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Thread: Alternative lightweight bolt handles?

  1. #1
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    Alternative lightweight bolt handles?


    I've seen plenty of "tactical" bolt handle options for the Savage 10/110 series, but I don't recall seeing any lightweight alternatives. Does anyone know of any? I don't mind the stock bolt handle except that the raised "checkering" is IMO rougher than it needs to be, if it's even needed at all.

    I was thinking of something in line with my Tikka bolt handle, with the drilled out hollow area to save weight.

    If there isn't anything out there available, then has anyone modified their own to smooth it out and lighten it up?

    Thanks

  2. #2
    Basic Member DesertDug's Avatar
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    saw this one today while looking through e-bay:
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/Savage-mode...ef10%7Ciid%3A1

    I thought, this should be good for a light weight build.


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    Of all the places to save weight, I don't get why people try to do it in the bolt handle... A bolt handle needs to be rigid to ensure you can open the bolt regardless of the situation. Get a stuck case on a rainy day one time and snap that sucker off.... All to save 1-2oz of weight....

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by LoneWolf View Post
    Of all the places to save weight, I don't get why people try to do it in the bolt handle... A bolt handle needs to be rigid to ensure you can open the bolt regardless of the situation. Get a stuck case on a rainy day one time and snap that sucker off.... All to save 1-2oz of weight....
    I don't see how a hollow bolt knob will create that problem. Tikka has been doing this for years with no issues, and this kind of attention to detail is a big reason those rifles are so popular. It's not worth it to a lot of folks, but a lot of folks don't pack rifles into the places I do either (which is why I go to those places. )

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    Quote Originally Posted by DesertDug View Post
    saw this one today while looking through e-bay:
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/Savage-mode...ef10%7Ciid%3A1

    I thought, this should be good for a light weight build.

    That's a good design, but way too large for a hunting rifle IMO. That sucker would get snagged on all kinds of stuff and never make it down the rifle scabbard on my Eberlestock pack.

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    You could cut your heavy steel knob off, thread it, and put on a lightweight aluminum knob.

  7. #7
    Administrator J.Baker's Avatar
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    Look around for older 110 bolt handles from the 60's and 70's. Some had a small round ball with a narrow band or knurling around it. The only problem with these is that most of them I've come across are for the earlier (1958-1965) guns where the "ears" or "tabs" on the back of the bolt body were 90-degrees off from what they are on the 1966 and newer guns with the current style bolt assembly.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Another style (my favorite) is shaped similar to a Hersey's Kiss. Not sure exactly when these were in production, but I'm guessing they weren't used for to many years because you don't see them often. Here's a few pic's of one I mocked up on my LH Axis just to see how it would feel and if it would clear the scope as I may modify my current Axis bolt handle to mimic this one.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    "Life' is tough. It's even tougher if you're stupid." ~ John Wayne
    “Under certain circumstances, 
urgent circumstances, desperate circumstances, profanity provides a relief denied even to prayer.” —Mark Twain

  8. #8
    Administrator J.Baker's Avatar
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    There's also this titanium option if you're a righty, though it's a little long and the knob's too bulky for my tastes - at least for a hunting rifle.

    http://lumleyarms.us/index.php?route...&product_id=75
    "Life' is tough. It's even tougher if you're stupid." ~ John Wayne
    “Under certain circumstances, 
urgent circumstances, desperate circumstances, profanity provides a relief denied even to prayer.” —Mark Twain

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by celltech View Post
    You could cut your heavy steel knob off, thread it, and put on a lightweight aluminum knob.
    If I already had the tap and die, I would. That's not a bad idea at all.

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    Quote Originally Posted by J.Baker View Post
    There's also this titanium option if you're a righty, though it's a little long and the knob's too bulky for my tastes - at least for a hunting rifle.

    http://lumleyarms.us/index.php?route...&product_id=75
    Thanks for that. I really like that handle but for the oversized knob. I may contact them and see if they have a smaller knob option. That would be sweet.

  11. #11
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    Even if you cut the knob and replace with aluminum, you'll only save 1/2 oz.
    "As long as there's lead in the air....there's still hope.."

  12. #12
    Basic Member Robinhood's Avatar
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    They say it is one piece. However there is a way to easily adapt one of their carbon fiber nobs if you have a mill and a lathe.
    The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.

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    Banning a gun will not solve what is a mental health crisis inflamed by incendiary rhetoric on social and television media. The first amendment in this case is less precious and more likely the causal factor than the second amendment.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Texas10 View Post
    Thanks for the link. That's very useful info!

