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Thread: Experience with .284

  1. #26
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    I have tried anything lighter than 300s in mine, but I have them right at 3020.

  2. #27
    Basic Member Dennis's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by longrangeshooter1 View Post
    I have tried anything lighter than 300s in mine, but I have them right at 3020.
    Found my records and notes, 2,920 was/is my consistent speeds.

    Dennis
    [B][SIZE=3]Dennis[/SIZE][/B]

  3. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dennis View Post
    I would have to find my records, but close to 2,900 is ringing a bell. 2,850 to 2,925, somewhere in this area. I know the 160's are 4,400 plus.
    This is about where others I know are also with 300 gr bullets in the Edge.
    The 378 case or the 416 case both hold more powder, and even those struggle to get 3000 fps with a 300 using 30" barrels.
    My BIL has a 36" barrel on his 338x416 and his tops out at 3050 with H50bmg over an Ohler 35 chronagraph.
    Im using about 25 more grains of the same powder to gain 200 fps and throwing the case away after about 3 firings.
    As for hunting, in almost 50 years of strictly long range, I only know one guy (who's word I would trust,) who has shot a (buck) in PA at 1 mile.
    Shooting at a herd of doe and having one fall over don't count. lol
    And he did that using a 338x378 using a 250 gr bullet. He is, or was, a long time 1000 yd shooter, and a machinist by profession during his career. Needless to say, a meticulous guy. His claim is that the 250s are a superior bullet over the 300 due to velocity to at least 1500 yds. We found that to be true in my sons gun also as for trajectory. But his gun is more accurate with 285s or 300 gr even at closer
    distance.
    So why choose a cartridge needing 25 more grains of powder to gain 200 fps?
    Well I stated in an earlier post that I hadn't shot my gun past 1500 yds.
    But it has been shot further, just not by me, as I watched thru very large binnocs on a tripod as it was.
    Theres also sometimes more to be learned by just watching.
    Ive also watched on lots of other occaissions as others were being shot, which is what caused me to choose that cartridge.
    What were talking about here actually serves no real purpose for anything much other than entertainment.
    But when you come right down to it, that sums up most shooting activities.

    This is sorta like drag racing with guns. And as with drag racing, horse power always wins.

  4. #29
    Basic Member Dennis's Avatar
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    And as with drag racing, horse power always wins
    Agree, but the "driver / shooter" has a little bit to do with the accuracy, control, and speeds!

    I might try 250 grain bullets in mine just to see. I know a lot of shooters use 250 grain bullets.

    What speeds should I expect using 250 grain bullets? Powder recommendations?

    I appreciate any information anyone can contribute!

    Thanks, Dennis
    [B][SIZE=3]Dennis[/SIZE][/B]

  5. #30
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    Certainly the shooter would control accuracy, which is a reason I let somebody else shoot mine.
    It is also the reason not very many animals are actually killed at extreme distances, meaning over 1000.
    Note that I didn't say I didn't know anybody who hadn't tried at a mile or more in PA.
    Good news travels, bad news dosent.
    As for load data, where do you find load data for wildcat cartridges?
    As a rule it gets passed along among friends, or by a (competent) gunsmith who makes a specialty of those type cartridges.
    At best you might find some safe starting point loads somewhere.
    I can tell you what ive been told by people like Bruce Baer who makes a good living building these type guns.
    First, he will be selective over the parts used, and rest assured the gun has been test fired before you pick it up, or maybe while your standing there watching.
    He will tell you the max oal for the specific bullet he recommends you use in the gun. For different bullets, find the oal first.
    He will tell you the powder also and a starting point load.
    Go home and load 1 round, then another with 1 gr more powder, then others with 1 more grain, maybe 6 loads total.
    Go outside and setup your chronograph and don't worry about having a target, a dirt pile at 50' will do.
    Shoot each load over the chronograph, and note the velocity. IF, you detect a slight sign of pressure like a heavier bolt lift, stop right there. Back off a half grain and try another. What that accomplishes is that you now know the (max load) that gun will take with that bullet/powder combination. And you haven't spent much time or barrel to get the information. From that point, start looking for accuracy,
    not with charge adjustments, but seating depth changes, maybe 5 thou at a time. And do all the accuracy testing at 400 yds min.
    Who cares about dime size groups at 100 anyway with guns like those.
    With the Chey Tac I was told to stop when the chronograph read 3200 fps because that would be the accuracy node.
    Later he said well OK, now see if you can keep the accuracy, and add more powder which I did. But I really wasent gaining much velocity, so we stopped at 3250, but that can vary some gun to gun, which is why you test the way he advises.
    So you might find that slight tweeks in powder charge helps some also, but try that later.
    You will need certain powders to reach max velocity, so why fool with a bunch of others that wont get you there?
    Try other bullets and seating depths first, and if that dosent work, divorce the barrel or be happy.
    (Or let somebody else drive the car).lol

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