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Thread: Bore brush vs Bore Snake for breaking in barrel

  1. #1
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    Bore brush vs Bore Snake for breaking in barrel


    Hey everyone,
    I’m a happy new owner of a Savage Axis XP II chambered in a 6.5 Creedmoor. My question pertains to breaking in the barrel. FYI, I am new to bolt actions but not rifles in general. I am going to ask this question that probably was asked a million times. As the title says: for the process of breaking in the barrel what do you all recommend a rod or bore snake? Thank you in advance.

    D..

  2. #2
    Team Savage Stumpkiller's Avatar
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    Personally I find it easier to use a rod. I carry a snake for use while hunting or away from home & a proper rod should the need arise.
    "They couldn't hit an elephant at this distance." Last words of Gen. Sedgwik

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    Ive never bothered to (properly) break in a barrel.
    There are varying opinions on that anyway.
    But as for the type of cleaning rod, ive always preferred the one pc. models like Dewey for example.
    There is always a cleaning rod along with several size brushes when we hunt.
    You only need to have one once and not have it to be cured of that.

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    Thank you. I went ahead and purchased a rod kit and bore snake. I use bore snakes for my other rifles like my 5:56/.223, which eats everything I feed it and my .22lr, purchased used but a good cleaning and bore snake passes did the trick. Thank you for your time.

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    I just recently got a new Axis 6.5 creedmoor and was wondering the same about "barrel break in". After seeing all of the elaborate procedures online, talking to everyone who I know that shoots, military veterans, law enforcement gun gurus, reading all of the posts on here, and thinking hard on it myself, I finally came up with my way to do it. After the initial cleaning of the factory preservatives, oil, and grease and finding the correct bore guide, I put one round down range. Then using a good one piece rod, pushed a patch with Hoppes solvent followed with a few dry patches until they got clean. One more patch with Hoppes gun oil, then a couple dry patches to clean out any excess oil. No brushing, as I did not see any need for a brush. Repeated one more time with a second round and then I called it good. Maybe I'm right, maybe I'm wrong. I guess only time (and shooting) will tell, but I feel good about it anyway.

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    Basic Member Robinhood's Avatar
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    Get any shavings or hard stuff out and go shoot. When you are done oil patch it before storage. Clean out the oil before you shoot again(very critical). Whatever you do don't go overboard with the cleaning until the groups start opening up.
    The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Longleaf73 View Post
    I just recently got a new Axis 6.5 creedmoor and was wondering the same about "barrel break in". After seeing all of the elaborate procedures online, talking to everyone who I know that shoots, military veterans, law enforcement gun gurus, reading all of the posts on here, and thinking hard on it myself, I finally came up with my way to do it. After the initial cleaning of the factory preservatives, oil, and grease and finding the correct bore guide, I put one round down range. Then using a good one piece rod, pushed a patch with Hoppes solvent followed with a few dry patches until they got clean. One more patch with Hoppes gun oil, then a couple dry patches to clean out any excess oil. No brushing, as I did not see any need for a brush. Repeated one more time with a second round and then I called it good. Maybe I'm right, maybe I'm wrong. I guess only time (and shooting) will tell, but I feel good about it anyway.
    Hoppes was originally made in Philly.
    The owners name was Frank Hoppe, he was a small bore shooter, well known in the area.
    As a young teen i got to see him quite often at area matches.
    Nothing has that unique oder like Hoppes does.
    No doubt it has contributed to its longevity.

  8. #8
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    Yes sir, I'm sure that was probably very cool to meet Mr. Hoppe. As for the unique smell of the Hoppe's products, I have grown accustomed to it enough that I joke with my wife about wearing it as cologne.

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    Quote Originally Posted by yobuck View Post
    Hoppes was originally made in Philly.
    The owners name was Frank Hoppe, he was a small bore shooter, well known in the area.
    As a young teen i got to see him quite often at area matches.
    Nothing has that unique oder like Hoppes does.
    No doubt it has contributed to its longevity.
    I`m sure I`m not the only one whose memories of growing up come flooding back with the first whiff of Hoppes #9 !

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by yobuck View Post
    Hoppes was originally made in Philly.
    The owners name was Frank Hoppe, he was a small bore shooter, well known in the area.
    As a young teen i got to see him quite often at area matches.
    Nothing has that unique oder like Hoppes does.
    No doubt it has contributed to its longevity.
    So is it pronounced "hop" or "hop-e"

    I've always said "hop-e" but recently heard that was not correct.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Robinhood View Post
    Get any shavings or hard stuff out and go shoot. When you are done oil patch it before storage. Clean out the oil before you shoot again(very critical). Whatever you do don't go overboard with the cleaning until the groups start opening up.
    I will second the comments from Robinhood. Breaking in new barrel with a bunch of shoot clean cycles is a waste of time and ammo and shortens the life of your barrel. Read what Gale McMillan said about it years ago when it was becoming a fad.

    https://www.accurateshooter.com/tech...k-in-a-barrel/

    Barrel Break in - Myth or?

    I never use wire brushes in my barrels anymore, opting for a properly sized patch and patch tip instead. I do sometimes use a slightly undersized nylon brush with a patch wrapped around it, sort of like a renewable bore mop. There is no need for a wire brush if you are using something like Patch Out or Wipe Out or Lead Out if you are shooting lead bullets. The consensus for NOT using wire brushes in rimfires is significantly higher than for centerfires. My advice is never use a wire brush or a bore snake with a wire brush in it, in your rimfire guns.

    Bore Snakes can ruin your day and maybe your gun, with the snapping sound of the pull string breaking free of the snake body. I keep a variety of bore snakes in my range kit and one with the each rifle when out in the field, but I remove the brushes from them other than my shotgun snakes. I would highly recommend removing the brush in 6mm and smaller sizes, to prevent a stuck brush in the bore if (when) the pull string breaks off the thicker body of the snake. Trying to get a stuck bronze brush entangled in the bore snake is a nightmare with a very high probability of damaging your bore to some extent.

    Stuck Bore Snake Stories

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