The dial is moa or mils. You tube has great vids. A scope with hash marks in the reticle make hunting easier in my opinion. Bullet drop data is available online and are pretty accurate if you have a chronograph. I prefer in the field real world data. I use a 4’x4’ piece of card board and “walk back” shoot it. Say your scope is MOA minutes of angle. Put your little bulls eye or target dot sticker at the top of the card board on the middle. Shoot and sight in at 100yds. Go to 200yds shoot again without moving scope dials. Say it drops 2”. Your dial would have to go up 1moa to compensate. But don’t move yet. Say at 300yds it drops at 3” then it’s still 1 moa to compensate. 400yds 8” drop. Then it’s 2moa to compensate. Say your at 800yds and it drops 60” then you divide 60/8 for 800yds and get 7.5moa to compensate.
I’m confusing. Let you tube explain. For every 100yds 1moa is roughly 1moa minute of angle. 100 yds 1 moa 200yds 1moa = 2” 300yds 1moa =3” 400yds 1moa = 4”
So preferably your groups only grow an 1” for every 100yds so at 500yds you should have 5” groups or better.
1000yd shot 10” group drops random number 348” from your 100yd zero then you divide 348/10=34.8moa
Here’s my personal dope chart. Data on personal equipment:
Good luck. If your scope doesn’t track or your rifle doesn’t shoot 1”@100yd life sucks.
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