model 10t-sr action screw torque specs?

[RN923]

Hey everyone, new to the forum, pretty new to shooting and new rifle.

I just purchased a model 10t-sr from cabelas chambered in .308, before taking it out I wanted to go over all the screws with my fat boy. I cant seem to find anything from savage in the manual and using the search here its looking like 35 inch-lbs for model 10's but is that with a wood stock, pillars, or the accustock thats on the 10t-sr?

I know you can gain or loose accuracy by tuning the action screws. So Id like to know whats working well for my fellow shooters on here.

Thanks in advance.

[Robinhood]

Something to consider. If a stock does not have pillars or an aluminum chassis/action block, torque will compress the stock material. If this happens, often the front action screw winds impacting the rotation of the bolt by dragging or blocking the bolt lug from turning. If your stock is all plastic i would at least try to find a washer to put under the screws to reduce the extrusion of plastic under the screw.

I think your on the right track with your numbers but again, success is relative to the stock material and if it has pillars. Good luck

[J.Baker]

I know the Axis owners manual states 40 in-lbs. on those stocks, but the 110-series manual I have doesn't have a spec in it. The actual value isn't nearly as important perse as consistently using the same value once you find whatever value it shoots best at.

[CFJunkie]

My 10T-SR has an Accu-stock with aluminum rail and pillars and I torque it at 40 in-lbs. to get my best results.
I've seen posts that recommend from 45 to 50 in-lbs. for their best results.
That variation might simply be the difference in the torque wrenches - some models are notorious for inaccurate readings.
One key I found to getting accuracy when torqueing is to bring both screws up incrementally to the desired torque setting by adjusting using 5 in-lbs. increments after the bolts get started into the pillars.
Tightening one bolt completely and then tightening the other might cause some issues.
I believe that incremental tightening gets the action to flatten without binding.

[RN923]

Thanks for the input everyone. Cfjunkie I think I’ll do what you said going with 40 inch lbs in increments of 5 as my manual also has nothing about it.

I also think your on the right track with the 10inch lbs variation. I’m a auto tech and I get me torque wrenches tested atleast once a year and those are $500-$700 tools so I’m betting 2 brand new wheeler fat wrenches would probably show different number never mind different brands.

[RN923]

Well I’m glad I check before shooting. Rear was about 20 inch lbs and from was about 30 inch lbs

[Texas10]

Here's a little light reading on the subject. http://www.accurateshooter.com/techn...torque-tuning/

[RN923]

Here's a little light reading on the subject. http://www.accurateshooter.com/techn...torque-tuning/

Once this sweet -30*c weather breaks I need to spend some time at the range! I need to break in the barrel on my 10t-sr, get it zeroed and play with the action screws on it and on my b22. That little thing shoots 5 shot 1/2" groups at 50 yards with blazer bulk ammo all day long. I just took it out of the stock for the first time the other day since getting my fat wrench though so I need to get it back to or better then it was shooting before.

[Fotheringill]

RN-

35-36 is what I read SOMEWHERE at the Savage site a while ago. That may or may not be the best setting for your particular rifle. One caveat with the FAT wrench- IIAC, the Wheeler only adjusts in 5 in/lbs increments. You might want to borrow an adjustable torque wrench that can be changed in 1 in/lb increments.