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Thread: Parts needed toConvert a pre-66 Savage bolt

  1. #1
    Basic Member greyling's Avatar
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    Parts needed toConvert a pre-66 Savage bolt


    I have a pre-66 Savage I want to rebarrel. It looks to be cheaper to get a new bolt than fool with machining in the barrel to fit the old bolt.

    From what I can tell, I'll need a new bolt body, a new complete bolt head, new cross pin and new firing pin. Is that all? I won't need a new front baffle or firing pin spring or any other small parts in the bolt?


    It's a long action left hand bolt, so I am going to have to piece it together. Apparently nobody in the whole world sells a complete left hand long action Savage bolt. Savage sure won't.
    As an aside, Savage told me their Bolts were serialized and headspaced to the barrel. they dont serialize the bolts do they?

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    Quote Originally Posted by greyling View Post
    I have a pre-66 Savage I want to rebarrel. It looks to be cheaper to get a new bolt than fool with machining in the barrel to fit the old bolt.

    From what I can tell, I'll need a new bolt body, a new complete bolt head, new cross pin and new firing pin. Is that all? I won't need a new front baffle or firing pin spring or any other small parts in the bolt?


    It's a long action left hand bolt, so I am going to have to piece it together. Apparently nobody in the whole world sells a complete left hand long action Savage bolt. Savage sure won't.
    As an aside, Savage told me their Bolts were serialized and headspaced to the barrel. they dont serialize the bolts do they?
    I converted a right hand years ago with the parts you mentionef. You will need the small bolt head parts also, the extractor, extractor ball, ejector, their springs & ejector retainer pin. I can't recall seeing serialized numbers on a bolt either.
    Headspacing can be accomplished on all setups so their excuse is a non-issue as far as I would guess.
    There are so many inexpensive used actions available now it may be wise to consider one of them where parts availability I'd better. The pre-66 trigger is not bad & adjustable but if you ever need parts they might be impossible to find. The newer actions have aftermarket triggers available at reasonable prices.
    IMHO,
    Randy

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    FWIW, I have a pre-66 110 and the bolt is serialized to the action.

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    Quote Originally Posted by PhilC View Post
    FWIW, I have a pre-66 110 and the bolt is serialized to the action.
    Interesting
    Never noticed, I might still have old bolt parts for the one I had. Where were the numbers located?

  5. #5
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    Bottom of bolt body at rear.

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    Quote Originally Posted by PhilC View Post
    Bottom of bolt body at rear.
    Thanks for info, looked & found parts that were left.
    Found nothing on the bolt body nor the bolt head. The front & rear baffles and bolt handle were reused on my granddaughter's deer rifle but right now they are in a different state.
    Interesting though.

  7. #7
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    Mine is one of the first hundred 110s produced and SN is etched onto the bolt body but none of my other 110s are. Maybe it was only done the first few years...

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    Quote Originally Posted by PhilC View Post
    Mine is one of the first hundred 110s produced and SN is etched onto the bolt body but none of my other 110s are. Maybe it was only done the first few years...
    Sharpshooter will know if anyone does. If I remember mine was 4 digits on the action. The bolt body with the old cross pin hole direction possibly could have been replaced also.
    Mine was a "jeweled" bolt body also.
    Let's wait and see if Sharpshooter chimes in.
    Randy

  9. #9
    Administrator J.Baker's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mnbogboy2 View Post
    Sharpshooter will know if anyone does. If I remember mine was 4 digits on the action. The bolt body with the old cross pin hole direction possibly could have been replaced also.
    Mine was a "jeweled" bolt body also.
    Let's wait and see if Sharpshooter chimes in.
    Randy
    You might be waiting a week or so as Fred's waiting on a new computer since his motherboard finally bit the dust a week or so ago. Lisa's puter is still good for emails and order processing, but Fred's not allowed to touch it according to Lisa.

    I can't remember if the early bolts had the s/n on them or not, but I know all newer rifles will have the last 4 digits engraved on the top of one of the lugs on the bolt head.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Quote Originally Posted by J.Baker View Post
    You might be waiting a week or so as Fred's waiting on a new computer since his motherboard finally bit the dust a week or so ago. Lisa's puter is still good for emails and order processing, but Fred's not allowed to touch it according to Lisa.

    I can't remember if the early bolts had the s/n on them or not, but I know all newer rifles will have the last 4 digits engraved on the top of one of the lugs on the bolt head.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    This explains the response from savage to the OP. I just checked a couple of centerfeeds in the safe that haven't had a bolt or bolt head change and the last 4 digits matched.
    Good to know at a gun show (leverage ��).
    Thanks Jim

  11. #11
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    The early bolts had the last 4 numbers engraved on the bottom of the bolt body with a vibratory engraver. Back to the OP.....I don't know why it would be cheaper to replace the bolt than to just duplicate the old barrel.....I've done many.
    "As long as there's lead in the air....there's still hope.."

  12. #12
    Basic Member greyling's Avatar
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    I'd like to replace the bolt as it would allow me to have the benefits of a modern savage switch barrel gun. And I was quoted entirely too much to have my new barrel machined to fit the old bolt.

    so: new bolt head, all the parts to complete the head such as this kit http://www.gunshack.com/savage-bolt-head-parts-kit a new bolt body, firing pin, and bolt head cross pin should do it?

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