold. The spuhr is probably no better than the warne skyline mount i have ordered. Both SHOULD hold the optic in perfect zero without issue. The spuhr is something that is proven though, and i'm only going to feel the sting once "buy once, cry once" right. I know there are other options out there, I just believe i'm guaranteed to not be let down or disappointed in the spuhr. One could argue that the oem (egw) rail on my rifle will work just as good as the badger steel one. Maybe so. The weight and brake on this rifle make it very gentle to shoot. Still, this is one of those build i plan to keep forever. Im not rich by any means, just check to check and throwing money in a savings account till i get there. I got champagne taste on a beer budget lolMy rifle is 46-1/4” OAL. Thanks.. I do like the case very much. It’s a Pelican 1750. I would never have purchased for myself, but it was a gift, & I’m quite thankful for it. I have the room to store my rifle at full length, but I still remove the shoulder stock for the case. It’s super easy on the TAC21 chassis & maximizes space.
The Leupold Mark5HD is one of my top picks as well. But far outside my budget! Ahh, perhaps one day. I have been quite happy with my Athlon Midas scope. And it’s not a “get me by”. It’s a permanent fixture on my rifle. The mount is an ADM Recon and it to has performed without complaint. It’s a chunk of aluminum & is machined true....not really much more goes into performance for rings/scope mount. A Spuhr, once again is not something that I’ll will ever use. I could...but I don’t believe it offers anything many other mounts do....and for much less $$. (Same reason I would not not have purchased the Pelican case for myself.)
Should have posted this photo in the first post, but here it is if anyone else thinks of doing this. It almost gets to the assembly screw holding the lower magwell to the chassis.
Yeah, I was wondering about that. Knew you had to lengthen the mag well. Just fits...very cool
Does that fit in with “looking cool over performance”? Which we haven’t received an answer to. Im still scratching my head on that one.
yeah, i just wanted a bigger magazine for that "cool kid look lol"
7.62x39
.308
30.06
300PRC
It's a pretty long round, you know for that "coolness"
Jokes aside, the 300PRC IS a formidable looking cartridge. It could be argued as being the top Extended Long Range offering.
Something I’ve found interesting: There is a 300PRC & 6.5PRC... Although both ultimately lead back to the 375 Ruger, they are vastly different. It’s just seems odd. When looking at others, for instance the 6mm & 6.5mm CM, the expected is similar case size.
Have a new MDT ORYX build going on myself presently. This one will be more then
a cool factor, and for UBR bench work. As for magazine mods, it will be only to add
a center block so I can use the center screw on a PTA. Somewhere in these forums
I have an old MDT HS3 build. It won me a few match's, but a consistant 1/3rd MOA
lost me some. Have to have it tuned for 1/4 or less. I think this one I'll shoulder up
a Hart with my 284-ELF. Having Protekor do another bag. Seems every build needs
it's own rear sleigh....
Keeping my bad Karma intact since 1952
i could be wrong (haven't had much interest) but i think the 6.5cm vs the 6.5prc is like standard vs magnum. If memory serves. looking at the two side by side in person at a local shop. The OAL was pretty much the same, but the PRC uses a magnum bolt face and diameter case. So just a little extra umph. Kinda like a short action magnum.
im assuming you are talking about the savage target action, single shot with the 3 action screws? If so how much is gained buy the use of that center screw? Pretty sure the FCP/BA action (like on my rifle) is the same action BUT with the bottom milled out for the magazine. It is cut to ONLY work with AICS magazines. No way could this action function with a OEM savage magazine.
Had to look thru my photos. Didn't get a photo of the magazine cut out but here is one showing pretty much just the action
Yeah, pretty much intended to make it as stiff and integral as possible for bench work. That front screw onim assuming you are talking about the savage target action, single shot with the 3 action screws? If so how much is gained buy the use of that center screw?
Savage actions does not have a lot of thread depth, so anything to help with recoil deflection and harmonics,
transfered thru the stock, helps. I'll also do a slight skim bedding of the v-block and that includes the lug.
And I mean slight. Just about 2 drops of Devcon slurry is all that needed.
Keeping my bad Karma intact since 1952
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