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Thread: If you're building a single shot does it matter of it's a long or short action?

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    If you're building a single shot does it matter of it's a long or short action?


    I have a single shot stock and a stainless controlled feed short action. Since I have no magazine to consider, couldn't I chamber this for anything that will physically go through the port? Meaning I don't have to limit myself to short cartridges just because it's a short action.

    I have a box of 300 RUM and they will go through the port no problem. Is there another issue I'm not seeing?

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    Basic Member RustyShackle's Avatar
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    Ejecting a live round

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    Yeah, that could be a pain but a single shot that is always on the bench I can deal with it. I wish I could find a source for short action push type magnum bolt heads so I could convert from controlled feed. However, the lugs on this bolt head are longer than those on my other Savages so I'm not sure that even finding one would would work. This is the only CRF I own so I have nothing else to compare it to.

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    Basic Member Robinhood's Avatar
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    PT&G can help you. You can also machine the nose of a RUM bolt head to fit the short action bolt. I think the rum uses the same bolthead as a 300 winmag or 7mm remmag. Simply machine the back end of the the same length as a short action BH. If you use the WSM/SAUM head you will have to deal with the 1/8 inch difference in BH length. Screw that.

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    It looks like PTG does offer a short action bolt head in the RUM/WSM case head size that is a push feed. It is my understanding that all I have to do it remove the ejector from the action and that will convert it from controlled feed to push feed. I would then have a short action, push feed, RUM/WSM, single shot.

    Those bolt heads are not inexpensive but fortunately I have a spare SSS extractor/ejector kit on hand.

    It's amazing how this stuff works. I don't know why I messed with Mauser's for years. To do anything with one of those you need a lathe and a milling machine and oh yeah, throw in the gunsmith to run them. All I need with A savage is an action and barrel nut wrench and a go, no-go gauge set.

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    Basic Member Robinhood's Avatar
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    Correct. The standing ejector is a valuable piece so hang onto it. I lost mine and wish I could find another. I like the CRF.
    All I need with A savage is an action and barrel nut wrench and a go, no-go gauge set.
    Savagesmith!

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    Thanks for this idea. I agree the Savage action/barrel is great for us tinker types. Had a lathe for years but never got up the nerve to do any action/bolt work.

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    I started playing around with this and it's clear I'll need a new firing pin as well. The CRF firing pin is much too long. I expect the "short action" "thin" variety that are sold off Midway should work. So really the appropriate PT&G bolt head and matching firing pin are needed to get a short action, WSM/RUM bolt face, push feed.

    I've got most of the parts and what I don't have I just ordered. I'll let those interested know how it works out.

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    Basic Member Robinhood's Avatar
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    The CRF firing pin is much too long.
    Why. If external dimensions are the same why would it be to long? The firing pin is captured between the BAS and the nose of the bolt head. All short action bolt heads are the same from the nose to the cross pin. If you are looking at a Long action bolthead you are making a mistake. The modification is to make the LA bolt head nose the same length as the short action.



    For the sake of THIS conversation, your original bolt head is the second from left.

    The one you should be acquiring is the 3rd from the left in Long action magnum. the bolt head length on both of these is 1/2". If you look close you will notice a difference in the length between the cross pin hole to the top(in this picture) of the bolt head. You can carefully use a grinder or sander and make these dimensions the same. If you have a lathe or mill you could use that too. Once that is done you adjust the firing pin. It should be less than one turn if you got it close and it is flat/uniform.

    The other option is to get the short action Magnum and that will require you to get 1/16 more pin protrusion.


    http://www.savageshooters.com/conten...Configurations

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    I've gotten a PT&G bolt head that is short action, magnum face, push feed. Doesn't it matter that the bolt head is longer on the CRF than the push feed? It looks like that places the bolt face further forward as well, no? The firing pin sticks awfully far out. How much firing pin protrusion should I have?

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    I would discuss this with PTG

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    Basic Member Robinhood's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AbitNutz View Post
    I've gotten a PT&G bolt head that is short action, magnum face, push feed. Doesn't it matter that the bolt head is longer on the CRF than the push feed? It looks like that places the bolt face further forward as well, no? The firing pin sticks awfully far out. How much firing pin protrusion should I have?
    The PTG is probably .437 long where the CRF head is .500. The counter bore or recess where the firing pin sticks out has a relatively close tolerance and cannot be just a random length. The cartridge protrudes Right at an 1/8" plus. Therefore the counter bore must be shorter or it will contact the breech of the barrel. Usually around .115.

    All things perfect your firing pin will protrude about a 1/16th" more than it should in your case. You need to compress the spring pull the anti-rotation ring down so you can decrees the protrusion length. Start at 1 3/4 turns and recheck. This can be done more easily with the bolt head off and the pin taken apart.

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    Yeah, I can see that now. I have a firing pin gauge that I can use to set the firing pin protrusion exactly. I'll check one of my other Savage rifles and see what they are.

  14. #14
    Basic Member Robinhood's Avatar
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    It moves in increments of about .006" if I remember correctly. Somewhere around .040 is better than good.

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