RCBS powder measure

[Mr.Snerdly]

I have the manual Uniflow measure. I have been weighing every charge but I finally decided if they were as accurate as what I heard, it would save time. The long and the short of it is, I can't get any kind of consistency out of it. Of course, with this RCBS electronic scale it is hard to tell how far off. I am not knocking the scale, it was included in the reloading kit but I often thought if it is no more accurate than that they should either not include it or put a better scale in the kit and charge a little more. I think the powder measure is off a good full grain quite a few times. According to the scale, it can be off 2 grains but usually the scale acts up and I don't think it is quite that bad. I am using Varget powder if that makes a difference. My little Lee beam scale got knocked off the bench and broke and I won't have another one for about 3 days, assuming you can believe the reported arrival date.

I try to operate the measure the same each time but maybe I am missing something. Any advice would be appreciated.

It seems a lot of these things don't quite work out like they do on Youtube for me.

[Bill2905]

If your goal is precision target shooting, volumetric powder measures are not going to give you the repeatability that you need. They are quick and good enough for loading pistol or rifle cartridges where production rate is more important than precision. They certainly have their place on a reloading bench. I use a volumetric meter on my Lee turret press for handgun ammo.

One method you can try is to use your Uniflow to throw most of the desired powder charge and then trickle in the remaining fraction of a grain manually on a scale. That may save you some time.

I ended up investing in a RCBS Chargemaster Lite when I realized how much time I was spending weighing powder onto a scale.

[Txhillbilly]

Unless you using ball type powder's,none of the powder drop style dispenser's will be right on each charge. Extruded type powder's don't fall uniformly into the dispensing chamber,so each drop weight will be different. That's just the way they work.

I also gave up on the electronic powder dispenser's,I've tried RCBS,Lyman,Hornady,and Smart brands. They all over/under throw charges,yet the scale will show the weight that you programmed into it. It always took me more time to load my precision loads with an electronic dispenser,than it did doing it by had with a manual powder drop,and trickle in the last few kernel's of powder into the pan on my beam scale.

There is one electronic powder dispenser that works,but it cost around $1k for the A&D FX-120i scale and Autotrickler V3 unit. I can load a lot of cartridges by hand for $1k.

[Bill2905]

I also gave up on the electronic powder dispenser's,I've tried RCBS,Lyman,Hornady,and Smart brands. They all over/under throw charges,yet the scale will show the weight that you programmed into it. It always took me more time to load my precision loads with an electronic dispenser,than it did doing it by had with a manual powder drop,and trickle in the last few kernel's of powder into the pan on my beam scale.

When making random checks with the beam scale, I estimate that the Chargemaster Lite can throw light or heavy by roughly 0.05 grains. I have no way to measure that small but typically observe deflection on the balance beam that is a third to half of what I observe for 0.1 grains. That's good enough for most days at the range but I'm realizing that for precise load development work, I will need to break out the Lee dippers and manually trickle my charges. I dislike the monotony of weighing charges but there are some things for which there are no shortcuts.

The other drawback to electronic dispensers is the required warmup time, typically 20-30 minutes to be safe.

[Robinhood]

The last movement you see is a single kernel of 4064. (Scott Parker tuned Redding scale)


https://c.gmx.com/@55827675308097537...QqqaBqKD3pinSQ

[yobuck]

Years back the old Lyman 55 powder measure tuned up by someone like Neil Jones was a favorite among benchrest shooters.
He could also really tune up a Remington trigger.
About 40 or more years ago i paid a visit to a Varmit class benchrest match being held at a range in Wapwalopen Pa.
Which is very close to Nescopec, home of Robt. W. Hart and sons, today known as Hart Rifles.
In fact for many years they ran the range at Wapwalopen, but i guess when Wally became CEO it became more than his busy schedule could handle.
I was just there to observe, with the idea it might interest me. The range was about 100 miles from where i lived at that point.
Anyway they had a pavilion type structure there used by the shooters for various things including loading. I was very surprised seeing some of them just dumping powder directly into the case without weighing it. I remember questioning one of them about it and he said that a very small amount didnt really matter, the powder measure was accurate enough. But they all were using a seating die with an Arbor press for seating their bullets.
No resizing was done at all, just a new primer, dump the powder, and seat the new bullet. Some were also dumping powder from small containers directly into the cases, apparently pre weighed at home.
Im convinced much of what we believe about this has more to do with our individual minds than anything else.
Freds logo says it best in my opinion, (as long as lead is in the air anything is possible.)
But i would add that in the rare event of a miss, be sure to get more in the air asap, rather than wasting time contemplating why you missed.
As long as it ends well, it dosent matter anyway for many of us. What others do or think is for them to deal with.

