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Thread: ?? changing 12FV calibers ?? , 308 12fv accuracy?

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    ?? changing 12FV calibers ?? , 308 12fv accuracy?


    I've heard that calibers can be changed by barrel swap and bolt, w/ savages. But, if were talking 12FV w/ internal blind magazine, seems that would be a problem, am I right? Or, is there something simpple that can be changed in the blind magazine? Then, I heard that the bolt from a 308, can also be used for 6.5 creedmore. Then read, only the head of bolt needs changed. I'm not sure what to believe, or what should be changed, w/ what calibers?
    One of the things I'd like to learn out of this thread, is what short action calibers are the most universal for caliber swap, and what bolts (if any), can be used w/ which other calibers. If anyone cant think of any threads that already covered these questions nicely, a name or link, would be appreciated.

    Also, I've heard alot on here how accurate the 12FV in the smaller dia. calibers are, but not much about how accurate the 308 in 12FV is? One member stated, he gets about .35 - .45" moa, w/ his 308, but didnt say what model it was. I'm specifially asking about the 12FV, thanks

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    With your .308 having a bolt face .Dia of .470" you can change to these calibers and many in between with nothing more than a new barrel:

    225 Winchester
    22/250 Remington
    6mm Creedmoor
    6mm Norma BR
    243 Winchester
    250 Savage
    260 Remington
    6.5 Creedmoor
    6.5/284 Norma
    7/08 Remington
    284 Winchester
    300 Savage
    308 Winchester
    338 Federal
    35 Remington
    358 Winchester

    The 12FV internal magazine is nothing more than the guts of a standard external magazine with the baseplate removed. So if you wanted to change to say, .223, just buy a mag and swap it out.

    There is really no universal caliber...have to match your needs and expectations. But 6.5 Creed seems to be the darling these days.

    My 12FV in .308 shoots 1/2" groups with 168gr Federal GMM...they can be amazingly accurate.

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    I have 5 rifles built on 12FV actions, from 223 to 308. The action is quite capable, not on par with a full custom, but not far off with a little tune up. The great thing about Savage small shank actions is the variety of barrels and barrel makers that are available in a Savage Pre fit.

    Put a Criterion, Shilen, X-caliber or any hand lapped barrel on your 12FV action and you'll find what you're capable of.

    Let us know what you decide!
    Banning a gun will not solve what is a mental health crisis inflamed by incendiary rhetoric on social and television media. The first amendment in this case is less precious and more likely the causal factor than the second amendment.

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    Thank you celltech, thats quite a list. But wouldnt a extractor need changing, as some of those, the bullet casing different? Yes, already bought a 12FV 6.5 creedmore and .223 the other day, thanks to all the help, on here. But, been thinking of getting a .308, reason being, we already have one, that costed much more than the 12FV. So, thinking that we can take a new one apart and learn a little by altering/playing w/ it. Thinking of threading the barrel for a brake. If we screw it up, we still have a second or third try, and just turn it into a 24 or 22".
    Lets say, we had a factory stock .223 12FV, would that bolt face be smaller, and would be limited to the smaller dia. calibers that you listed?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Texas10 View Post

    Put a Criterion, Shilen, X-caliber or any hand lapped barrel on your 12FV action and you'll find what you're capable of.

    lol, I catch what your sayin. and ya wouldnt be able to blame the gun, when ya miss either

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    Quote Originally Posted by Texas10 View Post
    I have 5 rifles built on 12FV actions, from 223 to 308.

    Let us know what you decide!
    we got a 6.5 and a 223. shoulda got the 308 also on same dros. When, we ran a dollar bill down the barrel checking for free float on the 6.5, it would snag about half way down. In other words, about half way down the forearm/handguard area, the dollar bill, would snag at one point , and kinda had to work w/ it to get past that point, then bill, would move freely rest way down. It bothered me, but, it was the last one they had in a box, besides display. Not sure whats inside of forearm plastic part, or whether the barrel got raised from a knick, or something. I think I might be shy of taking the stock off on the 6.5 , as soon as we pick it up, after reading about how critical all the torques are. Not sure what else to do/think about that though?

