Pipe wrench then replace with a grooved nut
I just acquired a new 111 in 270 Winchester. Midway, USA has Shaw barrel kits in 35 Whelen and I want to switch out my 270 to the Whelen. My 111 has a smooth barrel nut and the Shaw kits come with a wrench for the grooved nuts. How do I remove the smooth barrel nut that's now on my rifle and should I order a grooved nut to replace my smooth one???
Pipe wrench then replace with a grooved nut
I bought this kit that comes with a wrench for both styles.
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/10...-savage-10-110
I have not actually used the smooth nut wrench, but I at least have it if I need it.
And I would replace the smooth nut with a grooved one myself.
I hadn't thought of a pipe wrench. What a great, easy and CHEAP way to go, especially since i already have one. I'll order the kit and a grooved nut. Want to get this done before elk season this fall. Thanks for the responses.
Keep the pipe wrench away from the recoil lug or you could cause yourself some problems.
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
You need this: https://www.eabco.net/Savage-Barrel-Nut-Wrench-Kit_p_14765.html
They're on ebay, but EABCO often has specials and sales.
The clamp bolt that came with it was a low grade piece of crap and snapped off the first time I tightened it down (wrench was still spinning on nut). I replaced it with a higher grade metric bolt, soaked the nut in PB blaster, and then it came off fairly easily. No need to destroy the smooth nut with a pipe wrench. In addition, some people have gouged the action and/or the barrel with a pipe wrench. $25 is cheap insurance, and then resell one of the grooved nut wrenched if you need.
FTR in 223, BA LE Tactical in 308, 110 Flatback in CBI 6mmBR Norma, Others
If you plan on going to a grooved nut, then just use a pipe wrench. Easy peasy. If you want to save the smooth nut, then smooth nut wrenches aren't expensive but can be frustrating. It took me about 3 tries to learn that I was over-tightening the bolt on my smooth nut wrench, and actually clamping the nut down onto the barrel. So nothing was moving. Once I lightened up the bolt torque, the smooth nut has been pretty easy to work with. I had a real "DUH" moment after a fair amount of cussing there. LOL
Thanks to all who replied. I'm gonna go with the pipe wrench and replace the barrel nut.
If nothing else you can wrap a few layers of painters tape on the exposed areas that you don't want to mar if you slip.
FTR in 223, BA LE Tactical in 308, 110 Flatback in CBI 6mmBR Norma, Others
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