Reply With QuoteI don’t have any feeding issues on my 3006 to 6.5 creedmore conversion. But others have claimed to. A 308 long action mag should eliminate the possibility.
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I bought a long action 110 to rebarrel to 6.5 CM. Got a dang nice rifle. Found a LA/SA in 308 today at my LGS. Here is my conundrum. The 110 in 30/06 is obviously a long action. The 308 is a long action with a short blind magazine. Anybody think I should anticipate feeding issues with the Creedmoor in the LA? Or would it be wiser to trade for the 308 given the SA magazine. New to savage rifles. Not trying to be a pest. Searched around a bit and found conflicting info. Thanks
I don’t have any feeding issues on my 3006 to 6.5 creedmore conversion. But others have claimed to. A 308 long action mag should eliminate the possibility.
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All I can really say is I've never had any feed issues with short action creedmoor. I rebarreled my savage 308 SA to 6.5 cm with shilen barrel, no issues and laser accurateOriginally Posted by 03fxsti
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Please ignore the previous post. I traded for the 308. But thanks for the responses.
Last edited by 03fxsti; 11-30-2019 at 07:17 PM. Reason: Forgot something
I am very anxious to oder my barrel. Sounds like there aint a nickels worth of difference quality wise between most of the top enders, but I’m leaning toward the Shilen
I bought a 28" Shilen Select Match bull barrel in 6.5 Creedmoor last year. It was my first barrel change. Put in on a Cabela's 12FV action, modified the stock trigger and in a HS Precision stock. I have barely shot it, but it grouped spectacularly from the start. I'm very happy.
For kicks, I ordered a 28" Criterion MTU contour in 6mm BR. That was last year. I just now installed it, also on a 12FV. I have not shot it yet. I was apprehensive on not buying another Shilen, but Criterion had the MTU contour, which I sort of wanted. Hopefully, I can shoot it soon.
Any of the quality barrels shoot better than any of us are capable. So Yes, you are correct.
I went with a Shilen for my build. Chromoly barrel infact, also in 6.5mm. Well, 6.5-08 that is.
You might also look at Bartlein. Frank hangs out in here and can give any advice you want.
The cut rifled barrels last longer than a button rifled barrel. Not just me saying it either. That’s feed back I get from ammunition and bullet makers using test barrels in controlled conditions etc...button rifling and hammer forging work hardens the bore of the barrel and this works against you in regards to barrel life.
Also the 5R rifling has been proven to fight bullet failure. Both Sierra and Hornady have confirmed that to me earlier this year. They have been using and doing testing with 5R rifling now for probably at least 5 years or more in some cases. How can you say? This is because of the odd number of lands and grooves. The lands don’t directly oppose one another and the helps fight bullet failure. No you don’t get it with a 3 groove barrel. Why? The lands are much wider in a 3 groove so you still have a portion of one land opposing another.
Also the bore uniformity in cut rifled barrels is more consistent than a button barrel. We also don’t induce any stress into the barrel blank and not to mention twist uniformity is always there with a cut barrel vs. a button barrel.....so I always say....
The straighter the barrel blank, the more uniform the bore and groove dimensions are over the length of the barrel and more uniform the twist and the more stress free the barrel is the more forgiving the barrel is going to be. No way around it!
Hardly anyone in BR is shooting a Shilen anymore. Nearly all of the top shooters are using our barrels. Pretty much top in F class as well and in PRS. That is saying something as well as now the Ko2M shooting.
Can other brands make a good stick? Sure but it’s the consistency from one to the next that is going to make it hard to beat.
Later, Frank
Bartlein Barrels
Thank you Frank. Do you have any information on nitriding and its effects on accuracy and longevity?
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
Lol. I’ve been calling mine 6.5x50. I hate bandwagons
Last edited by 03fxsti; 12-01-2019 at 12:11 PM. Reason: Typo
I’ll say no effect/negative wise on accuracy.
I recommend you properly clean the bore of the barrel after you get it back to clean all the scale out of it. It’s basically a heat treating operation.
I hear so many different things on barrel life. Some data I have from one manufacturer that we made barrels for got a little more life out of them (338 Lapua) but they took longer to break in/settle down. So what did you gain?
Also I’m hearing from one ammo maker that has a lot of time in testing with the nitriding/melonite treatments (300wm) that after about 250 rounds it’s shot out and gives them issues with pressure and velocities for that time frame as well.
