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  1. #1
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    Flat back trigger help

    Bought an older lh flat back off the classifieds on a different site. Must have slipped the sellers mind that the safety didn't work. need help identifying it so i can pull up how to work on it. Lastly if i have to ill just buy another i just need to know what will fit it.

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  2. #2
    Team Savage GaCop's Avatar
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    Only one adjustment for that trigger and that's a screw for the safety on the rear of the trigger, no other adjustments. Best bet is to bite the bullet and get the Rifle Basix 1 trigger and be done with it.
    Vietnam Vet, Jun 66 - Dec 67

  3. #3
    Basic Member Robinhood's Avatar
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    Never seen one of those. Fred or Jim may be of some assistance. Give them a chance to respond.

    As For the Sav1 GACOP, The sear is not correct nor is the trigger hanger. I don't know if this is a early gen or what.

    EDIT: Here is a link to your triggers adjustment. Made available by the forum owner by ?
    https://www.savageshooters.com/conte...ger-Adjustment

    The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.

  4. #4
    Basic Member Robinhood's Avatar
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    The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.

  5. #5
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    Pre-66. Does front of bolt look like the one on the bottom in pic below? If yes, see this FAQ topic - https://www.savageshooters.com/conte...ger-Adjustment

    Click image for larger version. 

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  6. #6
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    Wow.. that’s a new one on me as well. Never come across one. I guess pre ‘66, they are fairly scarce.

    Id say try to repair it, and keep this trigger. Bit of “coolness” factor there with the age of it. Looks like there are 2 adjustments to me. Perhaps it is simply out of adjustment. Unless I’m mistaken, it appears the “sear adjustment” screw is a cam head screw. Pushes up on the sear as turned. Now that is trick!

    I could work some magic playing with that style trigger, indeed.

  7. #7
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    Thanks guys. I actually took it apart and cleaned out the grime and dirt. It works fine now. Ive never seen one with 3 action screws last one being the painted red for the saftey. The bolt looks like the 3rd one down, kinda funky. Some one built a stock for it at some point. Shoots pretty good. Small pencil thin barrel perfect small rifle for my oldest daughter. (12 yo) Shes killed bigger deer than most grown men all doing it shooting right handed guns. Never really cared until this year at the range and seen a person with a left handed rifle. Her mind was blown. Lol thanks again guys.

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  8. #8
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    Glad it worked out for you, because the chances of getting the right parts to upgrade it is pretty slim. For that trigger, all the adjustments are in the safety bar. The screw closest to the rear is the safety engagement, while the one towards the front is for the safety slide adjustment. This takes out the up and down slop of the safety bar itself. The screw in the middle, with the plunger is the trigger pull weight. The down side of this, is that you have to disassemble this to make adjustments. The screw on the end of the trigger has NO sear adjustment capabilities. It is simply : 1. A screw that holds a spring and detent to secure the trigger pivot pin, 2. a positive stop for the trigger.
    As for the "3rd" screw in the tang.......that doesn't belong there. Someone "bubba gunsmithed" that.
    "As long as there's lead in the air....there's still hope.."

  9. #9
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    It does have some up and down slop. Im almost too scared to take it apart and mess with it now. Thank you sir for the info I'll keep an eye on it. If it get worse ill adjust it

  10. #10
    Team Savage GaCop's Avatar
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    Ya learn somethin every day!
    Vietnam Vet, Jun 66 - Dec 67

  11. #11
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    Ok, yes I see that now. One of the pictures in the link looked like it was a cam screw, but the picture above can tell it’s centered.

    Glad it worked out for you OP. Also, I wouldn’t be hesitant to mess with the settings. The parts are solid steel.

  12. #12
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    You definitely have a first generation trigger. It is not so easy to modify and no replacement is available. Polishing is helpful. I have two first generation rifles and sent the first, which had been rebarreled to .25-06, to a smith and he was able to help it a bit. It has a clean pull that feels lighter than it measures on a gauge (3.5 #). The other is a .243 on a short action that feels like a smith has done a job on it too. These are nice rifles with better wood than later Savage 110s had, but they are not able to be upgraded without spending more than the rifles are worth. I called Savage regarding the first and they referred me to a fellow who had retired from the company years ago who was the expert. He said the only way to replace the trigger with a 2nd generation trigger required milling the receiver to accept the new trigger. That discussion took place 20 years ago and I doubt he is still living.

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