Prarie Hunter Stock for Axis 7mm-08

[Herby]

Gentlemen, the Axis 7mm-08 is at a turning point, having shot a couple hundred rounds now the average group at 100 yards is right around 1.10", group after group. The only modification has been a lighter trigger spring. Actually pretty good for a cheap hunting rifle but would like to do better. I have no problem with the plastic stock, but from what I understand the next step to improved accuracy is in the stock bedding. But... having my doubts about investing time messing around with the plastic stock.

I think the Prairie Hunter is a great looking stock and from what I have read with some modifications could improve accuracy to around 1" at 100 yards.

Now the question is do I take the plunge and put more money into this rifle, or trade it off an upgrade to a Weather Warrior? Like, you know what happens when you buy a cheap Harbor Freight tool... then down the road upgrade to a Powermatic or Milwaukee or Snap-On? Turns out the best choice would have been just invest in the quality right off the bat. Any thoughts?

[SageRat Shooter]

I can speak from experience... Doing anymore modification to the Axis is a major PITA (mostly because of the recoil lug setup and trigger assembly). I bought the PH and put in on my Axis 22-250. I had to pillar bed and glass bed the action to get the results I wanted (5 shots in a Nickel @ 100 yards). To glass bed the Axis action you have to remove the entire trigger assembly, bed it, and then put the trigger group back together after everything has dried and setup.

Will it shoot afterwards.... Absolutely!! It's just a matter of how much work and $ you want to put into it. I dropped a little over $1000.00 (including the initial purchase) to get my Axis to shoot the way I wanted (my Prairie dog gun) and will never come anywhere close to getting my $ back if I ever choose to sell it.

Do yourself a favor and start from a better platform for a build. Just my opinion though.

[GrenGuy]

Have no illusions, You won’t get Your money back out of a used Weather Warrior either. Typically, we can get used rifles at half price. I never buy a rifle with the internet of selling it. If I no longer have a use for it, I offer it to someone in the family. If I were to sell a used rifle, I know it would be only for what I can get out of it. All rifles in this price point usually need a little tweaking or massaging to shoot there best. Your Axis is capable of shooting 1” at 100 yards. There’s nothing magic about that kind of accuracy. To get out of the box target accuracy, we have to pay a lot more money, or be lucky. I have shooting friends who always buy the absolute most expensive and have pro’s do all their work. What’s the fun in that? I have Savages so I can do My own work.

It’s Your choice. Either way, have fun

[Minooka]

If you dont know they dont make the weather warrior anymore, it's now the the 110 storm

[charlie b]

I would trade it. IMHO, if the barrel shoots just over MOA it might shoot just under MOA at best. If you trade it you might get a rifle that shoots 1/2 MOA. 12FV or similar that are discounted on a regular basis would be my choice.

FWIW, I never buy a weapon with the resale value in mind. I do consider resale when I consider modifying one, ie, will modifying do what I want or should I get rid of it. Much of the time modifying a gun will not increase the value.

[wbm]

I think the Prairie Hunter is a great looking stock and from what I have read with some modifications could improve accuracy to around 1" at 100 yards.

Well I guess it depends on you. If spending $150 on a Prairie Hunter is worth that modest improvement in accuracy.
Sort of a "crap shoot" though....don't ya think? FWIW I have had two of the Prairie Hunters an like them a lot!

I never buy a weapon with the resale value in mind.

Lol. Me neither. Looking back should we have? Nah!

[jpdown]

You did not indicate factory or reloaded ammo. I’d consider 1.10” MOA very good for factory ammo. Writers in Gun reviews seldom average any less with factory ammo. If it’s a hunting rifle, its good to go. The only difference between an Axis and Savage 10/110 factory sporter barrel is the exterior stamp. A stress-free bedded wood stock or Accufit-Accustock and Accutrigger with varmint/target spring would give you more accuracy potential than the plastic Axis stock and trigger. Roll your own loads tuned to the rifle shrank groups the most for me.

