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Thread: Stealth Evolution... I might be retarded

  1. #1
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    Stealth Evolution... I might be retarded


    First time poster, long time lurker here. I recently picked up 2 Stealth Evos for students to use if needed. My question is regarding the optics on this thing. Without removing the full length rail, what kind of cheek weld are people getting with these? I have thrown on a few scopes with different mounts. Even with the scope 0.01 off the rail, and the PRS all the way up, the scope height is still way too high for me due to bore access. Had others try and same issue. Are we all just retarded bubble heads? I searched around and no one else seems to mention this.

  2. #2
    Administrator J.Baker's Avatar
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    Nope, not retarded - just a little slow since you didn't notice that design flaw before purchasing two of them. Soon as I saw the first photo's I knew that rail was going to cause problems because it forces you to use higher mounts just like on an AR10/15 to get the needed objective clearance. It's not as much a problem on AR's as the top of the rail isn't much higher than the comb of the stock, but on a bolt gun it's about 3-4x higher creating a major cheek weld issue.

    Another prime example of why you don't let the marketing dept. dictate product features.

    Good news is that Tactical Works has a couple products that might help you with raising the comb height a little on the PRS stock.

    https://www.tacticalworks.com/Saddle...HopticUSA.html

    https://www.tacticalworks.com/Mini-S...MSP-PRSCB.html
    "Life' is tough. It's even tougher if you're stupid." ~ John Wayne
    “Under certain circumstances, 
urgent circumstances, desperate circumstances, profanity provides a relief denied even to prayer.” —Mark Twain

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    I had previously shot the Stealth. No issues with them as they lack the front rail. I know MDT makes a stock that works, but I may just pull a mold and make a comb riser. I cannot believe more people have not said anything. BTW, we are talking it needs an extra inches, not mm. For those interested, bore axis center to scope axis center is 3.19" with a 30mm MED ring. The top of the stock is another ~ .5" lower. So call it 3.75" from top of stock to center. By comparison, Remington 700 is right at 2" and even a MSR is under 3".

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    Administrator J.Baker's Avatar
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    Like I said, you pretty much add about the diameter of the action in comparison to an AR-style rifle as in the AR the bolt goes back into the stock, not over top of it. That's one thing Ruger got right on their Precision Rifle that Savage totally missed the boat on with all three of their chassis models. Guess that's the difference between designing your own chassis rifle in-house (Ruger) and just slapping your existing setup into an aftermarket chassis (Savage).

    Love my Savage's, but sometimes they just really get it wrong and this is one of those instances.
    "Life' is tough. It's even tougher if you're stupid." ~ John Wayne
    “Under certain circumstances, 
urgent circumstances, desperate circumstances, profanity provides a relief denied even to prayer.” —Mark Twain

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    Not my most elegant fix but all is good now. Glasses up a 25 and 40 mm lifted riser. Sans NVG the 25mm works for the shooters we have here that are 5’4” to 6’6”. With the ultra high rings the 40mm riser swaps on in under a minute. As you said... shame on Savage. Shame.

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    Basic Member Robinhood's Avatar
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    Im thinking that this is pretty common on Chassis. Am I wrong? The XLR but-stock cheek pieces do not let you use lower rings. It is practicly a requirement to use extra high rings.
    The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Robinhood View Post
    Im thinking that this is pretty common on Chassis. Am I wrong? The XLR but-stock cheek pieces do not let you use lower rings. It is practicly a requirement to use extra high rings.
    Its pretty common if you drop your action into any old chassis. If you look at most chassis, they do not have a NVG rail. If they do they usually have the bolt on the same plane as the buffer tube/stock. On the EVO the top of the bolt is over an inch higher than the stop of the stock. Not throw on high ring, the 20MOA base and you are up to a scope axis that's 3" or more over the stock. Maybe Savage thinks we all have 3" between our eyes and cheek???

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    Have the Stealth Evolution and use the MPA 1.060 one piece mount for 30mm tube with SWFA 16x - up 13 clicks in the PRS and its a good cheek weld ... although I will probably get the saddle blanket noted in one of the previous responses.

    You can always take the top rail on the forearm off completely ... its just a few screws.

    All that said, I love my rifle after swapping out the extractor ...

  9. #9
    Basic Member Robinhood's Avatar
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    Pretty much the same thing in my opinion.
    The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.

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    That’s not a full rail chassis.

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    Basic Member Robinhood's Avatar
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    Brother, I'm sorry. I thought the issue was the cheek weld. I kept thinking the height of the scope in relation to the the stock was the crux of disappointment. I guess it was the thing you built to raise your eyes that got me going down the wrong path. Sometimes I miss the mark or don't pay attention real well. My bad.
    The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.

