Reply With QuoteThanks Dave.
Very nice Dave, I'm impressed. Stock spring too? Or shortened?Originally Posted by Dave Hoback
Thanks Dave.
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
Shortened just a couple coils. And tested with no light primer strikes. But it’s temporary. I’m looking for a replacement chrome-silicon spring in a shorter length, but slightly thicker coils. And eventually I’ll get around to turning down the Ti rod I have to make a new firing pin, bolt head retaining pin & pin stop/adjustment nut. (Maybe)
But it’s all working well like this so I am a happy camper. Thanks bogboy. And thank you Robin.
Damn.....thats nice.
very smooth
Looks just like my timed and trued actions with my lift kit (replacing the loose 38 spl case with a more snug fit model). They are all pretty much 1 finger operation. I need to take a couple pictures of mine.
Not sure what firing pin springs Fred puts in the ones he T&T's, but I know it is not factory springs, as they all are flat wire springs.
Is the firing pin spring the cause of most of the resistance? Does it need to be as strong as it is?
Is there are reduced rate spring available?
I realize there are a few factors involved, but it would seem the tension from the firing pin spring would be one of the major ones.
Thanks.
Probably not. What is happening is the BAS is holding the Cocking Sleeve in position. The Cocking Sleeve captures the Spring on the rear of the Firing Pin and the Firing Pin stop captures it on the front end. As you lift the bolt the Cocking Piece is pulling the Firing Pin rearward and compressing the firing pin spring against the Cocking Sleeve. This spring force against a being applied to a rotating piece(BAS) that turns against the static piece(Cocking sleeve). The diameter of contact is just under7/16ths of an inch
Reducing the contact area and the drag by centering the contact point with a typical lift kit helps but it also adds to the spring compression due to the increase in space between the Cocking Sleeve and the BAS. This is why you must space the BAS or reduce the length of the BAS. This way you maintain the factory spring force and benefit from the lift kit.
So why not adjust the Cocking Piece or cut the spring. Simple: You don't want to affect primer ignition. There is a plethora of information on the topic if you look for it and things like the firing pin diameter and firing pin travel can affect the energy required.
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
I agree with Robin. But something you mentioned is also correct. There are indeed, a few factors involved. I looked, operated, tore it apart... and I did the things that seemed logical. I’ve repeated the smooth operation many times. I’m sure some doubted. Hopefully the vid dispels any disbelief.
Law for cutting the spring, it’s not my preferred method in modifying. Triggers for example. I don’t CUT springs...I replace them them with the correct length & spring rate I’m looking for. As I said, it was done in this case only, as I could not find an adequate replacement. I am now in the process of designing my own & having a spring manufacturer make them.
But won’t be complete until I have completed the the Titanium firing pin project. And I am still looking into a Tungsten Carbide surface of the BAS, for the ball bearing to ride against. I believe I have an idea for that.
Posting Permissions
Bookmarks