If I was going to chase small groups and did not plan to pack it around hunting, then the Savage 12FV has demonstrated the best out of the box accuracy potential of the Savage budget offerings.

[gumbo333]

There is another tweak you can do to the Savage Axis stock for about $8 that will help the flimsy stock. Remove the action, get a small bag Rockite compound, mix a bit up and put in the webbing on the front part of the stock, it doesn't take a lot( a cup or 2). Let it harden. When hard remove the recoil pad , stand the stock up on its nose, and mix a cup or two more up and pour it down the stock into the wrist area. Let that harden. It does produce some heat as it cures. That will increase the stiffness of the stock with just a bit of weight. That might shrink groups a bit also. When I did the wrist I stood the stock up in a tall box that had a bunch of foam packing peanuts in it. My hands are too small and fingers to short for a comfortable Boyds stock grip. The cheapo Axis stocks are usable now, don't mind them at all. For $4 more you an paint them too. I have no money in my trigger fix as I found some small springs and the small screws that I cut to correct length for over travel. Gives you a little feeling of accomplishment for under $15. My Axis 270 and 223 will both shoot 5 shot fast groups under an inch. Great hunting rifles.

[prdatr]

What is your goal, intended purpose for the rifle? How does it group at 200,300, 400?

[Camar068]

Looked at Boyds this weekend. Pricing was $147. Today it's $163. FYI.

[hamiltonkiler]

Even an aftermarket stock you should bed unless it’s sitting on aluminum rails or block.
Just bed the front lug in the stock. JB weld, paper tape and some wax/ shoe polish.
Make sure scope mounts and bases are square and tight. Trigger around 2#.
If your scope allows you to aim under a .5 moa the rifle should do it.
I like the stiffen your stock post.

A lot of people won’t agree but put a cleaning brush on stick in a drill and use a light compound and scrub that barrel good. Shoot about 10 fouling shoots and start some group work. It should shoot.


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[Robinhood]

Consider a Ruger American or Tikka while you are at it unless you can find a deal on a SS Savage in the caliber you want then go for it. Savage triggers are becoming an issue for me. The Accutrigger is lipstick on a pig. If you build a rifle from ground up and have some Savage barrels laying around. ARC or Bighorn.

[Herby]

Thanks everyone for all the opinions. I believe the sensible option is to save my money on a new stock and go with a Rockite job. I have come to believe the rifle is what it is - an economy rifle that is really amazing for the price - not too heavy, not too light, great handling and consistently accurate enough for hunting. But... it is an economy rifle, meaning for me - you could crush the tin foil magazine with a bare hand, snap the plastic stock over your knee and probably twist off the plastic trigger guard while your at it. Think of the rifle and a Wal Mart pellet gun. Not a rifle the grand kids will be fighting over someday.

So, when finances allow I will go with a Tikka or Storm. But for now, plinking away with the Axis, which is actually pretty fun as is. I do hand load but honestly the best I can do is a group of 1.10" average - sure occasionally a 3 shot group of 0.5" but I shoot 4 shots to a group, so the rifle probably shoots better than I can hold and squeeze the trigger.

Happy shooting!

[prdatr]

Thanks everyone for all the opinions. I believe the sensible option is to save my money on a new stock and go with a Rockite job. I have come to believe the rifle is what it is - an economy rifle that is really amazing for the price - not too heavy, not too light, great handling and consistently accurate enough for hunting. But... it is an economy rifle, meaning for me - you could crush the tin foil magazine with a bare hand, snap the plastic stock over your knee and probably twist off the plastic trigger guard while your at it. Think of the rifle and a Wal Mart pellet gun. Not a rifle the grand kids will be fighting over someday.

So, when finances allow I will go with a Tikka or Storm. But for now, plinking away with the Axis, which is actually pretty fun as is. I do hand load but honestly the best I can do is a group of 1.10" average - sure occasionally a 3 shot group of 0.5" but I shoot 4 shots to a group, so the rifle probably shoots better than I can hold and squeeze the trigger.