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    I think we are saying same thing. With a full rail you have to mount the scope 10-15mm higher. Couple that with a 20MOA base and an already bad design and the scope is up there in relation to the stock. Even with a small 44mm objective lens down on the deck you are looking at 3+ inches between the axis. With NVG rings it’s closer to 4”. Unless you’re an Ewok it’s not happening. Prone or decline barricade the scope ends up on your forehead... unless nub nub jub jub.

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    I bought mine planning on upgrading it, and tried to fix it to get by. Just couldn't live with the PRS or my fix. Now the PRS lives in the bottom of a closet. I may let it out when/if I build a Valkyrie or a 6.8 wildcat of some kind. I went with the MDT Stock (V5 short w/folder) as soon as I could. Lost the rail and the NV Bridge right away, in the first photo you can see that I taped over the screw holes. With all of the room I was able mount a spotting scope in 30mm rings. Love it. Sub MOA off of a bipod. Usually able to do 1 group close to 1/2 inch. 120 rounds down the tube so far so it's getting broke in and I so am I. It is a work in progress. Saving for a 308, and a PRC 6.5 barrels, and a FFP Scope. Building a case for it all to go in. Still haven't tried the Tripod yet...

    https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B9leVOqbozCQWlpBSzR6azdpZVNaM2pnRk52TmdiQnFVYmJZ/view?usp=sharing


    https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B9leVOqbozCQQnh5ek9EYThfRGJzTEVrMERqbU8tMkc1TGxF/view?usp=sharing


    https://drive.google.com/file/d/1VYW...ew?usp=sharing


    https://drive.google.com/file/d/13Nh...ew?usp=sharing
    Last edited by earlytom; 01-22-2019 at 11:59 PM. Reason: Added Photo Links

  14. #14
    Basic Member DesertDug's Avatar
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    Nice earlytom. How do you like the MDT but stock? Is it solid, or does it rattle in any way? Also what is the handgrip your using?

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    I really, really like the V5. It's much better than the PRS for the Stealth because the cheek piece raises up quite a bit higher, and well lets just face it the PRS just doesn't work on the stealth. The folder is solid locking, without a rattle or a wiggle. Glad I went the $ extra for it. The V5 Short for me (6'1") works perfectly because the folder adds LO. Even with the short/folder combo I still have LOP left. Honestly the V5 coupled with the thinner steel rail (20 MOA) by Xtreme Hardcore still leaves me with a couple of MM to go up with the cheek piece, I think I could even use a 34mm scope if I wanted. I did have to have the 'Savage' rail installed by a Smith because the Stealth uses different/larger mounting screws, same pattern. All together it was definitely worth the trouble and expense in my book. The rings are from Xtreme Hardcore too BTW.

    The hand grip is by Royal Arms Intl. I had to dremel the heck out of it to get it to fit. It took several evenings, it was tedious, frustrating and I would have to stop and walk away to keep from screwing it up. In the end it too was worth the PIA in the end. I like it a lot too, it feels really good on the tripod when standing just haven't shot it that way yet. I'll have to try that soon... It is good prone or from the bench.

    Taking off the NV Bridge gave me enough room for the 60mm Sightron and lightened it up. Though I am glad I got that big bad boy, so far its legs have gone un-stretched at the distances I am shooting right now, and its likely to stay that way until I can get back home probably. For me it's primarily a target scope. I would like to get their 6-24x50 FFP for hunting back home in Wyoming. I have a 3-9 and (2) 4-16s of theirs on other rifles. Very happy with them all.

    Really was surprised that even with this scope minus the NV rail, w/a Magpul Bipod, a thick padded HD leather sling and a loaded 5 or 10 round mag it is still under 16 lbs. W/bipod, empty 5 round, with scope and lens covers and no sling it is 14.5 lbs (just weighed it). Not to terrible to carry, and with the lighter scope, and wearing Drake's 20 inch .308 TiTan barrel; I'm hoping with sling, bipod and loaded mag it will come in around 13-13.5 lbs. I would be willing to pack that even stalk hunting for half a day anyways... I don't think even that long at 8000 ft, but heck my 308 mountain hunting rifle, empty, no sling or or bipod a wearing a 3-9 scope is exactly 8lbs. I will bet that the Stealth w/Drake barrel on, and both similarly outfitted there would only be about 3.5 lbs difference between them.

    When I have the action and new bolt trued, that I will have very nearly a custom switch barrel rifle with a custom case (I am building that myself) for quite a bit less $ than I would have spent for a true 'Custom'.

    Enjoy your Stealth Evolution if you you go that way or already have. Just know up front it will still need to do a little more evolving...

  16. #16
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    Or you can mill off the rail on front piece and use .92 rings for a perfect fit. I did it to mine.


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