    What other calibers you got b/t the 223 and 308, Texas?

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    Quote Originally Posted by ice tea View Post
    Lets say, we had a factory stock .223 12FV, would that bolt face be smaller, and would be limited to the smaller dia. calibers that you listed?
    I suggest you google bolt face diameters and do a little research. The .223 uses a .384" and is *not* compatible with any of the above listed rounds. But with a Savage you can easily swap bolt heads and barrels with the same action and create almost whatever you want.

    How do you plan on threading the barrel for a brake? And yeah...you have lots of room to practice. I cut down my .308 to 18" with a hacksaw and crowned it with a shell deburring tool...still shoots 1/2" groups and lost a lot of weight in the process.

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    . I think I might be shy of taking the stock off on the 6.5 , as soon as we pick it up, after reading about how critical all the torques are. Not sure what else to do/think about that though
    The torque values listed on this forum are just a guide, I tried the setting listed on my 110 Tactical and the trigger was locked / jammed . The only way to get it correct is to get a in/lb torque wrench/driver, take about 100 rounds (all loaded the same or from the same lot # ) if you buy your ammo and shoot groups changing the two action screw values,ie; more front,more back, less front more back. OR if you only shoot no further that 300 yds. go with about 35 in/lb.

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    Quote Originally Posted by celltech View Post
    I suggest you google bolt face diameters and do a little research. The .223 uses a .384" and is *not* compatible with any of the above listed rounds. But with a Savage you can easily swap bolt heads and barrels with the same action and create almost whatever you want.

    How do you plan on threading the barrel for a brake? And yeah...you have lots of room to practice. I cut down my .308 to 18" with a hacksaw and crowned it with a shell deburring tool...still shoots 1/2" groups and lost a lot of weight in the process.
    Thanks, yea, I shoulda googled it, theres charts by a couple people that popped up right away, showing which calibers use the same bolt. I was pressed for time, that night, and the sale ended the next night, so I just asked the question, before trying myself. I had no idea, so many different calibers ass end of the casing was the same dia., once I saw those charts.

    I have a hard time w/ understanding those shorter barrels, like the 18", you hacksawed. Ive seen on savage website target rifles w/ 29" barrels. Then precision rifles w/ like 18 - 20" . I think to myself, well, what the diff b/t precision and target. I mean, I understand a target rifle having a long barrel and it giving higher velocity to a certain point . I get a varmint rifle having a slightly shorter barrel. And I understand a hunting rifle being slightly thinner and shorter also, and understand that acuracy not neccesarily needed is sacrificed for hunting also. But I dont get, how precision rifle is shortest yet.

    I like your barrel shortening story, crude the process, but you got good end results. i've seen guys get ok results on battlefield type rifles, using an annular cutter w/ a pilot in muzzles end, to get the major dia for there die.
    I did machining in a machine shop in most of the 90s till the mid aughts. I did mostly obsolete/retired tractor parts, and what little welding the shop did. I still have my machinist chess, w/ my mics, thread wires, indicators, etc., but I'm sure I'm rusty, as its been over a decade. So, I'll eventually work a deal w/ someone/shop, to come in and use there lathe to thread a barrel and whatever else is on my list. I've done that a couple times since I left the shop. One, threading project I did since, was my hydra-booster on my old chevy dually, it was ready to fly off the firewall of my truck, which then I'd lose my brakes. The nut was jumping the worn threads. I chucked up the whole hydra-boost in a 4 jaw chuck, and cut it for undersize threads. I have a pick of it finished, still in the chuck. thanks for the help

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    Quote Originally Posted by Shooter0302 View Post
    . I think I might be shy of taking the stock off on the 6.5 , as soon as we pick it up, after reading about how critical all the torques are. Not sure what else to do/think about that though
    The torque values listed on this forum are just a guide, I tried the setting listed on my 110 Tactical and the trigger was locked / jammed . The only way to get it correct is to get a in/lb torque wrench/driver, take about 100 rounds (all loaded the same or from the same lot # ) if you buy your ammo and shoot groups changing the two action screw values,ie; more front,more back, less front more back. OR if you only shoot no further that 300 yds. go with about 35 in/lb.
    I kinda figured it was something like that. One of the problems is, I dont want to fork out more $ than what fixed power SWFA ss scopes cost, as that what is planned for these rifles. And the 10-16 power in moa, are outa stock. So these rifles might have to sit, till I can get scopes for them, unless i take a scope off another gun. Thanks for the explanation

