Model 10 Bolt problem

[goosedowner]

I have a older model 10 predator hunter in 22-250 that I have only shot about 20 rounds through. I took it out today to sight it in again and I had problems getting the gun to fire. Tuned out the rear buffer was moving and not letting the bolt close the entire way.
Anyone else ever have this problem?
Any idea on how to fix It?

[RustyShackle]

Hmmmm, possibly the detent ball is froze up and needs lubed?

Also check the rear bolt, make sure it’s tight.

I’m having a hard time picturing how the rear baffle is causing the bolt to not close entirely. Does it do the same thing on an empty chamber?

[goosedowner]

Empty or loaded and not every time. When it does happen I open the bolt and rotate the baffle a little and close the bolt again. I'm assuming the bolt isn't closeing because you can't pull the trigger.

[RustyShackle]

Is this an accutrigger rifle? Possibly it’s not the baffle causing woes, maybe the trigger needs adjusted? It might be tripping the sear when the bolt is being closed.

[Robinhood]

If the BAS screw is tight, you rotate the bolt to closed the position, and you have a fail to fire. Remove the cartridge and look at the primer. If the primer is not dented your accutrigger has tripped the sear and the safety blade has limited the travel of the firing pin. You need to adjust the trigger spring tension and retest..

[CFJunkie]

With my 10 FCP-K .308 I had a similar problem after a few 1000 rounds.
I had my Accu-trigger set at 2 lbs. and apparently the adjustment screw loosened with use.
Eventually, the safety tang on the trigger got very sensitive and any side pressure would lock the trigger.
An energetic bolt closure would trip the safety tang also.

The solution was to reset the trigger to 2 lbs. and put a drop of Loc-tite on it.
It hasn't recurred in over 2000 more rounds.