When I was out of commission for about 10 months my cousin had my rifles. I begged him to oil down the barrels occasionally but, not too much of a surprise, he didn't. There is noticeable rust now on all of them but the 243 is the worst. It is a model 10, I believe it would be considered the base model with the plastic stock and pencil barrel. Is rebluing the only option, or should I just live with it?
What is the torque spec for the bottom 2 bolts that holds everything together and is there a sequence?
Could you recommend any ammo that seems to work well in these guns? I know every gun is different but surely there are some that seem to work better and some to avoid.
Thanks for any advice.
Once rust starts it's almost impossible to keep it from coming back. I would strip and refinish but I'm very anal about that stuff, for factory ammo, I've always had pretty descent luck with hornady ammo.. opinions may vary:)Originally Posted by Mr.Snerdly
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Pretty much what Ted said. I will say though...have you tried 0000 steel wool and oil? This should take off the rust, and although it will also take some of the bluing, many find this adds to the “character” of the rifle. It sounds like you take good care of them anyway, so I don’t think rust would have a chance to develop with you oiling the barrel so often. Just a thought.
Torquing the 2 action screws can be almost a “religious” creed for some...with many steps which must be fervently followed! Savage recommends 30-35 inch pounds, and 40 for Accustock models. Good idea to snug each first, then torque the front to 35, and the rear to 15 or 20. Then see how it shoots. Shoot a few groups while increasing torque of rear screw a couple inch pounds at a time between groups. Almost always, higher accuracy comes with the rear screw torqued less than the front.
Ammo wise, any of the big names make decent stuff. Again, I agree with Ted...Hornady is a favorite of many. Some of the smaller companies, like Black Hills, can be even better...even getting close to hand loads.
If the bores look good, the oil and 4/0 steel wool will clean up the rust. If any pitting, you can either live with it or have it bead blasted and re-blued.
Vietnam Vet, Jun 66 - Dec 67
One thing you can do for the rust,if it's not to bad.Take 4 or 5 0000 steel wool,Use Hoppies # 9,saturate steel wool,and rub LIGHTLY.Do this every day for 30 days.Have seen barrels,firearms,that looked bad,come out looking Good.If you do a little each day,you will not remove blueing;just the rust,hope this helps
I swear there’s an echo in here at times!
Great minds think alike.
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
If you're not tied to a blued finish, have 'em Cerakoted.
You can get (orshould get) a good discount when doing multiple actions the same color (most of the cost of Cerakote jobs is time, not material).
The Elite series "Midnight" is magnificent- mimics a deep, traditional blueing job- is far more durable than hot blue, and cheaper as well. Not many shops do hot blue anymore because of modern coatings, and the hazards and hassles of doing blueing.
Especially for rifles exposed to the elements- such as hunting rifles- Cerakote is much better at protection against the elements than blueing, and doesn't require maintenance.
https://www.cerakote.com/finishes/E-110Q/midnight/
Pretty much what Ted said. I will say thoughI swear there’s an echo in here at times!
Yeah.
CeraKote is your friend.
Bought a 111 as a donor that had significant pits in and on the barrel, action was pretty good. Got the action CeraKoted Graphite Black, looks great. Barrel is a throw-away.
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