My savage 11 chassis build

**Detdave** · 05-24-2021, 10:23 AM

So I bought another savage action. This one turns out to be a 2017 savage 11 trophy hunter xp .243 that I’m using for my mdt acc chassis build chambered in 6.5 creedmoor. I’m getting parts together and this is my first ever build and I want it to be to the 9’s my questions are, is it worth blueprinting? I feel any improvement will be worth it. Who is a good place to have it done, I see most places are Remington specific. Also, I’m kinda stuck on the barrel. I’m leaning toward a spiral fluted 26” bull 5r from xcalibur. They seem like they are in the level and they offer the spiral fluting which I want for performance as well as cosmetic reasons. I’m assembling parts just need the timney and to get the barrel. I was also debating just sending all the pieces in and having it built by whom ever I get to work the action.

**want2ride** · 05-24-2021, 06:57 PM

Congratulations! It should be a great project. I really don't know anything about Xcalibur barrels, so i am not really any help there.
I have built a couple rifles from Savage actions, and i have not blueprinted the action. I don't believe that you get the benefit from blueprinting a Savage that you do from say a Remington because there are things in the design of a Savage that help reduce the need to blueprint. Basically i would sand the surface that the barrel nut rests against if i saw burrs, but if it looked decent, i wouldn't worry about it. I am sure there are others that have built more rifles that have a better opinion on this, but i personally wouldn't pay someone else to do this. I am kind of a do-it-yourselfer, and if you are needing a hand, by all means try to get a local gunsmith to help. It is always a good thing to have a gunsmith that you have a relationship with that can give you a little guidance or help.

I am not a fan of fluted barrels, but i do have some that shoot fine with them... I just don't think that i would pay extra for something that in my mind may negatively affect performance.

Good choice on the 6.5 Creedmoor, i don't shoot mine a whole lot anymore. I did take it out already this year after not even shooting it last year and barely the year before. It shot just as good as i remember, i have access to a couple 1100 yard ranges and the 6.5 Creedmoor just has a nice combination of inexpensive ammo and components, good ballistics, adequate speed and light recoil that makes a heavy barreled rifle such a pleasure to shoot. It isn't going to do any one thing wonderfully, but overall super well rounded. Hard not to like it.

Good choice on the MDT chassis, my Brother-in-law has the ACC chassis and it is a really nice chassis. It has a lot of neat little things that are just cool features.

**Detdave** · 05-25-2021, 06:18 AM

Thank you! And thanks for the insight. I’m going fluted for esthetics but heat distribution is the main reason. I’m lookin at the tools being in a diy guy myself. My concern with building it myself is that I’ve never headspaced a rifle and it’s too important and possibly dangerous to get it wrong. I’ve built literally dozens of glocks and ars and wanted a bench rifle so I figured it’s time to take a break from the norm a do a different build. I have another savage I was initially going to use for this build turned out to be a learning lesson. I tweaked the action removing the barrel. Turns out tho it’s a 6.5 creedmoor it’s a long action. So I decided to get the new action and I fixed this one and threw it in a cheap archangel stock. Now it needs headspacing and somethings up with the trigger. When I pull it it doesn’t send the fire pin. Those two things made me thing to either get assistance or have someone else just complete the build due to my inexperience.

**GaCop** · 05-25-2021, 06:59 AM

Originally Posted by Detdave

Thank you! And thanks for the insight. I’m going fluted for esthetics but heat distribution is the main reason. I’m lookin at the tools being in a diy guy myself. My concern with building it myself is that I’ve never headspaced a rifle and it’s too important and possibly dangerous to get it wrong. I’ve built literally dozens of glocks and ars and wanted a bench rifle so I figured it’s time to take a break from the norm a do a different build. I have another savage I was initially going to use for this build turned out to be a learning lesson. I tweaked the action removing the barrel. Turns out tho it’s a 6.5 creedmoor it’s a long action. So I decided to get the new action and I fixed this one and threw it in a cheap archangel stock. Now it needs headspacing and somethings up with the trigger. When I pull it it doesn’t send the fire pin. Those two things made me thing to either get assistance or have someone else just complete the build due to my inexperience.

Get a set of GO/NOGO gauges for the caliber your working with and you'll be set.

**olddav** · 05-25-2021, 07:35 AM

Tell us more about the trigger issue your having.

**Dave Hoback** · 06-14-2021, 11:05 AM

The Savage Action uses a non-shoulder, barrel nut system & floating bolt head. Therefore blueprinting other than extensive cleaning & burr removal is not really necessary. Call it “Home Bluprinting”.

I would encourage doing everything yourself. You already have the skill required, as you’ve assembled Glocks & AR’s. Setting headspace is quite easy. I actually use a Go gauge & .0025” shim. But piece of tape works fine.

**Robinhood** · 06-14-2021, 06:53 PM

Look at your trigger closely. It has a safety blade that has to be depressed before you pull the trigger. If you push the trigger sideways or rearward before the safety blade is depressed the the safety blade stops the sear from advancing to the fire position locking the trigger up. If you work the trigger with the stock removed it will be self explanatory. You can also find videos on youtube that will educate you.

What am I telling you? If your trigger is adjusted correctly the problem is you.