Scope mounts: Model 11 Trophy Hunter

[Solid]

I recently picked up a Model 11 Trophy Hunter in 6.5 Creedmoor. It's my first rifle, and I'm excited for deer season. I understand I really ought to replace the scope mounts. Can someone recommend a good solution? I'm not looking for anything fancy. It just needs to work, and be budget friendly. Also, I don't own a torque wrench. Eventually I'll want to get one, but is it necessary to replace scope mounts?

Thanks in advance.

[big honkin jeep]

My old man always told me "If it aint broke..... Don't fix it"
Unless the scope is sliding fore and aft or moving around side to side or you plan on dropping the rifle from a helicopter and fast roping into the range, then the mounts that come with the package guns are an adequate match for the optics that come on them. They'll serve the purpose of hunting to reasonable distances and informal plinking just fine. I'd check to insure that the screws are tight before spending the cash on new ones unless you're going to upgrade the whole setup, glass and all.
There are much better mounts on the market but replacing package gun mounts unless you're going to upgrade the whole shebang is most likely frivolous in my opinion.

[Jester560]

I would recommend to remove all of the factorymounts, degree all of the threads and re-install the mounts using blue loctite. Other than that, the factory setup works just fine. If left alone, they tend to work loose under recoil. That is the reason why you need to break them down and re-install correcty.

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[Underdog]

The trophy hunter package has a decent scope, mine was a budget nikon but works just fine. The rings holding it on were really cheap, those got tossed in the trash. I replaced the 2 piece bases with a picatinny rail as I wanted more fore/aft adjustment on the scope, just my preference but the bases were fine that came on the rifle. I used a set of Leupold medium rifleman rings $20.00 at cabela's to remount the scope. So if your questioning replacing something with the optic mounting, go for the rings first as everything else is decent for general use. I don't have a torque wrench either, I just snug everything evenly and never overtighten and you'll be fine.

[Stumpkiller]

The steel bases are good. Remove and remount (one of mine was loose and I had to shorten a screw). I recommend Warne steel rings. I threw out the aluminum rings mine came with.

[Solid]

Thanks for the advice, everyone. It sounds like Loctite Blue is gonna be the best budget solution.

[Dave Hoback]

Like others I recommend leaving things as they are. Until you are ready to upgrade your scope. Which you will, EVENTUALLY! Is it the Simmons you’re rifle came with, or a Nikon? The bases & rings are fine for the stock glass...and vice versa. Stumpkiller mentioned Warne rings. And they are good. However, the Tactical series are their top of the line, and what I recommend when choosing Warne rings. But they do have an increased cost. Thing is, I would not spend the money on GOOD rings when you still have the stock 1” scope tube!! You will just have to spend the money again for 30mm or 34mm when you upgrade the scope. Which in time, you WILL! And while investing in a new scope and good rings, you will want to also invest in a 1-piece 7075-T6 billet base with Picatinny rail. And when it comes to top tier rings, you could go with looks, or honestly, just pin the names on a dart board and choose which ever you strike. They are all really good!

[wbm]

Bit of heads up. If you are going to use Blue Locktite on your bases, I would use slot head screws rather than the torque head.

[Orezona]

Bit of heads up. If you are going to use Blue Locktite on your bases, I would use slot head screws rather than the torque head.

Interesting....I've not heard that before. What is the theory on this idea. I'm not being a jokester.

[Dave Hoback]

WBM was referring to TORX type screws. The thinking behind it is the smaller they are the more easy to strip. Use the TORX screws that will be supplied with the base you choose. If for some reason you need to ever remove the rail, make sure to use a quality TORX bit...not the cheap ones made from CHINESIUM!

[Solid]

Like others I recommend leaving things as they are. Until you are ready to upgrade your scope. Which you will, EVENTUALLY! Is it the Simmons you’re rifle came with, or a Nikon?

It's the Nikon. I'm not an advanced enough shooter to be anything but happy with it. I just want to make sure I can hold zero well enough. I'm just working toward a goal of taking my first deer (or two) this year from a stand about sixty yards from a feeder. I realize that's not a lofty goal, but I'm really excited about it.

I live in Texas, so I'd love to try my hand at hog hunting at some point, and I guess I'll need night vision for that. But I'm not there yet.

[Stumpkiller]

Mine came with the Nikon 3-9x but I had a Nikon Prostaff 3 3-9x40mm on hand (larger eyepiece) and I swapped it out. I wear glasses and any eye-relief I can gain I take. For anything under 300 yards in daylight a 1" tube is more than adequate. I hunt woodlots and at dusk the hemlock stands can be pretty low light. At 4X I gather enough light for any legal shot ("official" sunrise to sunset for deer). Where I have more open terrain the 9X is plenty for deer (or occasional varmints). I walk in to where I hunt and also still-hunt a hill side so more scope is just more weight I have to carry. I think you'll like your set-up. Mine's a .260 Rem which is close enough to the 6.5 Cm to be twins.

I put the non-model Nikon on a single shot .223 I have and it is a good if not spectacular scope. Certainly works and holds zero.

[Dave Hoback]

That’s good. The Nikon supplied is decent glass. And the mounts & rings will work just fine for hunting distances of both of those game animals. People only use night vision optics for complete eradication of herds. NOT for hunting. I understand that in parts of Texas feral hogs have bone a serious problem, and need to be dealt with. But there is no honor in using night vision and shooting aimlessly at a pack of animals. Just my opinion.

[Solid]

That’s good. The Nikon supplied is decent glass. And the mounts & rings will work just fine for hunting distances of both of those game animals. People only use night vision optics for complete eradication of herds. NOT for hunting. I understand that in parts of Texas feral hogs have bone a serious problem, and need to be dealt with. But there is no honor in using night vision and shooting aimlessly at a pack of animals. Just my opinion.

Oh yeah? Hunting in Brown County, TX, and we know there are hogs in the area, but have never seen one. I'm assuming they're more active at night. There's no need for eradication on our land yet. Just hunting for meat. I assumed some kind of night vision scope would be necessary for night hunting, but maybe I'm wrong.

[Dave Hoback]

You are correct. Hogs are more plentiful in the evening...just as deer and most other game animals. But they are out & about during the day as well...just like deer! I lived in AZ for a time, and my buddy & I were always glassing for Mountain Lion. We’d always comment how much easier it would be at night with low light optics! But, night hunting is a big “NO, NO” there. Never did manage a lion, but we did cross paths with about a 30lb Bobcat. My buddy stuck a bullet through him. Same thing. They are more plentiful at night, but we tagged this one during the middle of the day.