Savage 110 pre accu Sav-1

[Robinhood]

Something is causing the binding. To me it sounds like the action screw needs to be shortened and I would look at maybe removing some material from the stock. Savage stocks have been notorious for having action screws bottom out on the action. I normally remove about a turn and a half from the action screws.

If I am understanding what you are saying. The screw is too long and it is affecting the trigger function. If the rear screw is too long it will prortude into the bolt raceway either binding the bolt or not allow the bolt to go into the action. The trigger will not work because the bolt will not go into the action or it is bound up? Then by removing 1/16th" the bolt will now be unobstructed and the trigger will now work. Am I getting that right?


I have had front screws hit the bolt head by being too long. I have yet to see one bottom out.

[jpdown]

Remove some wood right above the rear trigger guard screw. Most likely the rear arm of the trigger assembly is contacting the stock and being pushed upward as you torque down the action. Remove the trigger guard and look to see if there is enough clearance.

[mnbogboy2]

Robinhood & jpdown are making good points. The rear action screw, if too long, would interfere with the bolt. 4 threads is normal for the rear screw and 6 or 8 turns would still not protrude though. Rear action screw length on a Savage/Stevens is very forgiving and rarely a problem.
Jpdown suggestion is the most plausible explanation. The overtravel screw on the non accutrigger RB trigger or the trigger return spring adjustment on the accutrigger version, or very back of the trigger itself may be "just" touching the stock when the stock is torqued down. Also look at the length of the rear trigger guard "wood" screw. The new B&C fiberglass stock may be slimmer than the factory stock & the sharp tip of that screw may also be reaching the trigger or pushing fiberglass towards it.
The trigger guard itself should be examined for touch points on the trigger shoe, but the RB trigger usually has been good here from what i have witnessed.

A good test would be to torque it down in the original stock. The RB trigger may also interfere with the wood but it then can be narrowed down to the fit of the trigger in the stock. I've installed several RB-Sav1s and had to remove a little material in a few of those installs.
Good luck

[Ted_Feasel]

C'mon give a homey some credit lol

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[Elktrout3wt]

Shot it tonight with some brass washers that I got at Ace. I put them under the new trigger guard, so between the stock and the trigger guard. Everything works as it should! The action screws were binding it up. The gun shot great even with the steady wind. I haven’t hit anything with loctite yet. Once I have a nice calm day I will get the torque driver and loctite out to set it all up right. Thanks for the help and trouble shooting with me guys. Next project is getting the damn bolt apart on my 22-250 12fv...

[Ted_Feasel]

Shot it tonight with some brass washers that I got at Ace. I put them under the new trigger guard, so between the stock and the trigger guard. Everything works as it should! The action screws were binding it up. The gun shot great even with the steady wind. I haven’t hit anything with loctite yet. Once I have a nice calm day I will get the torque driver and loctite out to set it all up right. Thanks for the help and trouble shooting with me guys. Next project is getting the damn bolt apart on my 22-250 12fv...

The main pin that hold the bolt face in can be stubborn and just watch out for springs and balls dont go flying:) other than that its pretty straight forward.

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[Fuj']

I haven’t hit anything with loctite yet. Once I have a nice calm day I will get the torque driver and loctite

Never been a fan of Loctite on action screws, but if you do, get Loctite 222 (purple)
It's meant for aluminum and brass screws. It's more then enough hold strength.

[Elktrout3wt]

The main bolt is all I’m looking take off. My bolt handle has a small manufacturing defect. Doesn’t affect anything but me knowing it’s there. Haha

So not a fan of loctite? What do people generally use? I know the rifle basixs trigger recommend that or nail polish.

[Ted_Feasel]

The main bolt is all I’m looking take off. My bolt handle has a small manufacturing defect. Doesn’t affect anything but me knowing it’s there. Haha

So not a fan of loctite? What do people generally use? I know the rifle basixs trigger recommend that or nail polish.

99 of a 100 times just proper torque will keep it and occasionally go through and check your spec. . If you loc it like the one gentleman said use purple or removable

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[mnbogboy2]

The main bolt is all I’m looking take off. My bolt handle has a small manufacturing defect. Doesn’t affect anything but me knowing it’s there. Haha

So not a fan of loctite? What do people generally use? I know the rifle basixs trigger recommend that or nail polish.

Agreeing with others, no loctite on the action screws. Properly torqued with pillars in the stock will keep them tight. Wood stocks without pillars require re-torque periodically if they were loctited they would be "loose" if the stock shrank.

Yes put a little "blue" loctite or nail polish on the RB trigger adjustment screws. I just pulled apart & readjusted an old Rem trigger that I nail polished over 30 years ago when I adjusted it at new. The nail polish held fast all that time with thousands of shots through the rifle.