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Thread: Model 10T-SR Chassis Ideas?

  1. #1
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    Model 10T-SR Chassis Ideas?

    New to forum, please forgive noob question (if this was covered in another thread, my apologies):

    I recently got a Savage Model 10T-SR in .308 (Cabelas) for my birthday (from my better half!) and I want to slowly work into precision shooting as a hobby. There are a few things I want to put on my "To-Do" list for the rifle - chassis, AICS-compatibility, muzzle device/can. I am looking for suggestions or pics regarding the best bang-for-my-buck chassis purchase. The rifle has the bolt release integrated into the front of the trigger guard, so if anyone has dealt with fitting a chassis to that, let me know. I thank you in advance for your input and suggestions.

  2. #2
    Basic Member Wolf's Avatar
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    First shoot the thing I bought a model 111 Factory 150 grain at 200 yards is just about an inch I put four in the same hole at 180 yards. Tupperware stock on a hot day you could twist it anywhere you want it did not affected. I wouldn't change anything that's just me might have had one in a million but it's mine

    Sent from my LM-X410.FGN using Tapatalk

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    Team Savage scootergisme's Avatar
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    Lot of guys on here are posting about the Oryx chassis. Search (upper, right corner) Oryx and read away!

  4. #4
    Basic Member DesertDug's Avatar
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    Oryx, MDT, XLR are the most common lower priced savage chassis, then they go up from there. I just got the XLR Envy 2.0 which fits both super and lower bolt releases. On the others I believe you just need to specify which format you have.

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    Not sure the Oryx can handle a bottom bolt release....but highly recommended if it can.

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    The Oryx DOES in fact fit bottom bolt release SA. This newer chassis made by MDT is a FANTASTIC less expensive option. MDT has many different to choose from. Each one is a great option in its own right. I use the TAC21. XLR is another with several options and just as good as MDT. At the upper echelon are the KRG & MPA Chassis, both running in the $1K+ range.

    What you should know of chassis is they differ in price based on features. EVERY one of the known high quality chassis, whether $400, 0r $1K+, will provide accuracy potential higher than even competent shooters are capable of. Every chassis provides a SOLID aluminum bedding, and perfectly free-floated barrel. My best advice is to look at various options, read up on and choose based on the features you want for the price you can afford.

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    I've got a 10T-SR in 6.5mm Creedmoor and it is good shooter in its factory Accu-stock.
    The stock already has an aluminum frame and is aluminum bedded.
    It is not like the 'Tupperware' stock on Cabela's 12 FV model which I also have.
    The 12 FV shoots pretty darn well with the 'Tupperware' stock. I have a .223 and a 6.5mm Creedmoor that I bought a couple of months ago.

    The 10T-SR is a pretty light rifle and will take some getting used to in order to shoot it accurately at long distances.
    Even though it has a reasonably stable stock, I still needed some range time before I was able to be consistent with it.
    While I went through the shooting-in period, I also found that its particular barrel liked lighter bullets than I would have chosen for really long distance shooting.
    My 12 LRP 6.5mm Creedmoor fortunately likes heavy bullets in the 142 and 147 grain range that are perfect for long distance.
    Because the 12 FV likes the same heavy bullets that I want to shoot at longer distances is has become my load development 6.5mm CM rifle for my 12 LRP with a heavy, HS precision stock that fits me perfectly.
    No use wearing out a good barrel testing loads.

    I would suggest that you find out how you shoot the 10T-SR first and get a feel for just how the stock fits you.
    That will give you a good reference point when you start to choose an upgrade for the stock.

    Long range precision shooting is a different beast than just shooting at 100 or 200 yards, as many of the members of this forum can attest, much better than I ever will be able to.
    But if you aren't already shooting very accurately at 100 yards and 200 yards, you'll first have to get that part of the equation solved before you move out to longer distances.
    Most ranges I know that have more than 300 yard capability make you prove your capable at 300 yards before they even let you qualify for the long distances of 600 yards out to 1000 yards.

    I would caution you about buying an upgrade stock before you have managed to prove to yourself that you can get your 10T-SR to consistently shoot tight groups at 100 and 200 yards.
    Doing that will get you familiar with what bullets and powder the rifle shoots best and how to load to get the accuracy you'll need to be successful at long distances.

    Rushing into changing stocks and barrels before you are familiar with a rifle is like rebuilding a new car to go drag racer before you learn to drive.
    I'm not saying your not already to make the change already, but until you know how your particular rifle performs, you'll be flying blind when you have to make decisions on what will work the best for you.

  8. #8
    Team Savage scootergisme's Avatar
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    Another thing to consider with a chassis is the hand guard. If you get a hand guard that wraps entirely around the barrel, you will have to mount your scope REALLY high. If you like your scopes as low as possible, then don't get a chassis that has a full, wrap around hand guard. I learned this the hard way!

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    I really appreciate everyone's thoughtful input. I will take the gun out for some rage time soon and will work on building my familiarity with it.

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