  15. #15
    Basic Member South Prairie jim's Avatar
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    Personally I went the opposite direction.

    i chose a bolt handle from extreme hardcore gear, as I didn't care for the big ugly knob on my model 12 .
    i ensured that even though the diameter was reduced I still had the length for leverage. Savage primary extraction design requires a bit more effort than other actions, bolt lift kits are available although you should be aware that the rear bolt baffle slope should NOT be altered"
    i recently spent quite a bit of time studying this with a master rifle smith.
    what we did was first set the firing pin protrusion to .063
    next was to back off the FP spring to set the cocking pin to .080 off the bolt body
    then lightly debur the cocking ramp
    third was to mill off the top of the cocking sleeve the same amount as the thickness of the Stockade insert with the ball bearing.
    lastly re adjust sear contact to ensure no AD on bolt closure the end result is a bolt that manipulates smoothly without upsetting the rifle in the bags allowing a return to battery and remain on target.

  16. #16
    Basic Member Robinhood's Avatar
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    what we did was first set the firing pin protrusion to .063

    third was to mill off the top of the cocking sleeve the same amount as the thickness of the Stockade insert with the ball bearing.
    Jam up Smith.
    The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.

  17. #17
    Administrator J.Baker's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by South Prairie jim View Post
    Personally I went the opposite direction.

    i chose a bolt handle from extreme hardcore gear, as I didn't care for the big ugly knob on my model 12 .
    i ensured that even though the diameter was reduced I still had the length for leverage. Savage primary extraction design requires a bit more effort than other actions, bolt lift kits are available although you should be aware that the rear bolt baffle slope should NOT be altered"
    i recently spent quite a bit of time studying this with a master rifle smith.
    what we did was first set the firing pin protrusion to .063
    next was to back off the FP spring to set the cocking pin to .080 off the bolt body
    then lightly debur the cocking ramp
    third was to mill off the top of the cocking sleeve the same amount as the thickness of the Stockade insert with the ball bearing.
    lastly re adjust sear contact to ensure no AD on bolt closure the end result is a bolt that manipulates smoothly without upsetting the rifle in the bags allowing a return to battery and remain on target.
    Savage's don't generally have a primary extraction issue unless you were unlucky enough to get one of the bad bolt handles from a batch several years ago where Savage ground down/polished out a casting flaw on the PE ramp and took too much off resulting in no PE. What they do have is a timing issue which is what the bolt lift kit, sear mods and cocking ramp mods all address.
    "Life' is tough. It's even tougher if you're stupid." ~ John Wayne
    “Under certain circumstances, 
urgent circumstances, desperate circumstances, profanity provides a relief denied even to prayer.” —Mark Twain

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by South Prairie jim View Post
    Personally I went the opposite direction.

    i chose a bolt handle from extreme hardcore gear, as I didn't care for the big ugly knob on my model 12 .
    i ensured that even though the diameter was reduced I still had the length for leverage. Savage primary extraction design requires a bit more effort than other actions, bolt lift kits are available although you should be aware that the rear bolt baffle slope should NOT be altered"
    i recently spent quite a bit of time studying this with a master rifle smith.
    what we did was first set the firing pin protrusion to .063
    next was to back off the FP spring to set the cocking pin to .080 off the bolt body
    then lightly debur the cocking ramp
    third was to mill off the top of the cocking sleeve the same amount as the thickness of the Stockade insert with the ball bearing.
    lastly re adjust sear contact to ensure no AD on bolt closure the end result is a bolt that manipulates smoothly without upsetting the rifle in the bags allowing a return to battery and remain on target.
    That whole description is a recipe for disaster....
    "As long as there's lead in the air....there's still hope.."

  19. #19
    Basic Member South Prairie jim's Avatar
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    Nope

  20. #20
    Basic Member South Prairie jim's Avatar
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    I didn’t have a primary extraction issue nor did we alter the rear baffle.

  21. #21
    Basic Member South Prairie jim's Avatar
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    it certainly works well, I have no slam fires or AD , I still have a slight burr on the cocking ramp to stay in battery” I have full primary extraction as it’s untouched. My firing pin is almost the same as the factory measurement.
    there are several (bolt lift kits available) Nate , PTG, Grimstod, Rayhill
    How would you differ ?
    i’m curious

  22. #22
    Basic Member South Prairie jim's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Robinhood View Post
    Jam up Smith.
    And your qualifications are ???

  23. #23
    Basic Member Robinhood's Avatar
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    I don't have any. I have tried a lot of things and I will tell you that most of mine make me happy. If yours makes you happy then you win.

    If I could find my camera I would show you how to machine your bolt and make whatever size and shape aluminum bolt handle you want. Or if you want to weld a .875" ball bearing on the end of an extended bolt handle, I got that too.
    The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.

  24. #24
    Basic Member South Prairie jim's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Robinhood View Post
    I don't have any. I have tried a lot of things and I will tell you that most of mine make me happy. If yours makes you happy then you win.

    If I could find my camera I would show you how to machine your bolt and make whatever size and shape aluminum bolt handle you want. Or if you want to weld a .875" ball bearing on the end of an extended bolt handle, I got that too.
    I got ya,
    This particular rifle is Benchrest only and by no means am I suggesting any person modify any firearm.

    I liked to see any of your machine work, I’m always eager to learn anything I can about Savage.
    j

  25. #25
    Basic Member DesertDug's Avatar
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    A right then, we are back to light weight bolt handles!

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