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Thread: Scope mounting levels

  1. #1
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    Scope mounting levels


    I use a pair of magnetic bubble levels to help mount my rifle scopes. One level sits on a flat surface on the rifle, the other on the flat top of the scope. What I realized yesterday is that my Axis has no flat surface, so it makes it difficult to get a secure level. What have others done with this issue?

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    Basic Member SageRat Shooter's Avatar
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    Although it's not perfect, I used my wheeler bubble levels the one that is totally flat (usually the one that goes on top of the elevation turret) I tried to find the flattest surface around the safety. I have a Boyd's prairie hunter on my axis, and there is just enough area there to lay the bubble level across it. It's not exactly perfect, but it is closer than I could get it before. Then I plum the scope to the plumb line. I don't use the bubble level on top of the turret.

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    I have a pretty fool proof way of leveling scopes.. take a straight edge, very rigid one, place edge flat on rail and move scope till it is flat on other edge. This will work with most scopes.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 8mm RUM View Post
    That would definitely be a nice little rig to own.

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    I install the mounts on the rails, remove caps from rings level the gun in a home made holder. using the scope 1/2 rings as a level point. Install a scope level on the barrel. Install scope in rings using top turret. level the scope with the level that I installed on the barrel. Then I go to the range zero the scope to 100 yards. Fire 3 rounds at a dot at the bottom of the target. then dial 10 MOA up and again fire at the dot using a 24 inch level check to see if its tracking level. This is more confusing to write than to do.

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    Quote Originally Posted by azguy View Post
    I install the mounts on the rails, remove caps from rings level the gun in a home made holder. using the scope 1/2 rings as a level point. Install a scope level on the barrel. Install scope in rings using top turret. level the scope with the level that I installed on the barrel. Then I go to the range zero the scope to 100 yards. Fire 3 rounds at a dot at the bottom of the target. then dial 10 MOA up and again fire at the dot using a 24 inch level check to see if its tracking level. This is more confusing to write than to do.
    Makes sense, if its canted at all your windage position would change

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    I like Talley mounts and use them as a rifle leveling point. Then I use a string hung from a door opening across the house and level the scope with the reticle.

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    Believe it or not aeroprecisions mounts are really awesome you don't get any scope role as you tighten them

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    Basic Member Robinhood's Avatar
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    A great place to start. Bagged in with a square level on the butt-stock pad screws and a plumb bob at range to get the vertical line true to finish.
    The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Robinhood View Post


    A great place to start. Bagged in with a square level on the butt-stock pad screws and a plumb bob at range to get the vertical line true to finish.
    I watched a video where a guy used a plumb Bob at home and using a very bright light, shined in objective lense projecting the cross hairs on the wall.. of course rifle is also level but i though about trying it one day

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ted_Feasel View Post
    I watched a video where a guy used a plumb Bob at home and using a very bright light, shined in objective lense projecting the cross hairs on the wall.. of course rifle is also level but i though about trying it one day

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    Another seat taken on the bandwagon. lol

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    Quote Originally Posted by yobuck View Post
    Another seat taken on the bandwagon. lol
    Lol yep:) have you seen that method? I'm guessing you have:)

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    I usually use rails on almost all of my rifles so I'll put the level on it to level the rifle. Then use a combination of level on the turret and a plumb line hanging about 25 yards away to align the reticle with. Can be a little time consuming because the rings can rotate the scope slightly as you're torquing them down. I alternate tightening the screws to help alleviate that as much as possible but still usually takes some tweaking back and forth to get it level.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ted_Feasel View Post
    Lol yep:) have you seen that method? I'm guessing you have:)

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    No i havent seen it. I dont really believe in attempting to fix things unless their broken.
    Im not saying a properly installed scope isnt inportant, but i dont believe any special tools are required either.
    Same with levels attached to the scope, i think they are a waste also, as well as the incline angle gadgets.

