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Thread: Hello, just wanted to get started building a Savage and I need some help

  1. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Robinhood View Post
    Wasn't trying to be insulting. I asked a lot of questions and moved on to a 30-06 barrel that sounds like its not what you want. There is no doubt in my mind it will be an awesome build.

    No insulting, I need some feedback on what I'm doing, I take and sort it out. This way I can tune my building ideas. It's not going to be perfect, but it's going to be a good moose hunting rifle.

    My other rifles are specific hunting rifles for animals. A 45-70, 30-30, 30-06, .308, .22 long, etc.

  2. #27
    Basic Member Robinhood's Avatar
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    I have always wanted to hunt moose. I want to shoot one with my bow. Where are you located?
    The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.

  3. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Robinhood View Post
    I have always wanted to hunt moose. I want to shoot one with my bow. Where are you located?
    Ah Rob... You crazy kids today with your fancy TWO ARMS & bows, I tell ya what! LOL! Hey! That’s some kinda coincidence that your name is Robinhood, and you are into bows... what are the odds??

    Im betting he’s hunting in Alaska, Maine, New Hampshire or Washington. Otherwise....The Great White North or Scandinavia.

  4. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Walz View Post
    I don't know anything about Savage rifles, where I'm from I don't see much of them. I work a lot on Remington, Winchester, Colt, Ruger, etc.

    Thats why I'm asking about Savage rifles, to learn from input here and if the barrel nut is required so be it.

    I thought the barrel nut was a option since all my 50+ rifles in my armory are standard barrels, none are Savage. I've fitted a lot of barrels to actions so I'm used to the long involved process.
    In a sense you're correct, the barrel nut is optional on a Savage...it's that Savage builds their rifles this way from the factory.

    Flip the coin, most any rifle can use this configuration- and some have become popular in the aftermarket, including Remington and Tikka.

    Upside, with a few hundred bucks worth of tools- and no machine tool work, barrels can be installed onto a receiver and headspace adjusted by the nut.

    Downside that few talk about, is that your barrel diameter is limited to the ID of the barrel nut- can't have a true, full-diameter bull contour barrel that many benchrest target shooter prefer.

    I've not seen any evidence of accuracy differences based on nut vs. shouldered, and the floating bolt head design of the Savage helps mitigate some typical mass-produced machining errors (concentricity and perpendicularity precision).

    If you have the skills and equipment to chamber and fit barrels, no need to go the extra expense (if we're ignoring that time is $$) for a prefit, just buy a .30 cal blank- and chamber for your .300 WM. Doing the chambering yourself gives you the flexibility to cut it how you want it, and you can rent a reamer for a one-shot deal without needing to purchase one.

  5. #30
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    I'm in WA and judging from comments thus far he ain't hunting moose here (very limited opportunities, once per lifetime if drawn), ID is possible, AK higher probability, but I'm betting Canada or some other country.

  6. #31
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    I've found a 300 Win Mag barrel 100% blue with a muzzle break, and its NOS $125.00, exactly what I need.

    I've found a wooden stock and its NOS $60.00, nice condition, I'll have to seal it up inside and outside, with a Bid Casey Tru-Oil sealant to keep it moisture resistant.

    The receiver was $60.00 which isn't all that bad.



    I'm zooming now!

    I'll send out the receiver for bluing, protecting it, when I'm ready. I've got a master finisher that I've used on several occasions and he is the bomb. :)

  7. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by tobnpr View Post
    In a sense you're correct, the barrel nut is optional on a Savage...it's that Savage builds their rifles this way from the factory.

    Flip the coin, most any rifle can use this configuration- and some have become popular in the aftermarket, including Remington and Tikka.

    Upside, with a few hundred bucks worth of tools- and no machine tool work, barrels can be installed onto a receiver and headspace adjusted by the nut.

    Downside that few talk about, is that your barrel diameter is limited to the ID of the barrel nut- can't have a true, full-diameter bull contour barrel that many benchrest target shooter prefer.

    I've not seen any evidence of accuracy differences based on nut vs. shouldered, and the floating bolt head design of the Savage helps mitigate some typical mass-produced machining errors (concentricity and perpendicularity precision).

    If you have the skills and equipment to chamber and fit barrels, no need to go the extra expense (if we're ignoring that time is $$) for a prefit, just buy a .30 cal blank- and chamber for your .300 WM. Doing the chambering yourself gives you the flexibility to cut it how you want it, and you can rent a reamer for a one-shot deal without needing to purchase one.
    Is there an echo in here? Read my post #15. Yes, you can now use any contour up to 1.25” on a Savage! Bugholes fixed that!

  8. #33
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    Keep the ideas coming, I've got all of my reamers, barrel vices, no go gauges, lapping tools, a shit storm of tools.

  9. #34
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    I'm really excited to start this project build, finding parts that are cheap original Savage is a bonus, and having them in really good condition is even better.

  10. #35
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    The "Bugnut" does allow you to bolt up a larger major diameter barrel but the junction is still slightly weaker than a 1.250" barrel "shouldering" up it is exactly the same as the way Savage does it as far as strength goes. You will get some strength 1. 1/2 inches or so down the breach. If I need that i'm going with a large thread anyway and still butt it up. If I buy a 1.250" blank, Im not going to piss around with a 40 dollar lipstick on a pig. I am going to run it up to the recoil lug.
    The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.

  11. #36
    Basic Member Robinhood's Avatar
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    I thought you found a good barrel. Now you got a reamer. I think it is all coming into view.
    The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.