[Nor Cal Mikie]

I think what it boils down to is "If you like it and it makes you feel good, GO FOR IT"!!

[Ted_Feasel]

I have the manual Uniflow measure. I have been weighing every charge but I finally decided if they were as accurate as what I heard, it would save time. The long and the short of it is, I can't get any kind of consistency out of it. Of course, with this RCBS electronic scale it is hard to tell how far off. I am not knocking the scale, it was included in the reloading kit but I often thought if it is no more accurate than that they should either not include it or put a better scale in the kit and charge a little more. I think the powder measure is off a good full grain quite a few times. According to the scale, it can be off 2 grains but usually the scale acts up and I don't think it is quite that bad. I am using Varget powder if that makes a difference. My little Lee beam scale got knocked off the bench and broke and I won't have another one for about 3 days, assuming you can believe the reported arrival date.

I try to operate the measure the same each time but maybe I am missing something. Any advice would be appreciated.

It seems a lot of these things don't quite work out like they do on Youtube for me.

Varget is notoriously bad in powder drops. Most stick powder dont drop very well. I have a set of digitals i have come to trust, they are accurate to .05 of a grain. I do still use my lee beams to verify now and again. Ive heard many claim you dont need that degree of accuracy and the 1/10th is as accurate as anyone would ever need but I dont know if I buy into that.

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[yobuck]

Buy a set of the Lee scoops for about $15 bucks then trickle them on a beam scale.
Fact is if you time the process to some of the others, it isnt as silly as it sounds.

[Nor Cal Mikie]

Been using a RCBS Uniflow for years with no issues. Picked up an electronic RCBS powder measure and thought I'd give it a try. Watch it for about 15 minutes while it went up and and tried to settle down. Took me just about that long to load it back into the box it came in and sell it to someone that wanted it more than I did.
My RCBS Uniflow powder measure doesn't drift EVER and no worries about the power going off either.

[Txhillbilly]

Buy a set of the Lee scoops for about $15 bucks then trickle them on a beam scale.
Fact is if you time the process to some of the others, it isnt as silly as it sounds.

That's what I've always used to trickle powder into the powder pan. They work great!

Been using a RCBS Uniflow for years with no issues. Picked up an electronic RCBS powder measure and thought I'd give it a try. Watch it for about 15 minutes while it went up and and tried to settle down. Took me just about that long to load it back into the box it came in and sell it to someone that wanted it more than I did.
My RCBS Uniflow powder measure doesn't drift EVER and no worries about the power going off either.

Yep,I've been using a Uniflow and Redding BR3 for many years. It takes me 8 - 10 seconds to drop a charge into the pan,set it on the scale,trickle remaining powder,and dump the charge into a case.
The electric dispenser's take about the same amount time just to throw an incorrect charge.

[Stumpkiller]

That's what I do. Use my ancient Lyman 55 (or a home made pistol cartridge case dipper with a wire handle) to drop a light load into the pan of my beam scale and then trickle in a few grains and fractions additional get the load.

Saves a little time if you are loading a lot.

[GaCop]

Buy a set of the Lee scoops for about $15 bucks then trickle them on a beam scale.
Fact is if you time the process to some of the others, it isnt as silly as it sounds.

Been dong it that way for more than 30 years.

[Ted_Feasel]

I've just ways went for about half grain under and then trickle to the exact point I want.

