So my Daughter-in-law uncocked the bolt on her 110. What is the easiest way to cock the bolt with it out of the gun??
Thanks,
Bill
So my Daughter-in-law uncocked the bolt on her 110. What is the easiest way to cock the bolt with it out of the gun??
Thanks,
Bill
I usually press mine against the edge of a table and work it back into place. It may dent the wood a little though.
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^ this is it. Push the cocking pin back up the cocking ramp untill it locks into place at the top of the ramp.
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
Some you can do with a tough thumb...other times I use a block of wood or the end of my hammer handle.
Yup... push it against my reloading/work table. Easy as pie.
All of the above..
To some it will seem very hard to do.
An alternate method is to loosen the BAS screw on the rear of the bolt almost off (hanging by 2 threads or so). Then cock it on the edge of the bench/table (real easy). Re-tighten the BAS screw.
Pretty sure it’s a vent hole to deflect gas in case of a pierced primer.
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Front or rear baffle? There is no hole in the front baffle. There is one in the bolt head. There is no washer between the bolt handle and the rear baffle(unless you have added a spacer to lighten bolt lift. There is a wave washer between the front baffle and the bolt body(or between the Front baffle and the bolt head if you have had the radius removed from the bolt head and moved the washer to this position.)
The rear baffle has a detent that snaps into the groove on the side rear of the bolt body. It also provides pressure to hold it in place when it is removed from the gun and to stop any rattling sounds that take place when the baffle was not secured in some way. It has a horizontal though hole and a deeper vertical hole that houses the spring and the retaining ball. This should be kept clean and lubricated or it will rust. Replacement of the the steel balls can slightly improve the feel of bolt rotation if they have become rusted, pitted or damaged in some way. Careful when you are taking the old ones out.
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
It is the rear baffel. I will have to take a closer look at the hole. Supposed to be a spring and a ball in there that fits in a detent to stop the loose feeling? It has always been pretty loose/sloppy, but I see no way it caused the bolt to de-cock. I'll investigate further.
Thanks,
Bill
I cant see how it could decock the bolt. The cocking pin was pushed down somehow and it was forced into the uncocked position in the same manner as the trigger would release the firing pin to be fired. The bolt being decocked and the baffle topic are unrelated.
I simply read some post that I felt were conflicting or provided information that was incorrect so I did my best to clarify things.
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
I agree with Robin. The baffle not having the bb in place cannot de-cock the Bolt.
But you know what the “Mysterious HOLE” in the baffle is, LOL! Now just pick up the little spring and BB’s that go in. (I think there are 2, right Robin?)
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