Savage 10 308 to 7 WSM thoughts/advise please.

[Tahoe1305]

Hello all

my first post here but I joined to avoid re-inventing the wheel on something I’m sure someone has tried. I’ve searched the threads but couldn’t find an exact answer so figure a new post wouldn’t hurt.

I have a 15 year old savage 10FP LE1 in 308 with a choate stock that’s been sitting and I have always wanted a 7mm so figure it’s time for a face lift. Goal is a longer range hunting and target rig that is moderately light (<7lbs bare) and has 1000ft-lbs of energy at 1000yds (arbitrary I know but puts it enough above my current hunting rig to make the purchase worth it).

I have pretty much settled on 7 WSM because it appears as of this minute, brass is available from 3-4 manufacturers, there are two or three factory loads for it, and I can get a 100fps bump or so over SAUM (although I’m not against SAUM but I can’t find brass for it right now). It appears the savage action and AICS magazines can support 2.95” COALs which I believe is fine for up to about 175-180 gr bullets which is all I’m after in a SA. The thought of a 150-162gr ELDX makes me plenty happy.

Right now I’m targeting Carbon6 Sendero 25” prefit in 1:9 twist (42oz),XLR Element 3.0 in magnesium with smoke composite buttstock (30oz) and folding adapter. I believe I read that the savage SA weighs about 30oz for my estimating weight purposes.

The specific questions I have are:

1) Has anyone else made this conversion and can you confirm all I will need with the action/bolt is a PTG magnum bolt face ($70), an action wrench, barrel but wrench, barrel vice, and go/nogo gauges?

2) Is 2.95 COAL enough to get close to lands with SAAMI throated 7 WSM in 150-175gr bullets and is it possible with the newer powders (targeting RL26) to sneak 3300fps out of the 150 gr and 3150 out of the 160gr bullets loaded a bit long with a 25” barrel?

3) Any feedback in my component selection with XLR and Carbon6, please recommend others if you have them. Also would love a recommendation on a trigger upgrade for the savage.

4) Any last pushes towards another SA 7mm chambering that can get close to the stated objectives?

appreciate everyone’s help.

[loveha]

1) In the process of converting a Model 10 in 7mm-08 to 300WSM. What I needed was the magnum bolt head (PTG), small firing pin, and bolt head retaining pin for the small firing pin. My rifle is from 2001 and had the large firing pin and the PTG head is for small firing pin. Not sure when/what firing pins are what years/models.
I only bought the barrel nut wrench and action wrench from NSS. No need for a barrel vise. Wouldn't hurt to buy new lug and nut. Ordered my gauges from Manson.

3) Have the new ELF trigger, but need a new sear and my rifle and chassis is off for Cerakote so no input yet. If I can't get a sear for some reason I'm going to get a Jard as it is a complete trigger replacement, just wish they had a heavier option.

[yobuck]

The only at least potential problem i see, is the word hunting.
Much will pertain to where you hunt as to terrain etc. but theres even more.
We can shoot at targets at any distance we so choose, and our success doing that often establishes an opinion on our hunting distance limits.
We can research the balistics of a cartridge in order to select the proper one for our needs.
Modern Lazer rangefinders can easily give all the information needed for scope adjustments.
But the big difference is its a live target and not a rock or a paper target.
As a result, nothing works as well as when fun shooting at rocks or paper, and mistakes are more easily made.
We can lay on the ground and wiggle around till our body is in the proper position for the target.
But if the target is not where it was when you can finally take the shot, that could mean a bad hit instead of a kill shot.
So if were starting out at pretty much max range for the gun, what happens when your follow up shot is much further?
Its not uncommon when hunting, to be following a deer in your scope for 10 minits, and never have a decent shot before he goes over the top or out of site. Especially if he is chasing a doe.
Hail Mary shots with smaller cartridges at obsene distances can be fun so long as nothing is getting hurt.
But when hunting, start out with more gun than you need, because before its over you might.
Id be keeping the 308 for practice shooting, and buy or build a bigger one for the hunting.
Or rearrange your thoughts on the distance factor.