  12. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by Robinhood View Post
    I thought you found a good barrel. Now you got a reamer. I think it is all coming into view.
    I've got all my tools, everything, a dozen reamers, you name it I got it, when I headspace, I'm gnats on. I only use factory ammo, the highest shot available.

  13. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by Robinhood View Post
    The "Bugnut" does allow you to bolt up a larger major diameter barrel but the junction is still slightly weaker than a 1.250" barrel "shouldering" up it is exactly the same as the way Savage does it as far as strength goes. You will get some strength 1. 1/2 inches or so down the breach. If I need that i'm going with a large thread anyway and still butt it up. If I buy a 1.250" blank, Im not going to piss around with a 40 dollar lipstick on a pig. I am going to run it up to the recoil lug.
    Cool.

  14. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by Robinhood View Post
    I thought you found a good barrel. Now you got a reamer. I think it is all coming into view.
    You are just now seeing what’s going on here? I could call this one from a couple posts in. There are some questions a qualified gunsmith/builder doesn’t need to ask! Even a lowly home builder/DIY’er like me.

  15. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave Hoback View Post
    You are just now seeing what’s going on here? I could call this one from a couple posts in. There are some questions a qualified gunsmith/builder doesn’t need to ask! Even a lowly home builder/DIY’er like me.
    I never worked on building a Savage, so I'm a duck out of water.

  16. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by Walz View Post
    I never worked on building a Savage, so I'm a duck out of water.
    I'm assuming the barrel you found NOS is a prefit, since it's already chambered.

    For a shouldered barrel, take all the required measurements as you would with an M700 (including recoil lug, crush, etc), flat breech/no bolt nose recess.

    You still need a recoil lug and nut, the aftermarket "precision" ground lugs and nuts are only a few bucks more than the cheaper ones, lots of different manuf's...
    Jim @ Northland Shooter Supply is a good resource for parts and any questions you might have.

  17. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by tobnpr View Post
    I'm assuming the barrel you found NOS is a prefit, since it's already chambered.

    For a shouldered barrel, take all the required measurements as you would with an M700 (including recoil lug, crush, etc), flat breech/no bolt nose recess.

    You still need a recoil lug and nut, the aftermarket "precision" ground lugs and nuts are only a few bucks more than the cheaper ones, lots of different manuf's...
    Jim @ Northland Shooter Supply is a good resource for parts and any questions you might have.
    After I learned how the barrel worked, WOW thats easy peasy work. I'm used to doing everything, and this takes the fun out of it. Kinda like my Dan Wesson. The barrel is a OME takeoff from a new rifle.

    Between several different suppliers I can build the bolt for under a hundred dollars.

    The stock will get strengthened with steel rods, sealed, that will keeping it from warping.

    I have several scopes, bases, you name it. Its really going to be the cats meow.

    Again, as I said, I'll send the receiver off for bluing, everything else will be fairly nice and blued.

    The trigger guard will be steel and I'm knocking around the idea about the floor plate which one do I want to go with.

  18. #43
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    ^^^
    Do you have the stock in your hands yet?
    I don't know if this has been covered above (I'm lazy, and don't read dozens of posts), but stock/action compatability does get a bit complicated. Depending on the date of manufacture of your action, it could be an older "staggered" feed, or the newer "center feed". This affects the inletting, and action screw spacing.

    Is there a magazine attached to your action? If not, it's center feed (or, it's a staggered feed that's had it removed). The older staggered feed actions are "flat-back" (not sure if all were, or if there was any overlap) instead of round (only affects your scope base selection).

    Somewhere on the site is a good article explaining the differences, so you can determine if your stock is compatible with your action without modifications being required.

  19. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by tobnpr View Post
    ^^^
    Do you have the stock in your hands yet?
    I don't know if this has been covered above (I'm lazy, and don't read dozens of posts), but stock/action compatability does get a bit complicated. Depending on the date of manufacture of your action, it could be an older "staggered" feed, or the newer "center feed". This affects the inletting, and action screw spacing.

    Is there a magazine attached to your action? If not, it's center feed (or, it's a staggered feed that's had it removed). The older staggered feed actions are "flat-back" (not sure if all were, or if there was any overlap) instead of round (only affects your scope base selection).

    Somewhere on the site is a good article explaining the differences, so you can determine if your stock is compatible with your action without modifications being required.
    I've read about the two different ones, can anyone tell me what mine is?????

    Since I don't have anything on the receiver what would a: YOM 2007, Long Action, 30-06 be; staggered or center feed????


    thanks.

  20. #45
    Basic Member Robinhood's Avatar
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    Walz first post said it was a 2007 centerfeed.
    The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.

  21. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by Robinhood View Post
    Walz first post said it was a 2007 centerfeed.
    No centerfire, I don't know which one I have.

  22. #47
    Basic Member Robinhood's Avatar
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    MAKE: SAVAGE centerfire
    MODEL: 111
    YEAR: 2007
    SERIAL NUMBER: G671231
    CALIBER:
    TRIGGER: Accutrigger
    SCOPE:
    BOLT: TOP BOLT RELEASE
    Thanks to Jim Baker we have some hard data to go by.

    http://www.savageshooters.com/conten...azine-Timeline

    http://www.savageshooters.com/content.php?464-Savage-Magazines-Identifying-Centerfeed-or-Stagger-feed



    The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.

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  24. #49
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    Thank Jim by supporting this page. A membership is like 15 bucks or something.
    The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.

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    Been reading on the ammo feeding difference between years, this is great education. I have to admit this is going to be a lot easier build than some of my other firearms I've built.

    Of course building a "custom", non lawyer, Remington Rolling Block rifle of today, and using parts from the past, parts from the present has its challenges.

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