I have a 10 FCP-K, bottom bolt release and cocking indicator in .308. Awhile back I had lessened the trigger spring tension and the rifle worked fairly well. I then bought an Oryx chassis and was having extreme difficulties installing the barreled action into it. Oryx/MDT sent me a new chassis and Was having the same issue. I then figured the pin that held the trigger assy to the action was in backward and was binding. I flipped the pin and was able to easily install it. I had never removed that before so no clue as to how it was flipped.
While changing the pin, the trigger assy came apart and it took me awhile to figure out how it went back together. I am not sure I got it completely correct as now I have serious issues with the Accutrigger locking up. I set the spring tension to the max and it still makes no difference. It will lock up just closing the bolt.
Does anyone with this type of configuration have any pictures of trigger assy and especially where all springs go and their orientation. Not sure this is the problem, just making sure. I don't necessarily want to buy a new trigger for this as I am currently playing with my new 110 Precision in 6.5 CR.
Any clues?
Barry
Barry,
i am brand new to savage shooters. I noticed your thread. I am a novice with rifles. I have a savage 10T-SR purchased last year. I had the trigger pull weight dropped to ~ 10 ounces from 30 ozs. After putting the trigger assembly back on the action and testing the trigger the sear will not move with or without the sear spring. I have a bottom bolt release. i cannot locate any videos or photos that may help. Likewise i am not sure of the orientation of the sear spring.
Thanks!
Here ya go. Not disassembly, but you can see the how the spring is oriented.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LTEJb5CQQTg
Edit: Found this pic that was posted by one of the members here.
So according to that video I have the accutrigger installed correctly. The pin that holds it to the action on the video is how mine was set up but would not fit into the Oryx chassis and I had to reverse it.
This still makes no sense on why I cannot make the accutrigger work better even when tension is added to make trigger pull stiffer. Only thing I can think of is the sear is worn and just will not hold. I have 1235 +/- through this rifle, did not keep good records for the first 100/300 but am close.
Barry
Does the trigger work when the action is out of the stock?
Vietnam Vet, Jun 66 - Dec 67
Works the same whether or not it is in the chassis. I was having this problem also in the accustock.
Barry
So, what is the exact problem you are having with the action out of stock? Please explain in detail.
It works the same whether in the stock or not. The trigger pull is so light, even when adjusted for a heavier trigger pull or lightest. Adjust all the way light, it will not stay cocked and with it adjusted as heavily as it can it will barely stay cocked. Not sure if the sear engagement surfaces are worn down, but with less than 2000 rounds I would think it should still work. I may end up going with an aftermarket trigger but I would like this one to work.Originally Posted by Dave Hoback
Barry
I will guess that the sear return spring is not installed correctly.
Does the bolt release feel normal when releasing the bolt? The sear spring sounds like it is not returning the sear with full spring force.
Do you have pictures of the sear spring in place as you reinstalled it?
That is something that I was wondering when the accutrigger fell apart on me and I was trying to put it back together with little to go on but some adjustment videos on youtube. I will take some pics tomorrow morning and post them.
Barry
Go to Utube and check the social regressive. He has accurized his Savage and shows in one of his videos how to polish and fix trigger problems. His video shows complete disassembly and reassembly of the accue trigger.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VxC6V9482tI&t=184s
Here are the pics for my accutrigger
OP-
Question- Is your trigger blade red or steel colored? It looks kind of pale red. If red, you have a target AccuTrigger and may change answers here.
From what it appears the sear return spring is correct.
The sear itself looks "ugly". The mfg process of this part appears to be; laser cut, stamped to shape, heat treated and finally machining of sear surface. Not much left to machine in this case for whatever reason. I could be wrong on the process (sharpshooter probably knows exactly).
Maybe there are others on here that can verify with pictures what their sear looks like. I don't have a bottom bolt release but the top release sears have never looked that "crude".
Everything looks correct. Still having trouble understanding exactly what’s happening. In your first post you said it keeps locking up. Then you talked about it not fitting in the chassis. Now you are saying it’s too light? What do you mean too light? Do you mean the sear is tripping on its own, thus being caught by the safety blade? Is that the “locking up”.
And if so, will this happen as it sits like in the photos? Out of the chassis or stock? So taking the barreled action, you rack the bolt which sets the trigger ready to fire. And it won’t stay cocked? The sear will trip easily?
If this is the case, let me ask one other question. Is there anything you haven’t told us? Did you at any point try polishing the trigger or sear surfaces? I ask, because if what I’m asking is the case, it does sound like the trigger components are work enough to not stay engaged. On a regular trigger, this would be considered an unsafe condition. Just if it’s happening out of the stock, and by the photos everything looks to put together properly...this points to the only cause being the sear & trigger surfaces.
Don't meddle Dave.Is there anything you haven’t told us?
LOL!Don't meddle Dave.
The only thing I have done to this trigger is to adjust the trigger pull weight using the supplied too.
When trying to put this action into an Oryx chassis, I found that the pin holding the trigger assy to the action needed to be flipped around to fit.
No polishing of anything has been done.
Even with the adjustment spring set as heavy as I can get it, it will not stay cocked, the sear releases against the accutrigger blade and locks up requiring me to lift the bolt and re-cock. 9 out of ten times it will again release on its own.
Barry
Gotchya. Lastly, is it happening with the pin in either way? If so, and if this happens in or out of the stock, than it requires a new new sear, trigger or both.
The pin shoulder on one side or the other should not matter...although I’ve never really tested it. Never had the need.
The edge of the sear is damaged, from what I see in the pic.
"As long as there's lead in the air....there's still hope.."
What could cause the damage to the sear edge and would less than 1500 rounds with the trigger pull set light be enough to damage it?
Can the trigger assy be purchased anywhere but Savage and will they sell it to a non gunsmith?
Would an aftermarket trigger be better than stock?
And...Go
Barry
The sear has to be sold to a gunsmith.
There is another option, a Jard.
https://www.jardinc.com/savage-centerfire
Cheap they are not, but I love mine.
I gave an ELF trigger to my father, but that is just the trigger, no sear. The Jard is a drop in like your more common AR type triggers or even 700 style triggers. It has everything you need.
(I know nothing of the accutrigger. I handled one new rifle with it, hated the feel and never touched it again.)
Take a breath.........You probably don't need a trigger or a sear, just a touch up with a stone. But if that's above your pay grade, I understand. What caused it? Who knows at this point, I'd focus on a cure rather than the cause.
"As long as there's lead in the air....there's still hope.."
Exactly. I made a jig to hold at the proper angle and use Water stones to bring the surfaces parallel to one another. But even by hand, you can achieve a pretty flat surface. Just don’t Dremel!
Or look around...I’m sure you can find someonewith the know how, to stone the parts for free. Maybe even do a full trigger mod if you ask.
As much as I love the Accu trigger on the savages, I changed out the trigger to a Timney trigger.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Timney-638-...72.m2749.l2649
The Accu trigger on my 12 F/V was able to adjust down to 1.2 Lb , but if I did not have even finger pressure on the trigger blade it would some times trip the sear before the safety lever would position it's self and cause the trigger to lock up and need to be re cocked with the bolt. Not a big deal but just a pain sometimes.
BTW, some material removal of the internal stock may be required (as indicated by others).
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