Reply With QuoteAfter you told me what you were doing I figured it out. I hope you got it working for you.
I like this!Originally Posted by Robinhood
Bart, The Bugholes bugnut was another option to work in your situation. $40.00 US. I think the one you have may look better but.....
This is what I'm up against. 1.25 OD barrel, 1.35" OD nut and receiver
I can't post a pic
Last edited by cowboybart; 10-25-2019 at 03:28 PM. Reason: Try to add pic
After you told me what you were doing I figured it out. I hope you got it working for you.
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
This is what the BugNut is used for, but most commonly for appropriately sized prefits or guys that need an easier switch-barrel in the field. It was designed to solve the max diameter "problem" for those that wanted a bull barrel contour in a prefit.
Since you needed to cut off the tenon of the 700 barrel anyway, why not just go with a shouldered barrel and forget about a nut altogether?
Because your 2nd proposal requires either a Gunsmith or the know how, and some quite a bit of tooling expense for headspacing.
Ummm...
OP said "I threaded it for a Savage and installed it".
He obviously has the "know how" and the lathe, he said he does his own barrel work. Easier to just shoulder the barrel IMO, instead of needing to conform to dimensions specific to a nutted barrel, unless a switch barrel is needed in the field.
That was my take away tobnpr. Sounded like he has the ability to machine. So why not buy a drop of 1.250" 416 hex stock. Turn the OD to 1.350". bore it to min thread dimensions thread it and counter bore to barrel diameter plus ten and then be done.
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
I'm an amature machinist. I can do outside threads, but have trouble doing inside threads. I originally threaded the barrel so I could sell it. After trying to sell it for 2 years, I figured I'd keep it. I deep chambered it in 6 PPC and will face the breech to get the headspace right. It will still have a barrel nut as I can't shorten it anymore w/o getting into the flutes.
To make good ID threads on a manual machine I make a gauge that is class 3 measured by wires. Always sanding down the crest of the threads to bring it back to the nominal minus .003" -.005". In the case of Savage threads minus .010". Make sure your nut goes on. Should be a very good fit.
When you cut ID threads you go about 90-95% of the finish(fish) thread depth. On 20 TPI there is no need to use the compound. Always sand the burr of of the crest or use the 16ER 20(I think for boring bars) threading tools. If you are really comfortable with your lathe and once you get the crest clean of burs. Go .001 -002 at a time until the gauge goes in snug. Cleaning the thread ID after every pass with scothchbright to make sure there are no raised burs. Make a few more passes on zero and try again. If need be, feed in .0005" until it is right. To get a good fit you need to be sure to eliminate burs pushed up by carbide tooling.
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
Be sure to sneak up easy when you get close. The reason they're more challenging is that just like boring you get tool flex, and on smaller manual machines the relative lack of rigidity stacks on as well.
If you don't have DRO's, consider adding them, esp if you have older iron like I do. Wear on leadscrews becomes irrelevant and you get exactly what you see on the display.
Like any other op, practice it and learn what your machine and tooling will do/will not do. Carbide and HSS will require different approaches.
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