Reply With QuoteHow far away from your eye is the eyepiece lens? There should be a "sweet spot" where you see minimal "scope" around the edges of the image, even at 9x.
I purchased a Savage 16 in .308. It came with a Nikon 3-9 X 40 bdc recticle scope. Whenever I increase the power greater than 3x the scope builds a black ring making the viewing area smaller. What am I doing wrong or is it just my poor eyesight?
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How far away from your eye is the eyepiece lens? There should be a "sweet spot" where you see minimal "scope" around the edges of the image, even at 9x.
"They couldn't hit an elephant at this distance." Last words of Gen. Sedgwik
Resting my cheek about mid length of the butt stock. Scope was factory mounted.
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Probably worked fine for the guy (or girl) any the factory. But you are not them and may have a different neck length and head shape.
I never trust factory base mountings to begin with. I disassemble the base and rings and put them on solidly and in the right place for me.
"One size fits most". But not all.
"They couldn't hit an elephant at this distance." Last words of Gen. Sedgwik
I totally agree with Stumpkiller,
The factory mounting is generic.
Each scope must be custom fit to the shooter & rifle. The scope must be moved forward or back to match your fit/eye relief with the rifle.
My guess that someone at your range would help you with this. Search online for "how to mount a rifle scope". There probably is U-tube videos showing this also.
The eye relief is shorter at higher magnifications, so you will have to bring the scope closer to your eye as you increase the power on your scope.
This^^^^^Originally Posted by olddav
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Jester
Like many have said, the scope isn't set up properly for your body. Crank the magnification to the max and move the scope forward just till you get a full site picture.
David
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Thank you for your advice. I tried moving the scope closer to my eye and it improved. Now the second question. Looking at my scope bases there is little room for adjustments. Does anyone make a single plate to allow the scope to move back? See attached photo. Thank you.
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Yes, you can get a 1 piece picatinny rail that will allow mor adjustment and better ring placement. I would reccomend getting one from EGW.Thank you for your advice. I tried moving the scope closer to my eye and it improved. Now the second question. Looking at my scope bases there is little room for adjustments. Does anyone make a single plate to allow the scope to move back? See attached photo. Thank you.
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Jester
I'll second the EGW scope rail.
Weaver may make a one piece base for a round back short action and it sits lower than the EGW rail. I have one on a long action that works pretty good. I also have an EGW rail on a long action and I had to add a piece to the stock due to the increased height of the rail.
Olddave is right.
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
I think you can get a longer front base. One that would over hang the front of the ejection port by about 1/8"-3/16th. The one piece base is definitely stronger.
Leupold bases are another option. Very inexpensive and don't raise the scope like a one piece rail does. Another benefit is the Leupold bases are windage adjustable so you can set your scope windage to mid range, then adjust the rear scope mount to bring POI into center. That way you will have full windage adjustment if that's the way you prefer to shoot.
https://www.cabelas.com/product/LEUP...CK/1998198.uts
Banning a gun will not solve what is a mental health crisis inflamed by incendiary rhetoric on social and television media. The first amendment in this case is less precious and more likely the causal factor than the second amendment.
Alot of scopes - including cheaper ones - have adjustable eye-relief on the near end of the tube, separate from the magnification ring - are you certain that yours doesn't have this ability? I have a cheap $160 Bushnell on my Savage 110, and it has about 1.4" of eye relief adjustment through turning the large end by your eye
Any idea if these will work on an Axis XP short action?
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Yes you can use the 2 piece for sure.
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Am I wrong or is all Axis action the same length (long action) regardless of caliber. If they are long actions then they will benefit from using a one piece base, allowing for greater adjustments.
Awesome!Not sure.... Would be nice
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I do not see any adjustment on the eye relief.
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The eyepiece is in a tube that tapers down. At the leading edge (the end away from the eye) there is a knurled ring (closer to you than the magnification ring). Hold the knurled ring and turn the eyepiece bell counter clockwise. The knurled ring can then be backed off (towards the muzzle) and you will be able to screw the eyepiece bell in and out to get a good sight picture. The turn the locking ring clockwise to lock the bell in place.
Note it will a also change the "focus" of the crosshairs so you can't get much change before it will give a blurry crosshair image. You don't want that. Usually the plan is to adjust the scope in the rings and then fine tune with the procedure mentioned above to "focus" the crosshairs in the image field.
"They couldn't hit an elephant at this distance." Last words of Gen. Sedgwik
Um that is the focus adjustment..... on all scopes
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
How do you eject? No joke intended. If you go with a rail, make sure the round is not going to smack into the bottom of the rail on ejection. If you reload, you might be spending a lot of money on new brass. For example, CZ's eject on a higher arc than any other rifle I have used.
Most, if not all, rails allow "clean" ejection, because of the bolt design. Some of the weaver style rails have extra clearance built in, which helps with top loading.
The one piece rail often makes top loading a little more clumsy, especially with the newer centerfeed magazines (the older stagger feed mags seem to load easier).
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