Reply With QuoteI would replace the recoil lug at minimum but to get most out of that you should also bed the action. I would toss the smooth nut too, but that's my preference.
If you were swapping your barrel on your savage 110, would you replace the barrel nut and recoil lug with one of the 'better' aftermarket versions? I currently have the smooth barrel nut so it might be nice to keep it and to only need one wrench and also know for sure it fits in my stock.
I would replace the recoil lug at minimum but to get most out of that you should also bed the action. I would toss the smooth nut too, but that's my preference.
Thanks. It's an accustock.
Toss that nut in the trash and get one from Patriot Valley...
On a 100 yard deer gun, I wouldn't worry about it. Just put the factory stuff back in it.
On a 600-1000 yard prairie dog gun, yeah, I'd replace the lug, the nut and bed the action.
Depends on what you're building it for.
12F, McGowen 6.5x284 1-8" twist, Nightforce 12-42x BR<br />BVSS, McGowen barrel, 22-250 1-9" twist, Nikon 6-18x<br />16 FHLSS Weather Warrior, Sinarms 257 Roberts, Pentax 3-9<br />Stevens 200, 223 bone-factory-stock, Nikon 3-9x<br />Scratch-built BVSS, LW 243 1-8" twist, Viper 6.5-20x50 mil-dot
It's for big game and target out to 5-600 yards. That's if leupold ever opens their custom shop so I can get a tac milling reticle on my vx2 which will take me to 650. Otherwise, the tri moa on my vx freedom will take me to 500. It'll probably stay a 308 with a 24 inch
Asking this from a slightly different angle, how does it make sense to have a trued barrel nut if the action is not trued? It's a factory action. Are the factory barrel nut and recoil lugs the weak points in the system or something?
I have several untrued 12FV actions/lugs/nuts that I rebarreled and they shoot 3/8" groups. I personally think it's diminishing returns at that point. What is the purpose of the rifle? I just think the smooth nut is a PITA and I would use a pipe wrench to take it off and not waste the money on the special tool for it. If you are changing the barrel then convert it to something more standard.
If that rifle is for some serious work, I'll take the action and true
the face. Then head to NSS and get their heavier ground lug and
trued nut.....Better yet get a hold of "Sharpshooter" He should have
the same in stock.
Keeping my bad Karma intact since 1952
Buy the NSS parts!
And you can talk to him on the phone, receive an instant email confirmation, know your items are on the way as promised and show up neatly packaged.Originally Posted by PhilC
Bottom line?? If that's what you want and it makes you feel good, GO FOR IT!!
The recoil lug goes between the action front and the nut. Can't see it making any difference.
I have gone to an over sized lug to compensate for extra long threads on a re chambered barrel.
Did the job like I wanted.
Oz never gave nothing to the Tin Man, that he didn't already have.
Is truing the action face a hand tool thing or a lathe thing? Ive seen a gunsmith on the great tube using a lapping compound on the lugs.
If not can any gunsmith do it? I'm just not a fan of waiting a long time.
It's a lathe thing. The action will be indicated, A bit of dykem blueing will be
dabbed on the face, then a skim cut. Some will just check the face with an
indicator, but once chucked up, I still prefer to cut through the bluing to see
where I'm at. Now comes the lug . It should be one that is ground flat and
parallel. Next is the nut which is also turned or ground in a fixture, flat. This
would make all 4 mating surfaces pull the barrel tight and straight.
Keeping my bad Karma intact since 1952
Thanks. A close-ish gunsmith say $60 to true the receiver face but he says it's 2 months wait. I guess it would depend what the barrel wait times are.
I found this tool on brownells which would cost 100 dollars and I could do many actions. But it says Rem 700. (Regardless, it sure does look like it would do what people are describing.)
https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...449-44950.aspx
Precisely AND he's a site sponsor.
I contacted the vendor. He said he had the barrel id likely get in the shelf. Cerekote would only take a week. I'm guessing I'm not waiting two months to have the front of the receiver trued. The other gunsmith said I was wasting my money and he wouldn't do it.
Too bad you couldn't use a lapping compound to mate the receiver up to the trued barrel nut
Did you go with James @ NSS?
I use a Norton 4" round hone, smooth side to get the face of the nut and the face of the action smooth as glass. Doesn't remove much material on the fine side. Figure 8's and turn, figure 8's and turn slow even pressure with some penetrating oil or similar product. My preference is Kroil. Most of the time after I finish, the surfaces will lock when dry. Sometimes the machine marks are too deep but I still get it shmuth.
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
I spoke to the gent at nss but I havent actually bought it yet. I'm still paranoid I'll pick the one that doesnt fit in the stock. Thee diagrams only give one measurement at the muzzle 0.729. My current barrel is .755 near the thread protector and 1.040 near the barrel nut. I also want to have the tools I need in order.
I will probably look into that Norton round hone. Might be the best compromise.
Yeah I was going to mention getting a barrel wrench from James.
I have both a long and a short. I use the short more often with
my torque wrench, and the longer one if a nut gets stubborn.
Keeping my bad Karma intact since 1952
First I will see if I can actually get my round barrel nut off with a pipe wrench. Otherwise, I'll see what I can rent and what i can't rent will be bought at the lowest price + shipping.
PM sent to shaffe48.
Ditto.
Make sure you don't grab the recoil lug with the pipe wrench. I have seen pictures and it was ugly.
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
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