Reply With QuoteHmm...that is odd. Pull the barreled action from stock, and remove the SEAR pin, to remove TRIGGER/SEAR ASSEMBLY. BOLT will pull right out from there. Then you can further inspect all components.
This pin.
It’s a 6.5CM, 140gr Hor BTHP w/41.5 grains 4350, Hor 2xfired brass.
Have shot over 200 of this load fine.
Today at range fired a shot, went to load another round and bolt was jammed.
Bolt would lift, but not travel to rear to eject case.
Did the stock bump on the bench seat and bolt went full back and kicked case out.
However, now can not get bolt out of action. Can run bolt back in and close, but trigger not cocked.
Saw that firing pin was distorted. See pic.
Plan on taking action/barrel out of chassis to inspect.
Is it possible to disassemble bolt in action to free it up and remove from action.
Thanks, Red
Hmm...that is odd. Pull the barreled action from stock, and remove the SEAR pin, to remove TRIGGER/SEAR ASSEMBLY. BOLT will pull right out from there. Then you can further inspect all components.
This pin.
That's not the firing pin in the picture... it's the ejector, and it is supposed to be like that. Did you blank a primer?
"As long as there's lead in the air....there's still hope.."
Is the bolt release moving?
If not, that may be the reason the bolt can't be removed.
Did the brass still have the primer in the pocket?
If not, the primer may be stuck somewhere keeping the bolt from moving.
I had a buddy with an AR have that problem two or three weeks ago when a primer popped out of a loose primer pocket and somehow wedged itself into bolt carrier channel.
From your picture, the bolt seems to be scratched along the bolt face in an arc above the extractor.
Also there seems to be a lot of shavings everywhere, unless they are powder particles.
That's the part the would worry me.
41.5 gr of 4350, either H or IMR, should only create a bit under 53,000 psi pressure or about 84% of Pmax.
That shouldn't be enough to cause severe overpressure unless the bullet was wedged into the rifling or you have a really tight chamber.
Mu 12 LRP had a tight chamber, tight enough to cause overpressure signs with pressures of 37500 psi, but it never causes the kind of problem you're having.
Thanks for the reply's..
Yes ejector...
Case looks normal, primer intact
COAL is 2.805...
Bolt release only moves a fraction
When time permits will pull from chassis and look around.
You did push the bolt forward, pull the trigger and hold while pressing down on the release, right? Then when the release was fully depressed you pulled the bolt out right?
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
If the bolt release lever won't move all the way to the end of its travel, the bolt probably won't come out.
Does you rifle have an upper or lower bolt release?
I have one Accu-stock with a lower bolt release that sometimes stuck and wouldn't move all the way in, making it impossible to remove the bolt.
I had to jostle it multiple times to get it to release the bolt.
Turns out it had some gunk in its slide channel.
If the residue I think I see in your picture or some shavings from the bolt face scratch got into the bolt release mechanism, it may cause it to bind up.
If the bolt release is an upper release, I would be concerned that there is some residue or shavings stuck in the release mechanism.
The ejector in the picture is bent,factory ejectors are not sloped on the ebd,they are round,replacement ejectors are usually flat on the end.Looks like it got part of ejector sheared off
thats the sear pin
Bolt will not come out if safety is on.
^^^^^ Likely that when you slammed the butt on the bench to get the bolt back, the safety moved back too, keeping you from pulling the trigger to remove the bolt.
The ejector is the new design, not damaged or mis formed, to help ejection issues.
Back to the original issue, have you checked for a carbon buildup in the chamber just aft of the throat. This might be causing an over pressure situation due to pinching the bullet at the case mouth.
Banning a gun will not solve what is a mental health crisis inflamed by incendiary rhetoric on social and television media. The first amendment in this case is less precious and more likely the causal factor than the second amendment.
Thanks for the new tips, will check the safety ASAP, hope its that.Originally Posted by Texas10
That ejector is a design used on rifles with AICS mag systems. It is beveled for feeding issues, not ejection.
"As long as there's lead in the air....there's still hope.."
Yes, thank you.. I’m fully aware of that. Was how I envision it viewed by a person who lack all the terminology. But I just should have said Sear pin, as I circled it anyway. Thank you for your contribution, and edited.
BINGO!
When looking rifle over, again, the red dot was visible.
The safety was just kissing the dot.
Pushed it farther away and all is good again....
Again, thanks for the help....
Did you figure out why the bolt wouldn't come back the first time?
I just bought a 110 Tactical in 6.5.
Shot it 15 times yesterday, and had to fight with the bolt 6-8 times.
The handle would come up fully, but not back.
I finally gave up, and came home.
Not how I wanted to start my relationship with this rifle
When bolt is raised, and it can not be pulled back, it is probably a primary extraction issue.
You might take a close look at the rear baffle and the primary extraction ramp as it meets up with the bolt handle during initial extraction. The timing is important, and so is the amount of gap with the bolt closed. With an empty chamber, close the bolt and then open it SLOWLY while feeling for a tight spot as the bolt handle nears the top of it's travel.
As the ramp on the bolt handle come in contact with the ramp on the rear baffle, the bolt lugs are also rotating out of the abutments. If the primary extraction ramp is trying to pull the bolt aft before the bolt lugs clear the abutments, this will cause it to jam slightly, and this will be further exacerbated by a tight cartridge that's just been fired to the point it becomes very difficult to extract the cartridge.
Simply changing bolt handles, or rear baffles can fix it. So can grinding and polishing the ramp on the bolt handle or rear baffle to gain better timing and clearance.
I hope this helps. Let us know what you eventually find out.
Banning a gun will not solve what is a mental health crisis inflamed by incendiary rhetoric on social and television media. The first amendment in this case is less precious and more likely the causal factor than the second amendment.
With a loaded round, you can work the bolt with 2 fingers.
Once I fire the round, if I just raise the bolt, it seems like it pushes the baffle forward, and I have to beat the bolt back.
But if I forcibly do it in one motion, it will eject.
I agree with Texas10, sounds like primary extraction issue.
When the bolt handle pushes the baffle forward it must push it against the receiver just enough for primary extraction. A simple test with a feeler gauge (.010 - .020 or so) in between baffle & reciever will possibly resolve the issue.
If the baffle is pushing forward before the bolt is all the way up then it will force the lugs back against abutment before they clear as texas10 mentioned. Here very careful grinding is in order to achieve correct timing.
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