110s firing pin assembly
My early 110s ftf with winchester primers and factory primers. Bolt is intermediate length. Will a short action firing pin assembly fit (Will it solve my ftf problem The ftf occurs about 20% of the time thanks ed
More information helps.
Rebuild/clean your bolt assembly. Clean and run dry or use a light lubricant that does not thicken. Check firing pin protrusion and check head space.
If you are hand loading you may be over-sizing your brass by bumping the shoulder back too far.
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
Great advice.
If anyone has ever used WD40 on it in the past then that's a very likely culprit.
My Dad was in love with that stuff and used it on everything. Over time it turned to hard, sticky, and gooey varnish gunked up, and caused failures every single one of the firearms that the family inherited from him.
After total disassembly and cleaning they run fine now. Plenty of videos online to help.
Somewhere economical to start anyway.
Good luck
A good wife and a steady job has ruined many a great hunter.
Thanks I'll recheck my sizing die
Thanks I'l clean it this weekend Hope this is an easy fix
My 110s has a ftf issue Very light firing pin indentation in primers I bought 2 firing pin assemblies from Numrich Long action part #999090 and short action part # 142000B It seems the long action is to long and the short action is too weak(short?) I adjusted firing pin protrusion to .050 Did I order the wrong part or do I need a long action spring on the short firing pin assembly I'm at my wits end HELP!!
Why do you think you need to change anything? Understanding why you need to change parts is mandatory. Otherwise you will spend lots of money and work yourself up. Base every move you make while troubleshooting, by proving or disproving everything.
Potential issue #1, If your brass(from base to shoulder) is to short or your barrel headspace is too long the case will move, and when the firing pin strikes the brass will move forward buffering the impact causing light primer strikes. adjust your dies correctly.
Potential issue #2, If your firing pin was gummed up with dried up lubricants it can and will impede the acceleration and velocity of the firing pin causing light strikes. The firing pin protrusion is fine at .035-.040.
Is your over travel on your trigger letting the seer move freely allowing the cocking pin to get by? If the seer is dragging on the arc at the top side of the trigger this could be an issue.
Put all the original pieces back in the bolt. Set the firing pin protrusion. Set the position of the cocking piece. Finish the assembly.
Check head space. Reset if needed.
Go out and shoot. Do you still have the issue? Will the FTF rounds fire on a second try? Is there a primer strike on the primer cup. Is it light or is it normal? If it is normal you may have bad ammo or primers. If the strike is light move on to the next
With the barreled action out of the stock check to make sure the seer moves freely by operating the bolt release and dry firing. If not adjust the trigger over travel.
If all of this seams complicated and unnecessary, you need to take it to a gunsmith.
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
^^this
Thank you It works again Much appreciated!!!!!
What did you find that resolved the problem?Originally Posted by Edward#1
Cocking piece was set wrong Too igh in he slot
Good job on troubleshooting. I deem you an honorary Savage Smith.
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
Thanks Edward#1,
Your post is going to help someone else someday.
That's exactly why this barrelnut brotherhood works so well together.
Good info!
Robinhood's post was perfect. It is rarely a part, just screwing up as many of us are prone to do.
Approach the issue in a step by step manner.
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