What happened?

[Mr.Snerdly]

Got back from shooting the 22-250 with 52 grain and 69 grain bullets. 52 grain grouped pretty good, from 1/2-5/8 MOA. One group of the 69 grain was better, about 3/8 MOA but I didn't finish. The last shot when I ejected the primer was missing from the case. I thought that was odd, figured it got thrown out when I ejected but fortunately, before I shot again, I pulled the bolt and couldn't see through the bore. Got back home and there was brass or part of the primer lodged in the very back part. I took a cleaning rod and had to tap a few times to dislodge it. I don't want to shoot again until I get a little advice from some of you guys that know a lot more than I do.

I looked the bolt over and as much of the rest of the gun as pretty good but will do some more looking and wait until I get some advice before I shoot it again. I also am sure the powder charge was right and the bullet seating depth was correct. I double check everything since I want to be safe as possible.

[Bill2905]

Did the last shot feel unusual in any way like felt recoil or sound? Was the bullet on target or unusually low?

[celltech]

I am confused...you ejected the spent shell but could not see through the bore at all? Where was the debris stuck that you knocked out with the cleaning rod? Did you keep that shell...any part of it blown apart?

[Mr.Snerdly]

After I ejected the shell I picked up the case and noticed the primer was missing. I figured it probably got ejected with the spent cartridge but just to be safe I pulled the bolt and couldn't see through the bore. When I got back home I knocked whatever it was out. It would have been just at the start of the rifling. I wanted to examine it but I'll be damned if I can find it. I should have done it on a non carpeted part of the house. I will continue to look for it but it is small and I might not be able to find it. I also thought maybe it could be in the gun someplace, like the magazine but I don't see it.

I didn't bring the case in with me. I wish I would have. I will go out tomorrow if it doesn't rain and examine it.

[Shooter0302]

After I ejected the shell I picked up the case and noticed the primer was missing. I figured it probably got ejected with the spent cartridge but just to be safe I pulled the bolt and couldn't see through the bore. When I got back home I knocked whatever it was out. It would have been just at the start of the rifling. I wanted to examine it but I'll be damned if I can find it. I should have done it on a non carpeted part of the house. I will continue to look for it but it is small and I might not be able to find it. I also thought maybe it could be in the gun someplace, like the magazine but I don't see it.

I didn't bring the case in with me. I wish I would have. I will go out tomorrow if it doesn't rain and examine it.

Walk around the area where you think it is bare footed you will find it, I know that when I have broken glass on my tile, I can sweep, vacuum and mop several times. The first time I hit the area bare footed I'll find one or two little slivers.

[JW]

Did you chamber another round after ejecting the missing primer round?
If so that could have pushed the loose primer into the bore. Just thinking of possibilities
Jack

[Mr.Snerdly]

Did the last shot feel unusual in any way like felt recoil or sound? Was the bullet on target or unusually low?

No, it felt the same, sounded the same. There were only 2 other shots in the group and it wasn't a good group by any means but it wasn't wildly off, like I say it was only a 3 shot group and it might have been 1/2" different from the average group.

[Mr.Snerdly]

Curiosity got the best of me and I went out to the farm and picked up the case. I see absolutely nothing wrong with it. No bulges, no split neck, the length is well within spec. In fact, if this hadn't happened I see no reason why it couldn't be reloaded again. I am sure it wasn't the primer that was stuck in the bore but I have no idea what it was. Is it possible it could a defective bullet? This was the Sierra 69 grain Match King which I heard is considered to be a high quality product and it would seem unlikely but strange things happen.

[olddav]

Just to offer an uninformed wild guess, I would consider a contaminate in the charge of powder.

[darkker]

There's a lot of fishy things to this story. A guy who's super careful and double checks everything, doesn't find a bore obstruction and causally remove it without inspecting what it is. Nor let the unknown obstruction fall into the carpet without a care after beating it out of the bore.

I agree with Dave, it sounds like a contaminant in the primer or powder, and the bullet got stuck (squib).

[wbm]

There's a lot of fishy things to this story.

Ya think?

[Robinhood]

You really need to check your resized brass to see if you are "over sizing" it
.

[Mr.Snerdly]

I found something with the bolt just now. The ejector pin is missing. Do I send this in to Savage or can it be fixed locally? This gets stranger all the time.

[Fuj']

I thought that was odd, figured it got thrown out when I ejected but fortunately, before I shot again, I pulled the bolt and couldn't see through the bore. Got back home and there was brass or part of the primer lodged in the very back part. I took a cleaning rod and had to tap a few times to dislodge it.

