Reply With QuoteIs it a short or long action? What do you want to turn it into?
I currently have a savage model 116 and I want to make it a long range precision rifle. Can anyone help with what barrel I need and where I can get parts for it?
Is it a short or long action? What do you want to turn it into?
I get a lot of parts right from Savage, but also from northland shooters supply, Brownell's, and Midwayusa.com
It's a 300 win mag, looking action. I want a 1000yd rifleOriginally Posted by want2ride
A 300 Winchester Magnum would definitely qualify as a 1000 yard rifle.
How much money are you going to spend? Bartlein, Kreiger, and Shilen are what comes to my mind, but, there are some others like Schneider, Liljia, Hart, etc.
I would ask why not a 6mm or 6.5mm if you are 'only' going to 1000yd.
I want to spend around 2500. It will be over a year or 2. I already have the 300 that I want to build off of. 1000yd is my minimum I would like to push it as far as I can
The 300 WM will achieve 1000 yards and more.
Is there a specific goal you are trying to accomplish that requires a specific cartridge? Like a goal of reaching beyond 1000 yards as inexpensively as possible? Or reaching 1000 yards and more with an obscure cartridge?
As someone else posted, there are plenty of barrel makers.
To change barrels you'll need at least an action vice, go and no-go gauges, and a barrel nut wrench. Some people get by without an action vice. They use a padded vice instead. Some people take the opportunity to replace the factory recoil lug and barrel nut when they install a new barrel.
Good luck. Sounds like a fun project.
My main goal is to be very accurate. So at 1000yds I'd like to shoot consistently tight groups. And still be able to shoot 1400 or even a mile if I wanted. I don't want to hit a steel plate at 1000yds I want to hit an apple.
Using it as a single shot or a repeater?
Later, Frank
Bartlein Barrels
Set it up with out the factory nut and you can run a heavier contour. Set it up like a Remington. Either way you still need a action wrench and barrel vise.
If it’s strictly a long range gun go with a 28” or even a 30” barrel length. Help you get a little more velocity.
Silly post. Good luck hitting an apple 1st shot down the pipe at 1000yds plus.
It takes a marksman. A barrel and optics get you there. And a 220gn smk
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It will be a repeated shot
Well as a repeater than.....if single shot I would’ve recommended changing to the 300PRC. The PRC vs the WM on running them at equal pressures....the PRC will give you 60-75fps more velocity but you are not going to run the PRC with the long heavy bullets out of a magazine.
Also wanting to run it out of a factory magazine the WM will be a SAAMI type chamber length for the overall rounds. Realistic velocities with a 220gr bullet your basically max’d out at about 2750fps. And with that being said about 1200 and maybe 1500 yards will be max distance and shooting good groups/real world accuracy.
Past 1200 yards and even for 1200 for that fact you better be on your A Game and shooting moa or better groups and do it consistently. Reading the wind is going to be your biggest hurdle.
Anyone saying they are running a 210 or heavier bullet at running them over 2800fps is not a normal max working pressure load. I’ve got plenty of pressure test data at work on 300wm and it just doesn’t happen. I don’t care if you don’t get heavy bolt lift or the double click on the bolt and or flat primers etc...at 2800-2850fps. With a 220gr bullet out of a 26” pressure test barrel with a SAAMI chamber the pressure is running on average at 72k psi.
I would listen to Frank, maybe even send him the receiver to fit one of his barrels.
I should’ve added this to my post...
Two years ago I was getting very close to building my new F Class Open rifle. I was so close to doing it in 300 Norma but that would mean getting the Lapua mag bolt face. After all the work we had been involved with making 300PRC test barrels early on (even before the round was announced to the public) and seeing the performance data of it compared to the Norma and it (PRC) still used a standard mag bolt face I felt gave me more options. So I went 300PRC. That way I can do other mag calibers if I choose on that action.
The action I used is the Barnard Model PL. This action can handle up to the 338 Lapua for length. The receiver threads are also 1.125”. So my barrel has a 1.350” breech diameter x 5” long and str tapers to 1.100” @ 32” finish length. Besides having more meat on the bolt diameter (which is .944”) in conjunction with the larger thread and bigger receiver diameter at 1.456” (vs. a 1.350” for a Remmy or a Savage) that bigger receiver handles the heavier barrel weight better than the smaller actions as well.
Thanks for the nice comment CharlieB!
Think of this also...the ammunition makers and bullet makers/testers on the larger caliber rounds....are also using bigger actions. I know one maker are using barrels that are 1.450” in diameter. Just think of what they see and how they use the stuff in controlled conditions let alone us common every day folk pulling a trigger on a rifle at a match. They are using those bigger actions for a reason.
YW. One of these days my .223 barrel is going to be worn out. I will save up enough to get a barrel from you guys.
some guys are saying hornady brass sucks and only getting 3 reloads before primers loosen. I never used hornady so idk. How does the prc tune for load development?
1000 yrd for Apple accuracy the OP will need to have a very good rig and very good skills but i would recommend the 300 wsm long throated for a 210-215 berger. Can easily get 2800-2900 fps from a 26-28” barrel. I get 2800 now out of a 24 with no pressure signs. 300 wsm has quite the winning historyin 1000 yrd games. Its got a rep for being easy to tune loads for. Going beyond that may want more hp, prc and 30 nosler come to mind
As far as brass life goes with the Hornady....I'd take what you hear with a grain of salt. A lot of people are overloading the brass (higher than normal pressures) and that's what's killing the brass. it's not necessarily a brass quality issue. I hear the same complaint about Norma and I haven't seen any issues with Norma either.
When someone says well I don't get a heavy bolt lift or the double click or the primers are not flat etc...that doesn't mean that a shooter is not running the ammo beyond the max. working pressure.
I can give plenty of examples of Lapua brass being wrecked in just one firing. I myself on my 284win F class loads with Lapua brass the primer pockets where loose after 3 firings. Loose enough that I wouldn't use them again. Could I still use them? Sure but you could definitely tell a difference on how the primers seat in the case.
Mark here shoots BR. His 6PPC and Lapua brass on the low end only 3 loadings and on the upper end about 12 loads out of a piece of brass. For him it depends on conditions and how he loads at the match.
I've got three loadings on my 300PRC brass and have not thrown out a case yet for any reason.
Also guys measure case weight and complain about this or that brass maker. What most don't realize is that a .001" difference on the extractor cut of the case will easily effect the weight but I feel we should be more concerned about case volume and not necessarily case weight but the weight is easier to measure so that's what most go off of.
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