So what is the general consensus on lubrication of your bolt rifle actions?

**geneackley** · 03-23-2021, 04:59 AM

I finally assembled my new rifle tonight. I have been slowly collecting all the parts for weeks after much careful consideration... but now its done.

I am very familiar and have built ARs for years. They need Lubrication to run reliably.

But what is the Lubrication consensus on bolt guns?

My new rifle was going to be based on a Savage 110 action (but wound up being a Nucleus because I couldn't find many aftermarket stocks for the 110 with DBM and a tactical style pistol grip), but I assume the lubrication issues would be the same in all bolt actions.

So I had some of that TEFLON Remington spray lube and used it tonight in a pinch because I figured the dry lube wouldn't attract dirt so much...

But does it even need lube?

Do you guys do any bolt action lubrication at all?

I would love your insights on this.

Thanks

**bignorm40** · 03-23-2021, 05:51 AM

I give mine a light coat just to smooth out the sliding of the bolt...

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**GaCop** · 03-23-2021, 06:58 AM

Originally Posted by bignorm40

I give mine a light coat just to smooth out the sliding of the bolt...

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+1

**Fuj'** · 03-23-2021, 07:58 AM

Dri-Slide

**fayettefatts** · 03-23-2021, 08:21 AM

I've also started using a spray Teflon made by DuPont that dries to a wax. Seems to work well. Be sure to spray the bolt lugs.

**JeepsAndGuns** · 03-23-2021, 12:25 PM

I have switched to using Hornady one shot on every gun I have. It is a dry film type lube, very slick and excellent corrosion protection (just look it up online).
I also have a little bit of moly grease I use on some higher pressure areas (like the cocking ramp in the bolt body)

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1014743837

**geneackley** · 03-23-2021, 02:02 PM

Originally Posted by bignorm40

I give mine a light coat just to smooth out the sliding of the bolt...

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Light coat of WHAT exactly?

Thanks

**geneackley** · 03-23-2021, 02:06 PM

Originally Posted by JeepsAndGuns

I have switched to using Hornady one shot on every gun I have. It is a dry film type lube, very slick and excellent corrosion protection (just look it up online).
I also have a little bit of moly grease I use on some higher pressure areas (like the cocking ramp in the bolt body)

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1014743837

Thanks. I will check that Hornady lube out and order me some. Again Thanks.

**geneackley** · 03-23-2021, 02:12 PM

Originally Posted by fayettefatts

I've also started using a spray Teflon made by DuPont that dries to a wax. Seems to work well. Be sure to spray the bolt lugs.

I like teflon.... just not in my frying pans cause its a carcinogen... buts its ideal to not let crud stick to it.

Ok then, lots on the lugs!!! Got it!!!

**hamiltonkiler** · 03-23-2021, 02:23 PM

I like bow string wax and a squirt of rem oil.

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**geneackley** · 03-23-2021, 02:33 PM

Originally Posted by hamiltonkiler

I like bow string wax and a squirt of rem oil.

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Never even knew that stuff existed til now!!! ok then. Ironically my cousin owns an archery store in Weatherford, Texas. I will call him. Again thanks.

**wbm** · 03-23-2021, 02:40 PM

Fuj' Dri-Slide

Consensus?

Dri-Slide

**efm77** · 03-23-2021, 03:53 PM

I've bounced around all over the place through the years but have moved back to what I started with originally for the most part. Good synthetic grease on the high friction areas. A very thin film on the bolt body, and then good coverage on the back of the lugs, as well as the cocking cam, and extraction cam. Those are the areas with the most pressure. Most of the time I use Mobil 1 synthetic grease. Much much cheaper than anything made specifically for guns and is rated down to -40F. I also put a little bit on the sear engagement. Everything thing else is usually sprayed down with Hornady One Shot as it's a very good dry lube and rust protector. The reason I've gone to that regiment is because oil tends to migrate and creep in to places it's not supposed to be and doesn't stay where it's needed. Grease and dry lube tend to not run off.

**Chowda** · 03-23-2021, 05:06 PM

I use CLP or Rem lube for everything. CLP is all we used in the Army for everything from the M16 to M2 50 cal to MK 19 grenade launcher. I was taught a light coat of oil simply means putting it on and wiping it off. It worked in evironments from Ak where I was stationed to deployments to Iraq.

**geneackley** · 03-23-2021, 05:35 PM

Originally Posted by efm77

I've bounced around all over the place through the years but have moved back to what I started with originally for the most part. Good synthetic grease on the high friction areas. A very thin film on the bolt body, and then good coverage on the back of the lugs, as well as the cocking cam, and extraction cam. Those are the areas with the most pressure. Most of the time I use Mobil 1 synthetic grease. Much much cheaper than anything made specifically for guns and is rated down to -40F. I also put a little bit on the sear engagement. Everything thing else is usually sprayed down with Hornady One Shot as it's a very good dry lube and rust protector. The reason I've gone to that regiment is because oil tends to migrate and creep in to places it's not supposed to be and doesn't stay where it's needed. Grease and dry lube tend to not run off.

I like your approach of using automotive grease. Its so much cheaper than fancy "gun lubes" and a tube will probably last you a lifetime and your Walmart Automotive section is probably a lot closer than Midway USA...

In that vein of "automotive items", I use a gun cleaner called "ED's Red". You may have heard of it, but its a mixture in equal parts of a quart of acetone, Dexron III Transmission fluid, Kerosene and mineral spirits. You wind up with a gallon of gun cleaner and its great cause you can pour some into a container and let your parts soak overnight... I then run the leftover liquid through a coffee filter and use it again and again. Its really great... and cheap.