[Tahoe1305]

Fair enough. My personal hunting limit is 400yds. My tikka in 6.5C gets me their easy. But for elk and bigger game I want a bit more energy. I am assuming you are after my 1000 ft lbs at 1000yds....not intended hunting distance by any means, just a benchmark for higher BC bullets going a certain speed at the muzzle and ability to retain it at further distances. That’s just the benchmark I use on all my rifles for some reason.

thanks for input thus far.

[want2ride]

I don't have one, but my brother shoots 162 and 175's out of his 7mm WSM out of a factory savage sa magazine and IIRC he is at 3150 with both the 162 and 175 with RL26 and a shilen 26" barrel. he said that the 162 could go hotter, but it kicks a LOT with the higher load, same with the 175 at 3150, so the 162 at 3150 is his favorite.

[yobuck]

I don't have one, but my brother shoots 162 and 175's out of his 7mm WSM out of a factory savage sa magazine and IIRC he is at 3150 with both the 162 and 175 with RL26 and a shilen 26" barrel. he said that the 162 could go hotter, but it kicks a LOT with the higher load, same with the 175 at 3150, so the 162 at 3150 is his favorite.

Ive been using 7mms for long range hunting for about 50 years.
Our camp has no doubt had well over 100 buck kills using 162 gr Hornadys leaving the muzzle at speeds of 3400 fps.
BUT, when we start talking about distances of 1000 yds, and POSSIBLY, even further, that changes everything.
If you want to talk about the heavier bullets available for them, you go right ahead and talk about them.
And while your at it, talk about the kills youve made with them also.
Yes it can be, and beyond that it has been done many times.
There are also better choices today, and my advise would be to pick one.
If i were young and starting over today, i would own a 280 Rem for a walking around type gun, and either a 300 Norma or a 300 Ultra mag for the long shots with a 28” barrel weighing 15# or more on a custom single shot action.

[Robinhood]

Your firing pin is designed for a standard length bolt head. Get the standard 7/16 Length lug when you order a PTG. Measure your firing pin to make sure it is a good fit. If you have the large pin drilling the PTG out is not a problem. Set your protrusion @.035 - .044. It will fall in that range. Or buy a Savage Short Action Magnum complete bolt assembly.

If or when the bolt gets sticky you need to change brass or get a small base die if they make one. Get a brake, all that light weight stuff will punish you. An 8.5 twist may be better.

[darkker]

But for elk and bigger game I want a bit more energy. I am assuming you are after my 1000 ft lbs at 1000yds....not intended hunting distance by any means, just a benchmark for higher BC bullets going a certain speed at the muzzle and ability to retain it at further distances. That’s just the benchmark I use on all my rifles for some reason.

thanks for input thus far.

This is a bit of a tangent to your questions, but I think something you should reconsider.
I like you and I assume most folks at the beginning of their adventures, think that same way as that's what all the rags preach. As it relates to bullets and their operation, it's a nonsense invention.

Theoretical energy transfer means nothing to a bullets operation, the only thing that matters is velocity. Even the "softest" jacketed bullets don't reliable operate as intended below about 1700fps; and a good many are dodgy below 2,000 fps. There was an excellent test done some time ago, with photos of the bullets fired into deer.
Article was called: "The Best Hunting Bullet" by Gary Sciuchetti. May want to give it a look. Obviously bullets can kill before that, but when getting that far out, they don't work the way the KE gods would have you believe; and accuracy becomes Paramount.

Cheers

[Tahoe1305]

Agree with you on this and I appreciate the feedback. Again those numbers have less to do with hunting and more to do with me justifying to myself why I need a new gun (realty is my current gun is perfect for all the hunting I do). But alas I am bored and want to build something.

I’ll check out the article!

[grouse]

Have done this conversion on a couple rifles. Ptg bolt is your best option. The factory bolt head is thicker and needs a longer firing pin. I have a few extra parts you may need. Pm of interested. You’ll need a Mag and follower for sure.

[Tahoe1305]

Grouse I can’t seem to figure out how to PM you....maybe I don’t have the privileges yet. If you could PM me it would be appreciated.

[grouse]

I think you don’t have enough posts. Tried to pm you. I also have a spare 7mm wsm small shank barrel.

[Tahoe1305]

Guess so. I didn’t see a PM either....I am up on Rokslide and long range hunting forums as well under the same handle. Appreciate the help.