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[Ted_Feasel]

I've decided to machine a new set of bearings for my ohaus 5-0-5... the little free floating v blocks.. what a cannot decide is if I should use stainless, aluminum or some other metal or if I should use nylatron.. im kind of thinking nylatron because it is ultra slick and may offer the least friction.. anyone have any opinions or even better suggestions?

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[Robinhood]

I've decided to machine a new set of bearings for my ohaus 5-0-5... the little free floating v blocks.. what a cannot decide is if I should use stainless, aluminum or some other metal or if I should use nylatron.. im kind of thinking nylatron because it is ultra slick and may offer the least friction.. anyone have any opinions or even better suggestions?

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Send me one and I will PMI the material

[Ted_Feasel]

Send me one and I will PMI the material

The nylatron?.. will do.. pm me where to send it. It is extremely tough stuff, I remember making a nut (the part that holds the guitar strings at the tuning end of the neck) and went through 2 belts on my belt sander honing its final shape.

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[charlie b]

I thought they used jewels/stones. Ruby, agate, etc.

[Ted_Feasel]

I thought they used jewels/stones. Ruby, agate, etc.

I am not sure what the factory material is, it seems like it may be a high impact plastic or similar but i really don't know.. it didn't feel stone like.

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[Robinhood]

I thought they used jewels/stones. Ruby, agate, etc.

You may be thinking of Jeweled movement/bearings. Often found on things like indicators and watches. Interesting thought. The load might be a bit high for something like that. I always wondered what a high precision, small ball, frictionless bearing mounted to self align would do. The engineers seem to like the knife edges though so there must be a reason.

[Fuj']

I've decided to machine a new set of bearings for my ohaus 5-0-5... the little free floating v blocks.. what a cannot decide is if I should use stainless, aluminum or some other metal or if I should use nylatron.. im kind of thinking nylatron because it is ultra slick and may offer the least friction.. anyone have any opinions or even better suggestions?

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Ted.....Delrin impregnated with teflon. I was using the stuff for wear plates,
specifically for MC and ATV drive chain guides.

As for can of worms !! Concentricity is part of the puzzle. When Lee came out
with their dead length seater, I gave it a try. I bought it new for $18 bucks.
I bought another for my 7mm wild cat, I liked it that much......Also. don't forget
about uniforming your primer pockets and flash holes. And never forget the most
important of all....."YOU" I just hate it when I head out with the most confident
ammo I can prepare, then have one of those "I sucked moments" !!

[Ted_Feasel]

Ted.....Delrin impregnated with teflon. I was using the stuff for wear plates,
specifically for MC and ATV drive chain guides.

As for can of worms !! Concentricity is part of the puzzle. When Lee came out
with their dead length seater, I gave it a try. I bought it new for $18 bucks.
I bought another for my 7mm wild cat, I liked it that much......Also. don't forget
about uniforming your primer pockets and flash holes. And never forget the most
important of all....."YOU" I just hate it when I head out with the most confident
ammo I can prepare, then have one of those "I sucked moments" !!

I definitely agree , good ammo is imperative as far as I'm concerned.. i prefer to aim for consistent loads and concentric loads.
I just expected I whole lot of opinions to ring in lol

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[yobuck]

Ted.....Delrin impregnated with teflon. I was using the stuff for wear plates,
specifically for MC and ATV drive chain guides.

As for can of worms !! Concentricity is part of the puzzle. When Lee came out
with their dead length seater, I gave it a try. I bought it new for $18 bucks.
I bought another for my 7mm wild cat, I liked it that much......Also. don't forget
about uniforming your primer pockets and flash holes. And never forget the most
important of all....."YOU" I just hate it when I head out with the most confident
ammo I can prepare, then have one of those "I sucked moments" !!

Dosent matter Fui, so long as you send another one right now before the i sucked thing takes over. lol
That Delran stuff does help for doing that though, especially for things like return to battery parts on the rest.
We cant always improve upon how well we shoot, but we can find ways to improve upon the way we shoot.

[Ted_Feasel]

Just a little demo, these are really good digitals, i have had unbelievable repeatability with them

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[Ted_Feasel]

Just a little demo, these are really good digitals, i have had unbelievable repeatability with them

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Sorry that was supposed to be a video

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