I also make my own case lube. I use an ounce of liquid lanoline (I bought a 16 ounce bottle on Amazon and it will probably last me the rest of my life) diluted into 16 ounces of fuel injector cleaner that is 99.9 % alcohol. You put it in a spray bottle and its just incredible. Youtube has lots of videos of these home made lanoline based case lubricants. Again you just save a lot of money and they work great and they are not so harsh on your hands.

So I have a feeling a tube of Mobil one grease will be following me home next time I go to Wally World. Thanks EFM!!!!

**geneackley** · 03-23-2021, 05:52 PM

Originally Posted by Chowda

I use CLP or Rem lube for everything. CLP is all we used in the Army for everything from the M16 to M2 50 cal to MK 19 grenade launcher. I was taught a light coat of oil simply means putting it on and wiping it off. It worked in evironments from Ak where I was stationed to deployments to Iraq.

I am sure CLP is great. The military must have very sound reasons for using it. I just dont much care for liquid lubricants since they tend to migrate. I also am skeptical of something that does too many things at once like CLEANING, LUBRICATING and PRESERVING...

Obviously I am not a chemist and may very well be full of it. And it wouldn't be the first time someone has thought that of me!! ha ha !!!

But I can clean with Ed's Red, Lube with something that won't migrate (like the Mobile 1 grease EFM77 suggested), and preserve with Lanolin which is a really great rust inhibitor.

I think the military uses LSA in their machine guns now... its a liquid grease... its virtue is that it can be squirted on out of a bottle, but then behaves much like a grease and doesn't tend to migrate. Dont ask me how it works... Remember I am not a chemist!! ha ha !!!

Thanks Chowda!!!

**geneackley** · 03-23-2021, 05:57 PM

Originally Posted by wbm

Consensus?

Dri-Slide

Is this a gun product? I have never heard of it. Thanks

**wbm** · 03-23-2021, 06:12 PM

https://uniquetek.com/product/T1247

**Downwindtracker2** · 03-23-2021, 09:26 PM

I use automotive synthetic motor oil for oil, 0wt . If it stays thin at 50 below, it won't freeze an action. For high bearing surfaces like cams and lugs, #1 moly grease. Moly is magic, but it sure is black. Mobil 101 is good stuff.

**Robinhood** · 03-24-2021, 08:54 AM

Hobo oil.

Contact: Group Therapy on Accurate Shooter

**Mr.Snerdly** · 03-24-2021, 03:17 PM

What about spraying the bolt with graphite? It doesn't attract dirt and dust like grease, although I would think the lugs should be greased very lightly. I use John Deere Polyurea grease on the lugs but genuine CaseIH 251H EP is always preferred. I would think graphite would make for a smooth working bolt.

**jkv45** · 03-24-2021, 04:04 PM

Using Hornady One-Shot as well for cleaning, light lubing, and corrosion protection.

LP (Lube Protect) for oil.

Super Lube light synthetic grease on sliding contact areas.

**cchgn** · 03-24-2021, 06:49 PM

Places you should not put any lube: trigger assy, chamber, bore, sear assy, firing pin assy, ammo. Mineral oil is the base of 99.9% of all lubes, so just get mineral oil, it's alot cheaper.

IMO, I don't trust anything that claims to clean, lube and protect all in one. I suspect that it doesn't do any of them very well. To me, the issue isn't what lube (most all attract dust and dirt and grime, grease more than oil, and then dries out), but how much to put on. I take a flannel cloth and infuse it (not dripping saturated) with mineral oil and keep it in a gallon baggie and simply, lightly wipe down everything that I didn't mention up there and then wipe it off with a clean, lint free cloth (plenty enough stays on it). Remember, it's not a car engine (or even an AR or semi SG or pistol) it's a bolt action rifle, no rapid fire, it doesn't get NEAR as much friction as folks think. Gun makers harden the crap out of their parts, especially those that rub against each other. Anyway, we're letting them cool off between shots, too, right? YMMV

**geneackley** · 03-24-2021, 09:36 PM

Originally Posted by cchgn

Places you should not put any lube: trigger assy, chamber, bore, sear assy, firing pin assy, ammo. Mineral oil is the base of 99.9% of all lubes, so just get mineral oil, it's alot cheaper.

IMO, I don't trust anything that claims to clean, lube and protect all in one. I suspect that it doesn't do any of them very well. To me, the issue isn't what lube (most all attract dust and dirt and grime, grease more than oil, and then dries out), but how much to put on. I take a flannel cloth and infuse it (not dripping saturated) with mineral oil and keep it in a gallon baggie and simply, lightly wipe down everything that I didn't mention up there and then wipe it off with a clean, lint free cloth (plenty enough stays on it). Remember, it's not a car engine (or even an AR or semi SG or pistol) it's a bolt action rifle, no rapid fire, it doesn't get NEAR as much friction as folks think. Gun makers harden the crap out of their parts, especially those that rub against each other. Anyway, we're letting them cool off between shots, too, right? YMMV

My feelings exactly!!!

I SUSPECT the military has adopted CLP as a "good enough" product to be used in the field, so that soldiers are not having to carry a separate cleaner, lubricant and preserver in their field packs... Lord knows they are weighed down with enough equipment already!!!.

However, for us civilians who don't get deployed, its probably best to just employ a good cleaner, a good lubricant, and then a good preserver.

I still lean toward the "automotive class" of chemicals for their quality in relation to their cost and quantity. Ed's Red for example is a lot cheaper per gallon than CLP... and you can pick up the ingredients at Walmart or Home Depot... in other words, just about anywhere!