Reply With QuoteNo, any of the trusted brands will do their job.
For a non-professional swapping Savage barrels, does one brand of headspace gauges matter over another, i.e. Forster or Clymer?
No, any of the trusted brands will do their job.
I have found that they vary from different manufacturers, but they are still within the tolerance range of gauges.
"As long as there's lead in the air....there's still hope.."
I like clymer but no, they are all so close. You do want to stick with same brand/set for go and no go. Buy a set of go/no goes that were produced together and not for example clymer go and forester no go.Originally Posted by oley55
Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
I actually only use a “Go” gauge. Then I cut a shim from .003” or .004” feeler gauge, and shape it the same diameter as the base of the Go gauge.
I've heard of folks doing that, i recon it would save you the cost of the no go.. I've never measured with a mic the difference between go/no go.. I'll have to try that and cut a feeler to match.. seems sound enough:)
Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
Good idea! Feeler gauges come in handy for many things.
The more corrupt the state, the more laws.-Tacitus
It never stops amazing me that when someone who is trying to learn how to work on their own gun that people who he believes really know would offer such crude advise.
Just measured my go/no goes 6.5 creedmoor at a difference .0035, my 308 .003, 22/250 .004.
Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
So you’re saying you don’t approve of a piece of scotch tape on the base of the go - gauge for no-go either?
I use cheap feeler gauges as shim stock all the time. The bolt could care less where that extra .003" came from. And if you want to get the spacing tighter than spec you can easily do so.
I buy both everytime - cheap insurance for me. But I know a very reputable custom gun maker that uses shim stock for setting headspace on shouldered barrels for competition guns, when he wants a specific non- saami headspace.
No go gauges are meant for production situations. It's an easy way to tell whether something is within production tolerances. Most professional gunsmiths don't bother with no go gauges on custom built rifles either, there are better ways to measure than feel. The most sensible way is to use a go gauge and a strip of plasti-gage. It will tell you exactly how much clearance you have past the go gauge.
"As long as there's lead in the air....there's still hope.."
I guess it depends on how much a guy cares about how his gun turns out.
I run .0015 headspace on my bolt 223. and I carefully check and reset until that is what I have. When I resize I hold my brass to .001 headspace.
Actually the use of some shim stock makes good dollars for cents sense for the no-go, but I'm picturing a "monkey and a football" trying to keep that little circle of shim stock in place between the go gauge and the bolt face. Although a tiny dab of Vaseline would likely hold it in the bolt face without altering the length we are trying to measure. Or better yet clamping the barrel vise in a more vertical orientation.
There is the key, Professional gunsmith does carefully set the headspace using plasti-gage. The average guy trying to learn how to install more than likely can not read plasti-gage. Go,No gage gives the average guy a method of doing the job.
Funny. Not exactly sure what is “crude”. Never actually gave any advice. Simply was saying what I do. Used to use the ol’ scotch tape trick everyone knows...and ya know what? Ain’t never had a single problem with that method. But awhile back I was using feeler gages for different machining tricks and thought, “hmmm”. Went and checked, and last one I set up WON’T close with a .003” shim on the base of the “Go”. So it’s under .003” headspace. I could use a .002” shim and set it lower, but where it is quite alright.
I don’t have much in the way of “throw away money” see. I need to keep spending pretty light. Saving the cost of $30 on a “No Go” gauge may seem like nothing to some, but to me that $30 can be much better served in the form of a couple end mills or other machining tidbits.
So I fail to see what us “Crude” in that?
How do you measure that close? I mean how do you set your headspace that close without using shims ? Do you have an in between gauge? Could a guy turn a new one on the lathe and then just "snug" it up?
I've done a hundred or so savage barrels and I still only use a go gauge & scotch tape & feel. Recently I headspace my 5 different 6.5 Creeds as close as I could get them by "feel" so I could use the same reloading die setting. Couldn't do it, one was .0005 off.
I agree with you. I am just starting to learn gunsmithing and need to save money when I can.
The more corrupt the state, the more laws.-Tacitus
+1 same here.
Vietnam Vet, Jun 66 - Dec 67
I just changed the recoil lug on my 260 Rem. 110 using only a go gauge.
When putting brass fired in that rifle in my Model 7 Remington in 260 Rem, the bolt closes easily so I think it's OK. That's not the way I like to do things though so I now have a no go gauge for when my new Shilen arrives.
I wouldn't be afraid to use the shim method either, just didn't think of it.
Not sure how he does it. There is a Forster set that comes in .001 increments. The difference between go and no is .006 in his .223 I believe. I personally try for the middle but I have a few that are on the loose end of the spectrum for use in places with things that bite back. Honestly I think the loose ones are more accurate.
I wish I could set brass up to resize to within a half a thou of headspace consistently and measure it accurately. A little too much lube, a speck of crud, etc., and I’m out.
Thanks gb,
I was aware of those, but testing the poster's claim. Holding his tolerances on brass is easy with good control of annealing, lube & sizing technique. But the average guy doing only one common caliber is not probably going to achieve those results because of differences in brass and technique.
More power to him if he does and hoping he could share this with others.
Wasn't trying to offend anyone.
Howdy & welcome to ya Robert. Here is a piece of advice I will give. “ make it your point to learn at your pace. If you are able to teach yourself, kudos”
I started light Gunsmithing work over 20 years ago. Building firearms for me came at the end of the Clinton AWB. This, after the ban expired in ‘04, was the “beginning” of the DIY firearms builders movement. Even though some like talking about building them before, heck even in the 80’s! Which is sheer nonsense.
For ever & ever, Gunsmithing has been mainly an “Old Boys Club”. Very similar in the world of Knifemaking, rather, knifesmithing. After centuries of being told how “other worldly” the knives & Guns made by these smiths are, well they just can’t help but believe the rhetoric themselves. Most of ‘em don’t like me because I openly release every secret I come across. I also run into hate which takes the form of “How dare this one armed cripple think he can do what WE do”!
My advice is learn on your own. NEVER pay someone to learn. It will be easy to find who to & NOT to listen to. Look for Anger. When a person “calls out” another, and you can “hear” the anger in there confrontation. Not someone I would want to from. Just pay attention. Quickly you'll see the trends.
Thanks, Dave! I hear you. I am not learning alone. I have been purchasing armorers courses from AGI to get a jumpstart on Gunsmithing. I wanted to start the professional gunsmithing course from AGI, but I cannot pay for it in total and they stopped the payment plans.
And I am also learning from experts on the forums!
The more corrupt the state, the more laws.-Tacitus
Posting Permissions
Bookmarks