Squib load was mentioned, and I'm leaning towards that. Pics would
go a long way in solving this. Still have that target ?? It's possible
that you sent a pill thru a stuck pill, and left some jacket material in
the bore. If that happened, I'd have the barrel scoped and checked
for loose spots......Really need to find that debris you pushed out !!

[GrenGuy]

There is nothing wrong with digital calipers, unless it is defective.

I suggest You take Your rifle to “the local guy”, “that is good” JMO

[yobuck]

First thing i would do is take the gun to a very well known (gunsmith), not just some wannabe, and have it repaired and thouraly checked out.
Next i would be reviewing my entire approach to loading, including an honest evaluation of my own ability, and what my goals are for shooting.
Despite what we read on the internet, the basic reloading dies sold by makers like RCBS and Lee are very good and capable of producing loads beyond the shooting ability of most of us with modern factory rifles. Who ever started the notion that accurate loads cant be created with full legnth resized cases should be exposed for what he is, an idiot. Read the manual that comes with the dies when you set them up and thats it.
Ive been loading since ive been 15, and im now 85. Ive never owned a comparator, and dont see the need to have one. Finding the OAL of the cartridge is as easy as closing the bolt on a partially seated bullet and adjust the die till you get the desired length.
What else is necessary for us to have than that?
I agree that a good set of calipers is nice to have, but fact is they dont have to be professional quality.
If we keep a dummy round of the load, and an empty case of the proper length, then it need only be used as a gauge to compare length.

Now if we want to become another cat chasing his tail with regard to even smaller than necessary groups, then we just dont skip over the basics and start at a higher level because of the way we go about loading ammo, like neck sizing only for example.
The old cliche of trying to create a silk purse from a sows ear still applies, and it no doubt always will.

[Texas10]

My first thought was the obstruction in the barrel was a clump of partially burnt powder. I think it quite unlikely that parts of the ejector somehow managed to move forward past the case being ejected. Perhaps if you closed the bolt after ejecting the cartridge, but you don't mention that. Then there's the description of knocking it out of the barrel, indicating it was stuck there.

I'd start by removing the barreled action from the stock and inspect everything very carefully. I would also highly recommend that you purchase a borescope camera, or Teslong camera so you can inspect the inside of the barrel for any defects.

The blown primer may be an indication of a too long case, not trimmed properly to length and the neck was forced into the chamber throat thereby pinching the bullet. Saw a guy do this at the range with the same results you describe. First thing he did was toss the cartridge case which greatly reduced the ability to diagnose.

Running your cases through the action with the borescope camera in the throat allows you to see just how much room your trim methods leave for safety. A few thou extra for the wife and kids is never a bad thing.

Any possibility that the trigger work you did left something out or amiss? Don't mean to accuse, just trying to think of all the possibilities.

[Mr.Snerdly]

My first thought was the obstruction in the barrel was a clump of partially burnt powder. I think it quite unlikely that parts of the ejector somehow managed to move forward past the case being ejected. Perhaps if you closed the bolt after ejecting the cartridge, but you don't mention that. Then there's the description of knocking it out of the barrel, indicating it was stuck there.

I'd start by removing the barreled action from the stock and inspect everything very carefully. I would also highly recommend that you purchase a borescope camera, or Teslong camera so you can inspect the inside of the barrel for any defect.

The blown primer may be an indication of a too long case, not trimmed properly to length and the neck was forced into the chamber throat thereby pinching the bullet. Saw a guy do this at the range with the same results you describe. First thing he did was toss the cartridge case which greatly reduced the ability to diagnose.

Running your cases through the action with the borescope camera in the throat allows you to see just how much room your trim methods leave for safety. A few thou extra for the wife and kids is never a bad thing.

Any possibility that the trigger work you did left something out or amiss? Don't mean to accuse, just trying to think of all the possibilities.

You have given some good ideas. I know the case wasn't too long. I checked it before reloading and also after the mishap. It was under the maximum length both times. I am sure it was not parts of the ejector pin. I didn't close the bolt after the incident. I am wondering if maybe the piece could be in the rifle yet. I looked as carefully as I could on the floor and I wonder maybe if it could have dropped into the magazine and be in the bottom part of the magazine.

On the digital calipers, I wonder if there might be something wrong with mine. A lot of times when I put it back to zero it will show-.0005" even though I always zero it each time before measuring. A few times it will say-.0010". Not usually but sometimes. I wonder if it might be be off .0005" sometimes and that is why I come up with inconsistent readings. I just have never trusted digital things too much. The digital powder scale included in the reloading kit is horribly inaccurate. I realize you can't expect much for the price you buy the whole kit for but I think they should just not even include it if it is so inaccurate. I use the beam scale to measure powder.

[Robinhood]

.0005"-.001" is nothing to get worked up about.