Also the different types of steel SS vs CM steel they process at different rates. So the barrel can be left in too long for treatment and it actually has the reverse effect on barrel life if this happens.
So do your homework on it before getting it done.
I also tell guys we won’t warranty anything barrel wise if you get it treated. We have no control over what is being done so how do you hold the barrel maker liable if you have issues.
I did have my 260 barrel done but I shot it for base line for velocities and accuracy and thourghly cleaned it before sending it out. Then I had to scrub the bore to get it cleaned out before shooting. There was no accuracy difference and no velocity difference as some say. I’m no where near to shooting the barrel out and currently I’m not shooting any 260 right now either.
Off topic a bit BUT, I looked at your site [Bartlein Barrels] and didn't see any pre chambered barrels ?? just not enough of a market ??
So Frank, what’s the difference between a test barrel, a regular barrel, and a barrel somebody like Hornady or Sierra uses for testing if any?
I remember years back when very few barrel makers were building long 36” barrels, a guy in Texas by name of Wiseman would build them.
But he was mainly in the test barrel business as far as i know.
If you look at some barrel makers they have different grades of barrels. What your paying for is bore uniformity/close to min spec etc...
It doesn’t matter if we are making a test barrel, a bolt gun barrel for a 6PPC benchgun, F class gun, a hunting rifle we make all of our barrels to min spec. Which is -.0000”/+.0005”. It doesn’t matter if we are making a 50bmg barrel, a 50” long 416 barrel or a 6.5mm etc....we put the same amount of work into them.
Having different grades is BS in my opinion. Yes you can buy a lower grade barrel or a maker who necessarily won’t say they have different grades but let stuff go out the door that isn’t top quality. When buying lower grades of barrels yes you can get one that will shoot very good but you roll the dice. It’s the consistency from one to the next is what you want.
Hmmm... I have been dead set on grabbing a Bartlein through Bugholes, for my next rebarrel. But I gotta say, for a proprietor to speak ill of another is so very much a vile & off putting tactic..... I do believe you’ve just made up my mind to grab a Brux from them instead. Don’t think I’ve ever come across Norman of Ken spouting off about “nobody using such & such a product”.
That would be an Ariska (6.5 x 50mm). You want 6.5 x 49mm; or 48.8mm even
I shoot a 6.5 x 51mm (6.5-308 . . . aka .260 REM)
"They couldn't hit an elephant at this distance." Last words of Gen. Sedgwik
Put yourself in my shoes for a minute and really think about this. A barrel with a tighter/looser bore spec not only effects accuracy but effects pressure and velocity. A barrel that is tight/undersize by even .0005” I have data that it will drive up pressures 8-10psi. If this happens now you have a potential safety issue. A looser bore/groove barrel typically the pressure drops faster and usually you lose velocity.Hmmm... I have been dead set on grabbing a Bartlein through Bugholes, for my next rebarrel. But I gotta say, for a proprietor to speak ill of another is so very much a vile & off putting tactic..... I do believe you’ve just made up my mind to grab a Brux from them instead. Don’t think I’ve ever come across Norman of Ken spouting off about “nobody using such & such a product”.
So you get a phone call from a customer and the customer says....I had my largest bushing on my reamer and it just dropped in the bore. I think the bore is .001” oversize? Or think there is something wrong and sends the barrel in for you too look at and you find out it doesn’t meet spec. Do you want to take that phone call? If the answer is no then you will understand why I say we don’t have and or wants different grades.
If your ok with getting a barrel for less money and the bore is oversize and the gun will only shoot one particular bullet or load to 1moa and is really temperamental but it’s just going on a hunting rifle where you don’t need really good accuracy. That is ok for some guys and that’s fine.
Again though I don’t want the phone call where the bore doesn’t meet spec and the customer was expecting it to. If the barrel doesn’t meet spec. Bore and groove size wise....it’s scrap.
We get the question asked at times. Do we have different grades of barrels? The answer is no and these are the reasons for it.
Later, Frank
Bartlein Barrels
As far as tight bore barrels go....we are tooled up for some tight bore calibers. Some calibers are spec’d that way and it is a standard. Look at 7.5x55 Swiss. If memory serves me right the spec is .296” bore.
In some cases for the Palma shooters especially the older shooters they use/still want tight bore barrels.
I do say that if you are shooting good match quality bullets/ammo a tighter bore does not give you/or guarantee better accuracy.
You’re right. There are so dang many of them. 6.5x49 it is!
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