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    Quote Originally Posted by ice tea View Post
    I kinda figured it was something like that. One of the problems is, I dont want to fork out more $ than what fixed power SWFA ss scopes cost, as that what is planned for these rifles. And the 10-16 power in moa, are outa stock. So these rifles might have to sit, till I can get scopes for them, unless i take a scope off another gun. Thanks for the explanation
    Ya, I'm a fan as well -


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    Not necessarily the 12fv but any savage that uses that action bolt barrel combo can be very accurate in all calibers. Get the barrel away from the stock and bed the lug.
    SWFAs are everywhere. A guy on NChuntandfish forums has a few in the classifieds right now and always a few on eBay. Cheers mate


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    jkv45, thats a pretty picure. I'd like to get mine lookin like that eventually. It look like one has a two piece rail. I'm gonna order a rail. From what I gather, a one piece 0 elev EGW 41000, looks like a descent way to go for 12FV for starts . Those stocks look a lil different in the grip. I wouldnt know what to guess the one closest is. But I'd guess the one in the back is HS Precision. Also looks like different rings also, I wouldnt mind hearing what you favor them, and/or what they are. They look low, I usually like low. ????

    hamiltonkiler, thanks for the pic/post, and the lead on swfa scopes. i did see the ebay (lots of used), but I'll look into this "NChuntandfish". I got a BSA 223 sweet scope that I keep in the truck, for work, when I need to see something far away. I might slap that on the 12FV .223, to get started on breking it in and at least getting to shoot the thing. Ill have to study up on bedding lug, etc. That'll be down the road a ways I think. Thanks Everyone

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    Quote Originally Posted by ice tea View Post
    jkv45, thats a pretty picure. I'd like to get mine lookin like that eventually. It look like one has a two piece rail. I'm gonna order a rail. From what I gather, a one piece 0 elev EGW 41000, looks like a descent way to go for 12FV for starts . Those stocks look a lil different in the grip. I wouldnt know what to guess the one closest is. But I'd guess the one in the back is HS Precision. Also looks like different rings also, I wouldnt mind hearing what you favor them, and/or what they are. They look low, I usually like low. ????

    hamiltonkiler, thanks for the pic/post, and the lead on swfa scopes. i did see the ebay (lots of used), but I'll look into this "NChuntandfish". I got a BSA 223 sweet scope that I keep in the truck, for work, when I need to see something far away. I might slap that on the 12FV .223, to get started on breking it in and at least getting to shoot the thing. Ill have to study up on bedding lug, etc. That'll be down the road a ways I think. Thanks Everyone




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    Quote Originally Posted by ice tea View Post
    jkv45, thats a pretty picure. I'd like to get mine lookin like that eventually. It look like one has a two piece rail. I'm gonna order a rail. From what I gather, a one piece 0 elev EGW 41000, looks like a descent way to go for 12FV for starts . Those stocks look a lil different in the grip. I wouldnt know what to guess the one closest is. But I'd guess the one in the back is HS Precision. Also looks like different rings also, I wouldnt mind hearing what you favor them, and/or what they are. They look low, I usually like low. ????
    (SNIP)
    Thanks ice.

    Both have 1-piece rails.

    The rifle in the front is a Savage Mark II Target .22 in a Boyds Pro Varmint stock with a 10x SWFA scope and Vortex Pro Series rings.

    The rifle in the back is the Model 10 FCP HS Precision .308 with a SWFA 12x and SWFA rings. Both rings are low, IIRC.

    I wanted the rifles to be as similar as possible.

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    Thanks for the pic of the bedding hamiltonkiler, and the info on those rifles jkv45. Later this week the ones i purchased should be released to me for pickup

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