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    Quote Originally Posted by yobuck View Post
    No i havent seen it. I dont really believe in attempting to fix things unless their broken.
    Im not saying a properly installed scope isnt inportant, but i dont believe any special tools are required either.
    Same with levels attached to the scope, i think they are a waste also, as well as the incline angle gadgets.
    I've never trusted levels as far a precision goes, the is room to be off. I recokon some levels are more precise than others but the video I watched was pretty cool, if you can ensure the rifle is level it pretty fool proof

    https://www.thefirearmblog.com/blog/...scope-reticle/

    There is a article on it, ill post the video when I find it again for anyone thats interested. It really is a pretty good method imo

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    A one piece Weaver style scope mounting base gives you a flat for your magnetic level, depending on your scope/ring
    height. If that does not work, you are SOL!

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    What i don't care for , you typically have what about a 1/8th inch on both sides between the lines and the bubble.. not the most precise for long distances I wouldn't think.. i have some larger levels that are more precise but would like to have a couple really small ones that I know are as well.

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    It comes down to the shooting, and how you go about doing it.
    A bipod sitting on a solid surface like a bench is one thing, but resting on the ground could be another thing.
    Ok so lets say your shot at 600 yds is off by 6”, how can you be sure it wasent caused by wind?
    Or a combination of wind and shooter error?
    And what does it matter anyway why it was off? Fact is it was off.
    If you want to be more precise, find a more precise way to shoot.

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    Quote Originally Posted by yobuck View Post
    It comes down to the shooting, and how you go about doing it.
    A bipod sitting on a solid surface like a bench is one thing, but resting on the ground could be another thing.
    Ok so lets say your shot at 600 yds is off by 6”, how can you be sure it wasent caused by wind?
    Or a combination of wind and shooter error?
    And what does it matter anyway why it was off? Fact is it was off.
    If you want to be more precise, find a more precise way to shoot.
    I understand that and agree, I just dont want to even have to wonder if its a 3rd possibility. It can be difficult to judge if it was me already so the more possibilities I elimimate the easier it makes it to know it was my bad wind call.

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    Quote Originally Posted by yobuck View Post
    No i havent seen it. I dont really believe in attempting to fix things unless their broken.
    Im not saying a properly installed scope isn't inmportant, but i dont believe any special tools are required either.
    Same with levels attached to the scope, i think they are a waste also, as well as the incline angle gadgets.
    If your shooting at 50 yards your somewhat correct. You may want to check out what canted angle will do to your accuracy. Hold at a small target at what you believe to be rectical level. Slightly tip the gun just as small amount as you can and see where your aim point goes to.

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    Quote Originally Posted by azguy View Post
    If your shooting at 50 yards your somewhat correct. You may want to check out what canted angle will do to your accuracy. Hold at a small target at what you believe to be rectical level. Slightly tip the gun just as small amount as you can and see where your aim point goes to.
    I have a angle finder on one of my extended range rifles.. by no means a necessity but you can use it on extreme long range to get you verticle , doesn't do crap for windage and thats where most including myself make the most errors. It does really help when your shot is far enough that you don't have enough adjustment in your scope or range of view. I still have never dinged one that far but it my windage that I couldn't call correctly

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  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by azguy View Post
    If your shooting at 50 yards your somewhat correct. You may want to check out what canted angle will do to your accuracy. Hold at a small target at what you believe to be rectical level. Slightly tip the gun just as small amount as you can and see where your aim point goes to.
    None of that is in question. What is in question is what we deem necessary in order to prevent that.
    There is a long history of people using scope sighted rifles to hit things at great distances.
    But now were being led to believe that cant be done without using newly created gadgets for installing and attaching to the scopes we use.
    If the old way works for me then it works, and i see no reason to change till it stops working.
    As for shooting, we shoot out to 1500 yds on a regular bases, and about every distance in between.
    What we dont do is waste much ammo shooting at closer distance for group.
    Again, none of these gadgets were available many years ago when we started shooting like this and we havent needed them.
    But then im so hard headed i dont use a GPS to find my way back to PA either. lol

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