I’m in the middle of my first Savage rebuild. I bought a 110 30-06, top release, accutrigger, with a wood stock. My plan was to build a lightweight rifle so I planned on replacing the stock. Once I received the rifle the stock looked a lot better than I expected. So I decided to keep it. I ordered a Shilen 6.5-284 heavy spotter barrel for it. Yesterday I opened up the inlet to accept the heavier barrel. I ensued I have good clearance around the barrel back to the recoil lug. Next I removed a little wood for glass bedding. The stock already had pillars so I did not have to install them. This is my first bedding job. I mixed up the Acraglas last night and put it all together. This morning I verified that the epoxy was set and I removed the barreled action from the stock with a little effort. Got most of the cleaning done and reinstalled the barreled action. I thighted the front action screw and then the back. Then I loosened/tightened the front screw. I can see vertical movement at the front of the barrel. So I believe I have a issue with the bedding. Wha do I do now?
We talking a few thousandths movement or what? If it’s buggered, it’s easy enough to drill out some of the glass, rough it with 80 grit and go at it again. I would buy some pva mold release and this time tighten the action screws to 10 in/lb while the glass is setting.
I don’t have a way to measure it but it’s real easy to see the movement so I would guess it’s more than a few thousandths. Thanks for the advice.
https://www.amazon.com/Fiberglass-Ev.../dp/B00144B4EM
will make your life a lot easier.
Just out of curiosity. Both of you suggested a release agent. I used Kiwi polish and had zero issues getting the action out of the stock. Are you suggesting that the wax caused the issue? Maybe I used too much?
I have worked in aerospace composites for almost two decades. I know all the “tricks. Shoe polish, car wax, wax paper, whatever. PVA is about the only thing that’s gonna lay out micron thin and allow you the same tollerencex with no risk of interaction with the curing process. For a gunsmith, 8oz will last you hundreds of firearms.
The bedding will need to be re-done, but before doing so, you'll need to determine what you did incorrectly that's allowing the action to "rock" in the bedding.
Pics would help. Is the bedding flush with both the front and rear pillars?
Savages can be a bit more difficult to bed correctly due to the location of the rear action screw. Did you float the tang at the rear of the action, or did you bed it?
I floated the rear tang. The bedding is flush with the front pillar but not the rear. I did not put bedding compound around the rear pillar just down the side about 1/4 inch in front of the rear pillar to just in front of the recoil lug. It’s not a pretty job!!! Lol. I used Acraglas and it was too runny. Going to get some Marine Tex and repeat the process. I’m enjoying this! I feels like there is a high spot a inch or so behind the front pillar. That seems to be where it is rocking.
If that’s the case step one might be removing material before building it back up. Pictures would help. If it doubt, use some dykem to mark up where it is making contact. In a pinch a silver or gold sharpie will work.
Yea. I think me and the dremel will get started this afternoon. Marine Tex will be here on Wednesday. Like I said...not pretty...I’m trying to upload a photo but it keeps getting rejected. I will try to PM it to you
Stop!! Don't do anything. What you are seeing is par for the course for a Savage. The tilt is caused by the relieved rear pillar, and it will tilt no matter what when you loosen the front screw. This will not affect anything.
"As long as there's lead in the air....there's still hope.."
Well it’s good I went to church. That delayed me fro getting the dremel out. Ok...I will need to do some touchup either way. It’s ugly right now. Will do that this week. Thank you for the information
I think your problem is that you have created an "island" by only bedding around the front pillar. I'd do the rear as well. Put masking tape on the barrel to center it in the stock and either set the action with the screws or wrap it front and rear with elastic to hold it tight to the pillars.Originally Posted by Hsargent21
If you didn't do the pillars they might not have been proper. Wouldn't be the first time someone set pillars improperly. When I set mine I bolted them tight to the action and epoxied them in place. THEN I opened out the receiver and barrel channel and bedded the action. THEN I bedded the bottom "metal" as a third operation.
"They couldn't hit an elephant at this distance." Last words of Gen. Sedgwik
Stump killer...you could be right. I really did not like the look of what I had done so after arguing with myself I did get out the dremel and remove my mess. On this stock the action does not contact the rear pillar. This is the original Savage wood stock. Does anyone have a picture of this stock beded?
I keep attempting to add some photos but haven’t been able to figure it out..
Ok...got my computer out and got the system to accept one photo. This if before I removed any wood for the bedding job.
I came in late to the centerfire Savage game and I have no recommendations for that rear magazine catch and how to pillar or bed around it. I can see that causing some head scratching.
I guess you'd have to have it in place without the magazine.
When I opened up for the pillar clearance (mine are 1/2" aluminum posts) I took out so much wood that I had to make card "dams" to shape the pillar supports. (Everything coated in hard past wax and the wax allowed to dry overnight). But you can see it's a different problem. I defer too the folks who bedded their top bolt release models for the best way.
"They couldn't hit an elephant at this distance." Last words of Gen. Sedgwik
Would it be possible to leave the magazine retaining clip out and bed that area?
Modify the "L" clip by shortening the top leg so it does not cover the pillar.
"As long as there's lead in the air....there's still hope.."
I ordered some Marine Tex and it came in today. Just finished rebedding the rifle and clean up. How long do you recommend leaving the action in before popping the action out? I have seen as little as 4 hrs up too 24.
According to Marine Tex it cures in 24 hours at 72 degrees F.
I let things fully cure because if you pull it before it has hardened enough you may ruin the job. But some who use other products do pull while it is still slightly flexible. Being an epoxy it will link long before it is fully cured . . . but why risk it? Provided you used a good release agent.
"They couldn't hit an elephant at this distance." Last words of Gen. Sedgwik
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