[yobuck]

You have given some good ideas. I know the case wasn't too long. I checked it before reloading and also after the mishap. It was under the maximum length both times. I am sure it was not parts of the ejector pin. I didn't close the bolt after the incident. I am wondering if maybe the piece could be in the rifle yet. I looked as carefully as I could on the floor and I wonder maybe if it could have dropped into the magazine and be in the bottom part of the magazine.

On the digital calipers, I wonder if there might be something wrong with mine. A lot of times when I put it back to zero it will show-.0005" even though I always zero it each time before measuring. A few times it will say-.0010". Not usually but sometimes. I wonder if it might be be off .0005" sometimes and that is why I come up with inconsistent readings. I just have never trusted digital things too much. The digital powder scale included in the reloading kit is horribly inaccurate. I realize you can't expect much for the price you buy the whole kit for but I think they should just not even include it if it is so inaccurate. I use the beam scale to measure powder.

I have a set of Mitoyo or similar sounding name manual calipers. Probably had them over 20 years, and they werent all that expensive.
They can be fine tune set on zero before using them, and also locked at any measurement for things like checking case length.
But if you keep an old case, even one with a split neck trimmed to the proper length, thats all you really need. And that case also makes it easy to adjust the case trimmer length also. You could probably find a suitable set of calipers for all your loading needs at Harbor Freight.
As for precise powder charges, we could have a long heated debate over that also.
But just to satisfy your own curiosity on that issue, load 3 rounds with a charge weight like say 25 grains for this discussion example.
Then load 3 more with 1/4 of a grain increase. Then 3 more with a 1/2 grain increase.
Shoot the first 3 into a target, disregarding where the group is with regard to where your aiming point was.
Then use the exact same aiming point, and shoot the second 3 shots and the third 3 shots and see where all 9 shots landed.
Then have a big discussion with yourself over the importance of precise weighing of charges to the 1/10th of a grain.

[Robinhood]

First thing i would do is take the gun to a very well known (gunsmith), not just some wannabe, and have it repaired and thouraly checked out.
Next i would be reviewing my entire approach to loading, including an honest evaluation of my own ability, and what my goals are for shooting.
Despite what we read on the internet, the basic reloading dies sold by makers like RCBS and Lee are very good and capable of producing loads beyond the shooting ability of most of us with modern factory rifles. Who ever started the notion that accurate loads cant be created with full legnth resized cases should be exposed for what he is, an idiot. Read the manual that comes with the dies when you set them up and thats it.
Ive been loading since ive been 15, and im now 85. Ive never owned a comparator, and dont see the need to have one. Finding the OAL of the cartridge is as easy as closing the bolt on a partially seated bullet and adjust the die till you get the desired length.
What else is necessary for us to have than that?
I agree that a good set of calipers is nice to have, but fact is they dont have to be professional quality.
If we keep a dummy round of the load, and an empty case of the proper length, then it need only be used as a gauge to compare length.

Now if we want to become another cat chasing his tail with regard to even smaller than necessary groups, then we just dont skip over the basics and start at a higher level because of the way we go about loading ammo, like neck sizing only for example.
The old cliche of trying to create a silk purse from a sows ear still applies, and it no doubt always will.

Yobuck is a wise man and has been doing this for more years than most. The reality is that there would be indicators involved in this situation that someone with experience would have easily identified. We are left without those items as they are not available to us. For any new hobby there is a learning curve and often help is needed to get over that curve. I would take a look at the bold print above and consider that there may be more to it than just threading some dies down on the press, sizing, fill and pill. Get some in person assistance from a knowledgeable person.

[yobuck]

In fairness there is a much better opportunity to shorten the learning curve today, than when i began loading or learning anything else for that matter.
And that could in fact also include various tools available today that didnt exist at that time also.
But loading ammo in and of itself isnt going to shorten any curve, regardless as to how we go about doing it.

[wbm]

Get some in personal assistance from a knowledgeable person.

+1

[Mr.Snerdly]

Who ever started the notion that accurate loads cant be created with full legnth resized cases should be exposed for what he is, an idiot. Read the manual that comes with the dies when you set them up and thats it.

Don't the cases last longer if you full length resize no more than necessary? That is probably one reason I was doing it initially, plus I didn't have the press set up yet.

[charlie b]

They last just as long when full length sizing. Neck sizing really does not do much special. You'd have to be a much better shot than I am to be able to tell a difference. FWIW, failure usually occurs in the neck anyway. So the brass is worked just as much either way.

I only neck size, but, it's just cause I am lazy. I use the Lee collet dies so no lube needed. And I never get a case stuck in the die cause I forgot to lube it :) I only fire the cartridges in one rifle so neck only works fine.