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Thread: 6.5 CM fail

  1. #26
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    Moving it to the Marlin LA is probably a good move. Those throaters cut so easy that going too far is just as easy.
    The .008 cut off the breech end am assuming is to allow the Marlin to headspace (their bolt heads are so much deeper). If it were me I would only remove enough to allow minimum bolt head clearance (<.005 ?). I believe Marlin protrusion is .140 or so.
    Only .008 or so can easily be removed and squared with a bastard if a lathe not available. The web end of the case should not be expanding at that end of the chamber so getting it within .001/.002 square will never be noticed. Make sure to add a slight chamfer at the case mouth and polish that edge free of burrs.
    Also any final adjustment to increase the headspace can be also done without a lathe with your reamer & a tap handle.

  2. #27
    Team Savage Stumpkiller's Avatar
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    Looking back through the thread - he's checked his rifle with GO/NO GO gauges but is using brass fired in "his buddy's rifle" and then he reloaded it. Maybe he should be checking his buddy's rifle?

    My Lee-Enfield No 4 sets the shoulder 1/8" further forward on the first shot with new cases. That's the way it was made to allow muddy ammo to function. If I full-length resized I'd get two or three reloads. So I neck resize.
    "They couldn't hit an elephant at this distance." Last words of Gen. Sedgwik

  3. #28
    Basic Member Robinhood's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tobnpr View Post
    I re-read your original post, you said it was "cobbled together with parts".

    What is the history on the barrel? With a chamber defect that caused incorrect headspace and case separations for you, same would have happened for the original owner...

    Was it purchased used?
    Yeah, this is a problem with used parts.
    The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.

  4. #29
    Basic Member darkker's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FiveInADime View Post
    I had to have the breech faced on mine, as well. The breech bottomed out on the bolt face when I went to headspace. Then I measured with a depth mic and found I had to have .010 faced off for proper bolt to breech clearance. Many folks that were actually measuring found the same thing.

    Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
    And many of us who measured, didn't need to machine anything. I just think it's curious, the differences in stack tolerances.
    I'm a firm believer in the theory that if it bleeds, I can kill it.

  5. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by darkker View Post
    And many of us who measured, didn't need to machine anything. I just think it's curious, the differences in stack tolerances.
    I've had it happen with stock savage barrel & PTG bolt head. The Marlin case head protrusion is about .140 to begin with so putting a savage barrel on a marlin is most likely going to be too close right off the bat.

  6. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by tobnpr View Post
    I re-read your original post, you said it was "cobbled together with parts".

    What is the history on the barrel? With a chamber defect that caused incorrect headspace and case separations for you, same would have happened for the original owner...

    Was it purchased used?
    Yes, 99% of my stuff is used. It is a habit I got into when playing with Mausers. I like this barrel because it is sporter weight. I have several shot out heavy barrels that I could shorten up and thread/chamber, but contouring a barrel is 4 hours of back breaking HELL.

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