Reply With QuoteGet a Timney and be done with it.
Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
I just received my new 110 High Country and couldn't get the pull weight south of 2lbs so I decided to try and lightly polish the trigger and sear surfaces as I have done on many trigger assemblies. After lightly hitting the two faces with a buffing pad and Flitz the rifle trips with the closing of the bolt until the pull weight is increased to near 4 lbs! The contact surfaces do not appear to have any material removed/deformed and I'm not exactly sure what to do. Any input is appreciated.
Get a Timney and be done with it.
Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
Jester
The Accutrigger can and will trip when you have the pull weight turned all the way down. It can also create "lite" strikes/misfires. Unless you have the red bladed accutrigger, the standard pull weight at its lowest is 2.5 lbs. If you have to turn it back up to 4 lbs to prevent the trigger from tripping when you close the bolt I don't know what to suggest. Perhaps "Sharpshooter" will have a fix for you if he sees this thread...
You may have luck if you crank it as high as it will go, and then back it off again? I usually leave mine one full turn (with the little key they provide) from the bottom stop. Usually about 2.5-3.0 lbs.
Sorry I don't have a better response for you.
Even if you fix the issue, I'm not sure you can ever trust that trigger group now that you've polished the surfaces. You say that no noticable material is removed, but if the trigger was functioning properly before you worked on it and is now malfunctioning, I'm inclined to believe an unnoticeable amount of material was removed. Particularly around the sear.
I've had this same issue before and the only way I felt the rifle was safe to use was to replace the entire trigger group. Which I was fine with since a Timney trigger is almost always a good upgrade.
I don’t think you want to use a buffing pad and flitz? I would think a fine hone, that will hold an edge is what you would want. Seems you might have rounded the edge(s). Just a guess.
I'd never touch a sear or mating surface with anything other than a hard stone or steel backed diamond. Even then I like to make a jig to hold everything at the proper angles. I am just not that good to hold a precise angle when polishing something freehand.
Well unfortunately you have all confirmed my suspicions. I will try and file a sharp edge back on the trigger to confirm that is the issue and then likely order the Timney.
The easiest way to lower the pull weight below 2.5 lbs on a standard Accutrigger is to swap out the spring to a varmint/target Accutrigger spring which will adjust down to around 1.5 lbs. Site vendor GunShack has the springs listed as target springs for sell. Hopefully it’s not the sear which are very hard to find. I recently purchased a complete Accutigger from Numrich gun parts. The sears where out of stock. I did see Accutrigger’s for sell with top or bottom bolt release sears on EBay.
I did that for my 116 WW. I could make it slam fire. I called Timney and the guy said their site says not for use with bottom bolt release. We had a conversation while we were both on the Timney site. He was surprised to see that the site clearly doesn't mention what he said. So... He gave me a modification idea and said to write down his name as authorizing the modification so if it didn't work I could still return the trigger. It didn't work...Originally Posted by Jester560
You will need to make a jig to cut/file new surfaces square.
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
It’s a shame when this happens. For years knowledgeable people on this site have warned not to use the term “polish” when doing trigger work. But the word and practice continues to be used. A polishing wheel and Flitz was definitely the wrong way to go. charlie b is right on. Stoning is the only way to work trigger surfaces. Rounded edges are a no no.
Please let us know if You are able to salvage the trigger.
A trick that I used successfully was to take out the trigger spring, put the trigger blade spring where the trigger spring was and then create a new trigger blade spring from a ball point pen spring.
It dropped my Accu-trigger down to around 14oz and does not seem to trip unintentionally.
It is on an Axis rifle and I shimmed the trigger at the pins to remove some wobble.
I didn't discover that spring method, I read about it online somewhere but it's cheaper than a Target Accu-trigger spring, reversible and easy to try.
I don't know if that helps with your malfunctioning trigger but maybe next time?
p.s. never rely on a trigger that you haven't tested rigorously.
I have often warned of using polish & buffer by hand, when dealing with any surface relationship of trigger, sear, hammer, disconnecter used in trigger systems. These surfaces need to be perfectly flat, and our human imperfection simply does not allow that! I use a custom made (by me)holding fixture & ceramic waster stones to cut these surfaces. Remember in any trigger system you are dealing with 2 separate planes(surfaces), parallel to one another, in bias rotational travel. Study that and make it a picture in your mind, and trigger work becomes secondary.
Some here, like Robin... know I’m a broken record with this. But I hope it can help some. For any easier option, just go with a RifleBasix, and set it up exactly as specified. I choose to use Accutriggers because I enjoy the “likeness” to a 2-stage. (Even more like that after I work one over.) But unless you really have a firm grasp on doing it, better to just get one sold.
I don’t much concern myself with getting to a certain weight in lbs. No, I’m more focused on how the trigger creeps(rather the lack there of!), breaks(like a big fat ice cycle smashed against your fence rail!), & stops.(NO over travel! Want it to hit a brick wall!) I typically set mine around 2lbs doing stone work, shims & custom spring setup...but they feel much lighter. It it sounds like you are more focused on what that little tool is telling you in POUNDS. In which case I recommend getting the SAV-2. Or it’s looking like the Jard is the new ONE TRICK PONY! And it comes with a new MACHINED sear, which I do like! I’d get one myself but can’t justify the price tag for the shooting I do. Your mileage may vary!
Thanks for everyone's input. As a brief update, I was able to file and stone the sear and trigger surfaces back completely square and smooth and the trigger pull is fairly crisp and consistent with little to no creep. Only issue is the trigger cannot be set below 3.5# safely so I'm definitely going to be grabbing either a Timney or Jard to get around a crisp 1.5-2# pull.
If You get the new Jard, I hope it works out better for You than it has for Me so far. I have some Stevens 200 triggers that I have worked on that break at a clean crisp 2.5 #’s. They are actually a pleasure to shoot. So far, the new Jard has a lot of “mush” before it breaks. I’m very much looking forward to Jim Baker’s review of this new trigger when He gets a chance.
My stock trigger is 2# safe.
Make a spring. I also have a little heavy set screw in place to hold the spring to the assembly. It took a little drimal to the stock near the trigger guard but it breaks clean with really high end triggers.
The stock savage varmint triggers are good in my opinion. No they are not 6oz bench triggers.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Well that makes me a bit hesitant. Only reason I was leaning towards the Jard was because of using one in an AR platform that felt great with zero creep.
Just an FYI, the standard Accutrigger is not supposed to adjust below 2.5#. The Varmint trigger is 1.5# and target trigger is 0.6oz.
I know that I can adj my std Accutrigger down a little less than 2.5# but not 2#. And my varmint trigger is right around 1.5#
Posting Permissions
Bookmarks