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Thread: Recrowning Savage barrels

  1. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Newtosavage View Post
    Good to know that somehow, with absolutely no training, I can't damage a crown any worse than the factory has.
    Most factory type rifles/guns as a good ball park number.....the cost for them to make the barrel and this includes the cost of the steel, contouring, chamber, threading, crowning etc...I’ll throw a number of $60-$100. Some makers do put a little more time and effort into the barrels and will have more cost into them.

    I don’t know how to post pictures here (think I have to pay a fee) but I have pictures of factory barrels where the centerline of the bore of the barrel isn’t even in the center of the barrel blank. It’s not a Savage either but is a factory barrel.

  2. #27
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    tex10.....reckon the 21.75 length was the overall length including the crown, or was it just the bore length not including the 11* crown. i kno this isnt much difference, only .075" on a 1" barrel, but it is a difference that matters?
    i hav read the article several times and pick up on sonthing new each time

    Quote Originally Posted by Texas10 View Post
    I remember reading an overview of the experiences gained in "The Secrets of the Houston Warehouse" by David Scott
    https://precisionrifleblog.com/2013/...ifle-accuracy/
    where Virgil King stated that for a 6ppc, the barrel "must be 21 3/4 inches long for maximum accuracy".

    Since barrel length has everything to do with harmonics, and some of us use harmonic tuners just for that reason, it's not inconceivable that you hit upon a better harmonic than the factory length barrel by cutting and crowning your barrels. In the end, I am a firm believer that anything you do to improve your confidence in yourself or equipment is probably well worth the effort expended and will benefit and add to your shooting skills.


    For entire article go here: http://www.angelfire.com/ma3/max357/houston.html


    Edit: I just re-read the above full article and would like to correct the 21 3/4" reference. That length of barrel did not apply just to the 22PPC, it applied to all the calibers he tested, .22, 6mm, and 30 cal.
    Every barrel he had made was cut to 21 3/4 inch and target crowned. Didn't matter what contour, it had to be 21 3/4 inch, and setting back a barrel to gain some life ruined the length requirement and would never shoot as well.

  3. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shortbox4x4 View Post
    It’s not just the brush but the hard carbon particles that can lay in the bristles of the brush. The hard carbon particles will scratch the bore more so than the brush. That being said if I use a brush I never pull it back over the crown.

    Also you get a gas cutting effect when the bullet leaves the barrel. This alone after X amount of rounds can wear the crown. This is why I don’t like a flat/sharp crown edge. We cut a 60 degree chamfer on the edge of the bore. Feel this helps the crown hold up better overall. Ever look at a M1 Garand barrel? 1903? M14 and even on the Gov’t test barrel drawings they all call out a chamfer on the edge of the bore. Some where at some point in time someone figured out something here years ago!

    Flat base bullets I’ll say are more forgiving then boat tails are but boat tail helps b.c.
    Agree. Plus, it takes literally seconds when that piloted 60 degree center tool goes in and the setup is a snap.

  4. #29
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    If you want to know if it is your crown job or the shortening of the barrel that is making the accuracy improvements, take a factory barrel and only trim off like 1/4 inch or so then recrown like you have been.
    If accuracy improves, then you might be on to something. If nothing changes, then it is the barrel being shorter and stiffer that helped them.

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