Reply With QuoteThe factory setting usually runs .055", but it's better to make it .035-.045"
I recently changed my bolt head and I wanted to check the firing pin protrusion. I should’ve checked it before I disassembled it. What is spec?
The factory setting usually runs .055", but it's better to make it .035-.045"
I think I was around .052 after the swap. Maybe I’ll back it off some. ThanksOriginally Posted by celltech
1 tab's worth (4 tab lock) is ~.009. If your .052 now then 1/4 tirn will put you at about .043, right about where you want to be.
I agree.
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
Thank you. I will give it a shot.
I adjusted it .041
Thanks guys.
I finally had a chance to test my new rifle. I had a few fail to fires with a different types of ammo. Could it be that .041 is not enough? Should I readjust it to .050?
.041" should be plenty...did you lube up the inside of the bolt? If you did, clean it off.
It appeared to be lubed on disassembly. When I got done, I wiped everything off and reapplied lube. Should it be dry? How would that create light strikes?
Dry. Wet or lubricated will slow acceleration.
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
So do you think disassembly and wiping it dry will fix the FTF issue? Or should I adjust the pin protrusion slightly while I have it apart as well? I’d like to get it right the first time as a trip to the range is somewhat of a hassle and I don’t want to get involved in disassembly while I’m there. Thanks.
read below.
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
The numbers you were given are accurate. The firing pin will stop at around .025"+or- protrusion because the primer will not let it go any further. You can set it at .100" and it will move around .025"+or-.
Can you answer a couple of question for me.
Who set the headspace? Savage, you, someone else?
Are you reloading or are you using factory ammo?
Try using your bolt completely clean with zero oil or grease on the inside. Does that help?
Everytime I ever put lube inside the bolt it had a negative effect. It is like trying to run fast inf 4 foot of water.
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
I set the headspace myself. I checked it several times with the firing pin and ejector removed. I checked it again after the nut was torqued down and one more time after everything was assembled. I’m very confident that I got that right.
I’m using factory ammo. I shot about 50 rounds of SSA HPBT. I think I had one FTF. Then I shot a 4 other types of ammo, 12 rounds total. I think I had 5 FTF.
When I replaced the bolt head, I thought that it looked like it was oiled from the factory. So when I reassembled it, I lubed it back up. I think that I was a bit generous on the lube. I never would’ve thought that the lube would cause a problem, but thinking back now I probably used a bit much. I didn’t realize that a loss of speed would result in a FTF.
I will disassemble the bolt and firing pin and give it a thorough cleaning and reinstall dry. I won’t have a chance to get to the range again until later next week. So you think that I should leave the protrusion set at .041? Thanks for your help.
The protrusion dimensions that celltech provided are optimal and graciously supplied by the best Savage gunsmith known, Fred Moreo. I have confirmed firing pin travel and protrusion requirements during an extensive communication with Chad Dixon of Long Rifles INC. Chad is right up there with the greatest in my opinion. And will give you knowledge freely. So in my opinion those dimensions are sound.
I think .041" is good enough. The next up is .050" the next down is .032". I know of about 20 that are set with .035" and .044" that never have a problem. The headspace is set correctly on all of them. Anything over .044" is only taking away from firing pin travel. I don't know exactly how much travel is needed but it has been suggested that .225 is pretty close to where we want to be. The old savage firing pins were heavy. If you measure the cocking ramp and subtract the diameter of the pin (and if I remember correctly) it is somewhere around .275" plus. One reason I do not subscribe to the back off of the cocking piece to lighten bolt lift. My personal preference a single ball lift kit, alter the preload at the BAS and or reduce the spring rate.
Don't forget to clean the inside of the bolt and head thoroughly also.
TMI I know, but I have heard suggestions of this site not lasting much longer and imparting that information at this time may be prudent.
One last thing did you use a no go or did you use a shim or tape to make sure you were not too long on the headspac..
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
I used a no go gauge and also double checked it with a go gauge with a piece of scotch tape.
Not TMI at all. All good info. Thank you for sharing. I will give it a thorough cleaning and I’ll report back as soon as I can.
I disassembled the pin and cleaned it up. Upon reassembly, I double checked the protrusion. Somehow I must’ve messed up on the measurement because now I’m getting .034. I readjusted it 2 clicks to .052 just to be sure. I thought about going to .043. Maybe I should have. I’ll head back to the range next week.
A little update. After heading back to the range, I still had an occasional fail to fire. Turns out that when I adjusted my firing pin protrusion, I guess I messed up. I sent my bolt out to get checked out and the spring pressure was a little light and the firing pin travel was adjusted a little short. Hopefully I’ll be able to get back to the range soon. He sounded pretty confident that was causing my FTF.
Out of curiosity, how short did you make it and how were you checking your work?
For future Savage-smiths. What happened to non typical often arises from fellas trying to reduce the bolt lift effort. The cocking piece pin should be close to the bottom of the cocking ramp when setting up your firing pin. If the cocking piece is backed off, this reduces the firing pin travel.
You can tell if the cocking piece adjustment is off by paying attention to the amount the bolt handle travels without resistance when lifting the bolt from the fired position. It should begin to contact the ramp with a very small amount of upward movement. You do not want the cocking piece pin contacting the bottom of the cocking ramp window though, this will affect the firing pin protrusion and possibly cause other issues. Careful observation when adjusting the firing pin assembly is prudent.
Sorry for interrupting celltech, Chive On.
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
I sent my bolt to Desh industries to have him go over it. IIRC, he said it was .187 of travel and should’ve been about .25. And because the travel was off it also resulted in the spring pressure being a little light. It was set at 20lbs and should’ve been at 23lbs.
I probably should’ve just left the firing pin protrusion set where it was when I replaced the bolt head. But of course, I’m one to always try and make things perfect. Unfortunately this time due to my limited lack of knowledge other than watching a YouTube video on adjusting the pin protrusion, I made it worse and created another problem. Hopefully after having someone else with a lot more knowledge and the correct tools to measure and make the right adjustments, I will not have anymore issues.
I wasn't trying to belittle you nontypical in case I came across that way. I was targeting future readers who look this topic up, so they know what to look for and they don't loose firing pin travel causing light strikes. I'm glad you got yours fixed.
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
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