Model 11 .223 light primer strikes

**KHawk** · 11-06-2019, 10:15 AM

This rifle is relatively new. I’ve had it probably 18 months, put approx. 150 rounds through it. I hand load all my ammunition, and have for the past 30 years.

I went through my normal load build ups, found one that groups well, loaded 100 rnds and put it in the closet, taking it out to the range to shoot 5-6, 5 shot groups. Alls well and normal. The last time out I had a FTF rnd, next shot as did a couple more. Next group had 4 misfires, but shot a couple more times from the FTF rnds. The next 5 shot group all FTF and I packed up and went home.

Day or 2 later I disassemble the bolt, clean and inspect, reassemble. Didn’t find anything out of the ordinary, wiped everything dry (used Break Free cleaner). Took the rifle out again, shot 2 rnds and started misfiring again.

Firing pin protrudes .050” or less, bolt head clean, bullet seat clears the lands, case was full sized once shot brass (all are full sized once shot LC brass), does not seem loose but haven’t accurately verified the clearance.

I’m of the opinion the spring has prematurely weakened. What do you guys think?

Keith

**Stumpkiller** · 11-06-2019, 11:50 AM

I doubt it is a weak spring.

What is the brand of primer? Do the rounds fire with repeated strikes?

Try neck sizing (back the FL dies off 1/2 to 3/4 turn) and I bet $1 it improves.

**KHawk** · 11-06-2019, 02:40 PM

I’ll give the neck sizing a try. I had a 400 piece bag of once fired brass given to me, by a friend, that I have already prepped and primed. The only brass I have now is fire formed to my chamber. I bought a brick of S&B primers at Cabelas that I used. I’m normally Winchester or CCI primers.

When the first FTF happened, I was able to reload and the round fired. The weird thing I noticed was the dents in the primers began to get lighter and lighter, until you could barely tell the pin had struck the primer.

I just find it odd that these rounds are suddenly not working after working flawlessly before now.

**Stumpkiller** · 11-06-2019, 03:16 PM

It's hard to diagnose such things from afar. The Savage has a plunger style ejector that tends to push the cartridge away from the bolt face - which can cause light strikes on a pin that doesn't extend much past the face. But 0.05" should be good. Another thing to check is how deep the primers are recessed into the case. They should be slightly below flush - but only very slightly . . . like 0.005" (dollar bill thickness).

I did a Google search on S&B Primer Height and came up with a couple threads on various forums that mentioned S&B had a shorter cup height than CCI and Federal (and some failures to fire). But I didn't find much in the specifics.

**KHawk** · 11-06-2019, 03:36 PM

I was trying to attach a photo of the light struck primers but didn’t see how to insert from my phone pics. The 2 that I shot yday were 2 of the previous FTF rnds. The other FTF rnd yday was one of the previous rnds as well. Savage wants me to send the rifle back for inspection and necessary repair, but I’ve never done that and don’t have the box anymore.

How long does that normally take?

**Fotheringill** · 11-06-2019, 04:14 PM

Welcome to the site. They know what they are writing about.

My experience with Savage service is that you will be looking at a minimum of a month. If you are not hunting with the rifle, I would send it in now, before all of the hunters come back from hunting season and blame their rifles for no kills and send them back to Savage, OR

Get a replacement spring (readily available from suppliers, OR

Invest in 100/box of CCI small rifle primers, load 20 rounds and see if there are FTF's.

What are you using to seat the primers?

**uncle-buck** · 11-06-2019, 09:37 PM

Originally Posted by KHawk

This rifle is relatively new. I’ve had it probably 18 months, put approx. 150 rounds through it. I hand load all my ammunition, and have for the past 30 years.

I went through my normal load build ups, found one that groups well, loaded 100 rnds and put it in the closet, taking it out to the range to shoot 5-6, 5 shot groups. Alls well and normal. The last time out I had a FTF rnd, next shot as did a couple more. Next group had 4 misfires, but shot a couple more times from the FTF rnds. The next 5 shot group all FTF and I packed up and went home.

Day or 2 later I disassemble the bolt, clean and inspect, reassemble. Didn’t find anything out of the ordinary, wiped everything dry (used Break Free cleaner). Took the rifle out again, shot 2 rnds and started misfiring again.

Firing pin protrudes .050” or less, bolt head clean, bullet seat clears the lands, case was full sized once shot brass (all are full sized once shot LC brass), does not seem loose but haven’t accurately verified the clearance.

I’m of the opinion the spring has prematurely weakened. What do you guys think?

Keith

Had almost exactly the same experience with a Savage 10 Predator Hunter in .223 rem.
The solution was a heavier Wolff spring for the firing pin assembly ($10) and a new bolt assembly from Midway USA ($120).
They both work flawlessly and I now have an extra bolt assembly if it ever happens again.

**ninner** · 11-19-2019, 12:02 AM

Have you bought a box of store bought ammo to see if you have any problems? That would be my first step. I’ve also started using a sizing gauge on all of my 223 reloads also but that’s to make sure they will run flawlessly in a semi auto, surprisingly about one on nine fail this test.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

**KHawk** · 11-19-2019, 11:00 AM

Originally Posted by ninner

Have you bought a box of store bought ammo to see if you have any problems? That would be my first step. I’ve also started using a sizing gauge on all of my 223 reloads also but that’s to make sure they will run flawlessly in a semi auto, surprisingly about one on nine fail this test.

I had about 7-8 rnds that were factory of various kinds that were given to me and they fired. I think my problem was FL sizing that pushed the head spacing back. By reseating the bullet in the lands, it held the case tight enough to ignite the primer. I still have a few hundred cases to fire form that are FL sized. Again, this solution was cultivated from input from you guys and I appreciate it.

Keith

**Robinhood** · 11-20-2019, 01:02 AM

Awesome Khawk. I found this a little too late to help you. https://www.savageshooters.com/conte...ng-Pin-Strikes

**KHawk** · 12-05-2019, 12:29 AM

Great information robinhood. I’m ordering the Hornady comparator.

Not being totally convinced, I bought 100 factory Winchester rounds from Academy. Had 3 FTF out of the 100. I saved 10 rounds to check when I get the comparator. I resized all the fired brass, trimmed and primed with Winchester primers. I had some of the fire formed LC brass that I cleaned and primed as well. Reloaded this cases up with the proper bullet depth, out of the lands. Total of 45 rounds. All rounds fired when I took them out today. After all I’ve checked and from advice from this group, this rifle has a head spacing problem. Since this is set at the factory, I will be sending it back. What is the best way to ship a rifle, I no longer have the original box.

**uncle-buck** · 12-05-2019, 12:43 AM

I ship long guns via the USPS using a cardboard box or round mailing tube. Put your rifle in a gun sock and pack it with old newspapers. No need to purchase expensive bubble wrap or styrofoam peanuts. Unlike shipping with UPS or FedEx, you are not required to declare long guns to the postal service. And you can purchase insurance or not, depending on what types of homeowners or firearms coverage you have.