Happy shooting!

Herby since you handload I would try different loads. IMR4064 is an excellent powder for the 7-08. I used it for quite a while in the early 90's in a factory Remington 700 with the Varmint Special Heavy Barrel. That rifle liked everything from 100 grain bullets all the way up to 168gr HPBT Sierra Match. The only one I could never get a to group were some 140 gr PMC's. Years later I loaded them up for plinking rounds in a 700 7 Mag and low and behold they shot right at an inch. I guess they just needed to be pushed faster. BTW, I always used CCI BR Primers.

[Herby]

Thanks, will try IMR4064. I have been using IMR4350, it happened to be what was on hand, using 120 and 140 grain Nosler Ballistic Tip and Winchester primers. I am by no means an expert and just recently taken up hand loading after many years off. Any advice welcome!

[wildcatgoal]

As far as I'm concerned, even if the stock doesn't help accuracy, it'll look way better. And sorry, but not sorry... that matters, too.

[HowardC]

Aye Gum, how'd you remove the Axis recoil pad? I don't see any screw holes in the pad. Is it glued on? -West

[charlie b]

FWIW, Savage accuracy checks on std contour barrels is based on a 3 round group. Thin barrel and heat do not go together.

My .223 kept getting better the more I shot it. It was one of the Walmart specials with a heavy barrel. Somewhere around the 300 or 400 round mark it became a 1/2MOA with good bullets, 1MOA or a little worse with cheap bullets. I'm at 2500 rounds through it now.

[Herby]

Aye Gum, how'd you remove the Axis recoil pad? I don't see any screw holes in the pad. Is it glued on? -West

Unscrew the rear sling swivel screw and depress the square tab on the topside of the stock, then the recoil pad will slip out. I slid an empty paper towel roll into the stock , then filled around it with Rockite, held in a vice at an angle to match the recoil pad while the Rockite cures, hopefully she all fits back together.

[HowardC]

Hey Herby:
Thanks for the info. I can't believe what a cheap setup it is. But, for $ 250, incl scope, what can I say....

I'm thinking of filling the whole butt stock with the Rockite. I see it's a water based/cured cement product. Makes sense with the name ROCKITE, sigh... I figured it was an epoxy filler. Wonder what the chance of shooting loose after awhile? The extra weight will help with 308 recoil. I lost my masochism years ago.

What was the purpose of the paper towel tube? Did you see any effect from curing heat, or any expansion of the stock when it set up?

-Thanks, -West

[Herby]

Hey Herby:
Thanks for the info. I can't believe what a cheap setup it is. But, for $ 250, incl scope, what can I say....

I'm thinking of filling the whole butt stock with the Rockite. I see it's a water based/cured cement product. Makes sense with the name ROCKITE, sigh... I figured it was an epoxy filler. Wonder what the chance of shooting loose after awhile? The extra weight will help with 308 recoil. I lost my masochism years ago.

What was the purpose of the paper towel tube? Did you see any effect from curing heat, or any expansion of the stock when it set up?

-Thanks, -West

West the Rockite seems solid once it dries, a little heat while curing but no cracks at all. The tube in the stock was just to take up some volume to keep the weight down a bit. I stuffed the void with bubble wrap. This is a hunting rifle and will be packed around a bit so I didn't want it overly heavy. Have not shot it yet but seems better balanced with the extra weight.

[Herby]

Well, when it's all said and done the rifle now weights a little over 8.5 lbs with scope.,, nice handling but just a little heavy for me. Should have used just a little less Rockite. The situation is for hunting public land in the West - I find a guy needs to get about 3 miles off the road or trail for even a chance of finding a buck.. That makes 6 miles round trip minimum, with a couple thousand foot climb most likely if you are in the Cascades. The distance is actually more important than what rifle/scope/caliber/ you have. So say you have a bad knee that little extra half pound means a lot.

Hunting from a tree stand on your Dads 100 acre farm in Wisconsin would be a whole different thing. This rifle would perfect.