Reply With QuoteJust measure the spring, and you should be able to find one on Amazon easily. I get my springs from there for setting up triggers.
This...LINK.
What is it:
i received a box with a trigger and instructions in it. Pretty simple. There is an outer housing. All pins are staked positively. Things move smoothly. The sear spring looked like it could rub on the housing, so I shortened it about 0.03” to prevent contact.
You just adjust sear engagement until it is safe. This is kind of hard since you want it to be short and light, but you want it super safe. I was whacking the back of my action with a heavy is his rubber mallet. It was safe when the sear wouldn’t bounce off.
I reset all settings and put the stronger trigger return spring in. It is super easy to get a safe reliable pull within all advertised weight ranges. The safety locks it up nice and solid. I added blue locktite throughout to keep things in place. It is really pretty flexible....my only wish is that there was a heavier spring set for field use.
Just measure the spring, and you should be able to find one on Amazon easily. I get my springs from there for setting up triggers.
Thanks nksmfamjp. I'm not convinced but there is still time.
Be careful buying on amazon. They sell a lot of counterfeits. So you may think you are buying a real spring, but it could be something else. Like a washer or screw.
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
I feel like my review is terrible....any pics or questions I can answer?
Im not complaining. At least you put some effort into it. If you think of something else or want to ad to it Jim might let you edit the post.
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
I rechecked my setup. I have it setup with quite a bit of sear engagement.....no way I can bump it off the sear with anything reasonable. I also have the heavier spring in it. I have about 12oz pull weight, but I think my scale is not very precise at these low weights. Feels closer to 1lb.
So I do have the Lyman digital on my wish list!
Thanks for Your review. But I didn’t buy that trigger for a 1 pound pull weight. I bought it to hopefully get half that or less. I’ll keep working with it and see how it shakes out.
Gren,
How low have you gotten it? If I would take a super short sear engagement, I think I could set mine to 5oz..I just can’t measure that low for now.
i was wrong....see below.
If I cock the bolt, put the slide on safe, take the slack out of the trigger, put the slide on fire, it breaks at 7 ounces when the trigger is pulled. If I cock the bolt and pull the trigger, it breaks at 8 ounces. Either way it still has creep, just not quite as much with the first example.
I have the sear engagement set as light as it can be without it firing when the bolt is closed. I don’t know how the trigger would react when set on a higher pull weight, because I paid My money for 7 ounces, which was previously 6 ounces, as advertised.
A trigger with a light pull weight is only suitable for Bench Rest or other target shooting. It should not move, move, move, finally fire. (creep).
I am looking forward to Jim Bakers review and hope the issues associated with this trigger can be resolved, because I believe it has potential.
I’m at 12oz. When back from SSS, I may try lower, but 12oz is about as low as I care to go. This is not at all close to the limits.
Well, I did some testing today with my trigger. I was able to get it to 8oz with the light spring. I really don’t like the pull at this weight, but I wanted to see the full range. IMO, you will want to pull the trigger 1000 ish times to break it in before trying to adjust in a light stable pull.
Max is 13.5 oz or the trigger won’t reset.
...and then easily dialed and locked back to my 12 oz setting.
How much did it cost? What exact model? What rifle did it go in? What was your goal for trigger pull force? What did you achieve? What does it feel like?Originally Posted by nksmfamjp
indiansavage, if You type Jard Trigger in the search bar and hit the search symbol, the answer to almost all of Your questions will come up in previous posts. Also, there is Jim Bakers review of the product, with some experienced comments added.
Hope this helps with Your questions
sorry about the late response. I have the $200 Jard trigger. It is in a custom Savage 12....the only thing Savage 12 is the action, but it was trued, timed and cut for AICS OAL.
My goal was a 16 oz trigger that was crisp. I did not achieve that, but my goals have changed a bit over time....I was ok at 12oz, but it seemed to have some creep. Fred at SSS reworked it some to loosen it up and time it to the action. This was pretty good. i don’t remember the weight.
Lately, I decided it had a bit more creep and overtravel that I wanted.....it was also dropping the sear on bolt close....so I readjusted the entire thing. I got it to a very crisp 7.5oz and no more issues. I need to shoot it, but it seems squared away.
As a side note, heavier pull weights make the trigger not want to reset. Lower pull weights take pressure off the third lever. There is a balance that must be achieved when adjusting that screw.
Safety works too which is nice.
nks, it’s encouraging to hear the issues with this trigger can be successfully addressed. If I could get a crisp, no creep break, at 7.5 ozs, I would feel I got what I bought. The question is, what extent do I have to go to, to receive what I feel I paid for in the first place.
nks, are You saying You got the trigger and the safety for $200 ?
Thanks for the update...GG
Was this a replacement for the ACCU trigger or the old style 110 ? I have played with my 110 t a bit but it is still a mystery when it will go bang.
Should I look at something other than the Jard ? $200 for another mystery is iffy to me.
Yinz all take a look at "Rifle Basix SAV-2" Older model's is the SAV-1.
Keeping my bad Karma intact since 1952
$227 in 2019nks, are You saying You got the trigger and the safety for $200 ?
It was a replacement for a Savage 12 accutrigger….mid 2000’s rifle.
I don’t feel it is iffy as it replaces all the iffy stuff.
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