Reply With QuoteSharpshooter competed with a Savage, but his skill level is above most. I believe it would be cheaper to buy a used BR rifle, but not as much fun!
Do a google search, there is a site that specializes in used BR rifles.
Bill
Anybody build a true single shot benchrest Savage based rifle capable of competing in LV or HV? I’m thinking something 6 BR or maybe 6PPC. How did it shoot? Competitive?
...or should I just be searching for a used benchrest rifle?
Sharpshooter competed with a Savage, but his skill level is above most. I believe it would be cheaper to buy a used BR rifle, but not as much fun!
Do a google search, there is a site that specializes in used BR rifles.
Bill
Used BR rifle. Buy it with the assumption that it will need re-barreled. You mentioned wanting it to be competitive. You will have to go a ways to find a competitive shooter using any action we consider factory.
Good luck. BR is a disease that’s ended in divorce more than once.
First off, it'll still be a Savage and IMHO, you'll have to put a lot of work and $$$ into it to get it to compete with better rigs built for bench rest shooting. I don't compete. I just love shooting bug holes.
All my rigs are single shot or set up as single shots with adapters and all are fitted with bench rest style stocks. Most are in the 15 pound + range. Think fence post stocks.
My first preference would be a 6 BR with a no turn neck (more shooting and less messing with brass) Load it and go shoot bug holes, to the point it gets pretty boring. Consider taking another rig with you to shoot.
I can shoot 5 shot groups, from the bench, that can be covered with a dime. Competitive? Depends on who you're trying to impress or compete against.
Oz never gave nothing to the Tin Man, that he didn't already have.
Try here. (http://www.benchrest.com/shooterscorner/)
Oz never gave nothing to the Tin Man, that he didn't already have.
_.
Yes, I have built savages base on savage trued target action in 308 and 6.5 creedmoor. The 308 is shilen barreled, the creedmoor is criterion. Both are sickeningly accurate. On the shilen barrel i bought the select 416R match that is hand lapped, the criterion is hand lapped as well. Both are mirror finish bores. When I drive a wet patch down the shilen, it sings like when you take a wet finger around a crystal wine glass, both take a wet patch, soak for 10 min, 5 strokes of a nylon brush , another wet patch, then a dry patch, then a oiled patch and they are clean.Originally Posted by nksmfamjp
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The Savage can be competitive, given one’s skill set of course. It’s like anything else. Take the Top Level marksmen competing, against a decent amateur. Give the Top Level shooter a Savage & the amateur the absolute BEST rig made. Who’s your money gonna be on?
I don’t compete in Benchrest...never have. I was into USPSA at a younger age, but I found I was a far better instructor/builder/tinkerer, rather than competitor. There are those who seemingly possess Super Human eyesight, stillness, control, etc. Being paralyzed of one arm, and blind of one eye..... I’m not close to one of them! I can say without a shadow of doubt that the Savages I build are far more accurate than I. Although a truly gifted marksman will not handicap himself. It would be unwise to in competition.
So decide where you are. I don’t BUY firearms anymore. I build my own. And regardless of my Savage not being a top rig, I have received far enjoyment with this path than if I had purchased the best. Go with what your heart tells you.
Savage built one. The Savage F-class might be better because of the stock design though.
12 BR model 6 BR
Model 12 FClass 6 BR
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
Everytime I think about what I have to deal with I look at this guy.
https://c.gmx.com/@55827675308097537...SkCNAQah4kIwzw
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
Big can of worms....LOL I see you listed LV and HV. Weight of your
rifle will be most of your determining factor. That Savage F-class
rifle is a sweet heart for a factory build. But remember, some of these
cannons are over 20 lbs, and not going to meet Varmint rules. Choice
of your optics is also a huge factor. I know guy's spent the bank on a
truly accurate piece only to have a hard time making weight because
the optics planned, tipped the scales the wrong way. Been there.
Keeping my bad Karma intact since 1952
You're not kidding there I spent twice what are the build cost on the optics on one of them
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Anything can be done if you are determined to do it.
I have done 2 and have changed barrels a few times to see what caliber suits it best for me.
First thing get your action t&t'd and find a good trigger ( but the accu trigger will work), then a good stock (McMillan-Edge), next good glass and light weight bases and rings. Don't forget a good barrel, I have tried those mentioned but now I choose ABC for my barrels, and I have found that you can squeeze a little more out of it if the barrel looses the nut ( shouldered).
Now for the BAD part COST for one I spent almost $3500 shoots great and is competitive I haven't won but I compete. 30BR
The other is still a work in progress I have a new barrel coming so I can make weight, 6 BR so far approaching $3000.
I also have a custom built on a Kelby that I bought used, complete rifle nothing needed cost me $2000, low round count and I finished 3rd first time out.
So it all depends on you and how much you are willing to spend and or do. Me I am stubborn and retired with more time than money but found out what it cost to build a Savage to compete isn't worth it unless you want experience building one. Sometimes a custom is cheaper and a better choice.
Bring on the flame throwers.
FROGGY
See profile for fire arms
Do it today there maybe no tomorrow
That would be a great place to spend an hour or so just browsing around.
If you're talking about traditional NBRSA/IBS 100-300 yd. real Benchrest (with a capital 'B').....save your time and money.
Can they shoot small groups? Yes. Can they put enough of those small groups together for a winning Aggregate?
No.
I would offer up that the relatively heavy bolt lift will be one of the biggest challenges. Even with a worked over action and bolt lift kit installed, it's going to be hard to run the bolt quickly without disturbing the gun in the bags.
FTR in 223, BA LE Tactical in 308, 110 Flatback in CBI 6mmBR Norma, Others
Absolutely correct!
I don't know if this is right, but I might have a Savage Model 12 BR 6BR I'd part with, ?
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On my target action, the bolt lift is really easy, when watching through the scope you barely see movement. Can you tell I'm a savage target action whore lol
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Ted, what all did you have done to the action to get to that smooth? I've got a worked over target action with a bolt lift kit, and another bolt kit on another rifle, and lift still isn't anywhere close to the one or two finger lift that some other actions allow.
FTR in 223, BA LE Tactical in 308, 110 Flatback in CBI 6mmBR Norma, Others
When I ordered it, it just was like that. I got it from northlandshootersupply.com , I don't know if they trick it out or anything but it was smooth right out of the packaging.
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I specialize in big bore ARs so my bolt action knowledge base isn't where it should be but I know alot of the lift force is the cocking of the mechanism so maybe there in lies the key?
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I never had a problem with lift on my target action. I did however
remove most of that cannon ball on the bolt handle, and gave more
then a liberal treatment of dry-slide. Any of the guy's that I know
at the club, sport either a Bat or a Panda.
Keeping my bad Karma intact since 1952
Got one action T&Td. Never was happy with the results. A waste of $$ if you ask me AND I'll never do another one.
When the bolt lift on any of my savage actions is as easy as the lift on my Remington XP 100 action, I will be one happy shooter!!
Oz never gave nothing to the Tin Man, that he didn't already have.
Be creative...
https://www.accurateshooter.com/guns...ek/gunweek075/
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